Help with resizing 30-30

[Twotone]

Hi All
Started resizing 30-30 for my old 94 recently ( Lyman 173 gn cast GC bullet and IMR 4198) and up to now have been FL resizing, trimming to spec for the load I am trying out etc. I would like to know what methods you all use, anyone bump sizing the shoulder only and if so how do you set up the die to do this? How far should the shoulder be set back? I want to be safe in what I do.
Any other tips for reloading this cartridge or better powders to use and so on would be most welcome.

[JEBar]

I full length resize our 30-30 reloads .... the powder and bullet we prefer is discussed at this link ==> http://henryrifleforums.com/viewtopic.p ... tip#p50860 .... unfortunately, it doesn't appear they are available across the pond

[Mistered]

30-30 is a round that really requires FL resizing to original size. Trimming to standard length is a necessity (as it is with most rifle ammo) but the 30-30 round needs to be the correct size for proper cycling in the action. Also get a factory crimp die to avoid having to roll crimp the bullets. This will positively end any neck deformation we have ALL experienced when loading 30-30!

[Twotone]

Cheers,

[Ojaileveraction]

I bump the shoulder of my fired 30-30 cases back only a couple thousandths.
I used a Hornady Headspace comparator kit and L.E. Wilson case gage to measure my fired cases and then set my resizing die to set back the shoulder to were I want it. Proofing it with the case gauge and comparator.
This is specific to the rifle that the fired case came from.
I also use and Lee Factory Crimp die for crimping, but because an exact case length isn't as important when using one.
The Wilson case gauge has a min/mas length measure that I do maintain. Using the less than max loads I use there has not been to much case lengthening
I have two 30-30s now. One I'm using for cast lead only and the other for Jacketed.

[Twotone]

Hi ,
Thanks for the info. I am still a newbie to this, 30-30 especially. I was going to buy the hornady headspace comparator, have the base already that I with .223.

[Ojaileveraction]

If your reloading mostly plinking loads your brass may last longer not full resizing. When using closer to max loads full resize if any cases start to get hard to remove (sticky).
The Hornady Modified case and overall length gauge are handy if you have a hard time finding 30-30 style bullets or have sourcing issues.
Cheers

[ditto1958]

I have multiple 30-30=0 rifles, so I need to full length resize them. As best as I recollect, all I did was to follow the directions that came with my Lee die set, and I have never had an issue. Some of my brass stretches and needs trimming, while some does not. I have yet to figure out why that is.

[JEBar]

I have multiple 30-30=0 rifles, so I need to full length resize them. As best as I recollect, all I did was to follow the directions that came with my Lee die set, and I have never had an issue. Some of my brass stretches and needs trimming, while some does not. I have yet to figure out why that is.

I have bunches of 30-30 Winchester brass from back in the mid to late 60's .... I also have new 30-30 Winchester, Remington, and Hornady brass .... there is a definite difference in the thickness of the casing walls and a corresponding increase in the stiffness .... I honestly haven't figured out which is better .... I do know that when the 60's vintage brass goes, it goes .... the case cracks and leaves no doubt whatsoever

[Ojaileveraction]

Thicker cases can mean higher pressures from less case capacity.
The persnickity will measure and sort . And there is some info on the capacity of different brands on the Web.
I'm not a sorter. I tried keeping tabs on how many times cases had been shot but failed at that fairly quickly.
I was given 50 or so Nickle cases and I keep those separate, never used them, someone told me that's what take hunting because of some intrinsic quality of nickel cases. Can't remember what it was.

[ditto1958]

Thicker cases can mean higher pressures from less case capacity.
The persnickity will measure and sort . And there is some info on the capacity of different brands on the Web.
I'm not a sorter. I tried keeping tabs on how many times cases had been shot but failed at that fairly quickly.
I was given 50 or so Nickle cases and I keep those separate, never used them, someone told me that's what take hunting because of some intrinsic quality of nickel cases. Can't remember what it was.

Unless someone else here actually knows what they’re talking about (in which case, they should feel free to correct me), I’m not at all sure what the value is in making rifle ammo with nickel cases. My understanding of the main reason it’s used for defensive handgun ammo is that it doesn’t oxidize like brass does. It stays nice and smooth and shiny when carried around in a holster.

I have a sneaking suspicion that with high end hunting ammo, they use nickel plated brass because it looks cool.

[Mistered]

My understanding of the main reason it’s used for defensive handgun ammo is that it doesn’t oxidize like brass does. It stays nice and smooth and shiny when carried around in a holster.

This seems to be the only real reason. Personally I hate the stuff and do not like the way it 'feels' going through the sizing die but I have a lot of nickle .38 & .357 cases so I'll have to use them - until they crack like all nickle cases do prematurely.

[Ojaileveraction]

Twotone,
So I re-read your Original Post.
Using your headspace comparator you measure a fully resized case and a fired case. That will give you some idea of how much resizing the cases are going through. From there you'll have to decide how much to to move your die.
Starting with a full resize setup, the holder touching the die, turn the die a quarter turn (counter clockwise) UP. Size a case, measure, repeat until correct.
I'm sure there is someone that can tell you that one turn of the die is equal so many thousandths.
When I started I just neck sized cases and after a certain amount of reloads the cases would stick. Then I started bumping the shoulder and have not had that problem again.
4198 powder is a good powder for cast lead bullets.

[Twotone]

Thank you for the wealth of information everybody. Happy christmas to you all and a joyful new year!

[Ojaileveraction]

As it happens I've reset my 30-30 die back to a full resize.
I added another 30-30 (stray cats and rifles). With three I feel I'll be more efficient full resizing for all of them, at least until I see if there much difference in their head-spacing.

[bandit1250]

My understanding of the main reason it’s used for defensive handgun ammo is that it doesn’t oxidize like brass does. It stays nice and smooth and shiny when carried around in a holster.

This seems to be the only real reason. Personally I hate the stuff and do not like the way it 'feels' going through the sizing die but I have a lot of nickle .38 & .357 cases so I'll have to use them - until they crack like all nickle cases do prematurely.

I use nickel plated cases in my Sako 222 Remington for identification purpose. I have four 223 Remington rifles in my safe and the one 222 that I will never part with and those two rounds can be mistaken for one another on a quick glance. I had a 222 round get mixed in my 223 ammo one summer in Montana shooting prairie dogs when one of the guys upset the ammo in the back of the pickup. The result from that was particles of brass in my face when the 222 ruptured in the 223 over size chamber. From then on it is nickel plated brass for the 222 for that reason. I don't feel there is a "need" for the nickel cases but for my case it is a little insurance that may not happen again. I have 12 new boxes of the much sought after Federal 222 Match cases and it is also nickel plated. The couple hundred I am using now are Remington. I have no problems cracking cases but the 222 is well known for exceptional brass longevity with dies adjusted to control head space to a minimum and lubing the necks well when sizing.

[steider]

Nickel cases don’t tarnish leather on my single shot.

[Rifletom]

I pretty much do what JEBar does. When they need trimming, trim. Are you limited to what powders you can get there?
BTW, Seems like I know that Resonater in your avatar. On any guitar forums? I hang around "Squier Talk" a bit. On the Telecaster threads.

Dang! Didn't realize this thread was a year old. Sheesh!

[ESquared]

I'm glad this thread re-surfaced, as I'm just jumping into reloading and 30-30 will be my first rifle reload (will get my sea legs with 357 Mag first). While I have picked up a hundred or so "once fired" brass online (that looks very clean, BTW), what I intend to start with is my own once-fired brass that has been shot in my H009CCH. I'll have both brass and nickel-plated (which came from Winchester Silvertip) from my own stash.

Anyway, based on my research, my plan is to size this "once fired by only me" brass primarily at the shoulder, since, as i understand it, it's been expanded to fit my chamber exactly. To do so, I've picked up a Whidden Gunworks shoulder bump gauge, which is what I'll use to set the shoulder length (probably -.002") in the resizing die. Once I dial that in, I'll check case length and trim if necessary. Also have a Wilson go/no-go gauge.

Does this sound like a logical plan for "captive brass," or am I missing something? Seems pretty simple and straightforward, and pretty low tech, but I didn't make it up on my own (I don't think).

[JEBar]

I'd suggest you load a few and see how well they perform .... I fully resize all cases but do know a few folks who don't .... so long as they work smoothly in your rifle, neck sizing might be worth considering