December Western Gunbelt

[BrokenolMarine]

Watched those videos on holsters, and finally got out and gave the pattern a try. Got started by laying out the dimensions of the Uberti. Gives me a guide for the pattern.

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I laid the belt across the Uberti Silhouette and marked where the holster would hang to insure it wouldn't hang too high or too low, and worked for about an hour laying out the first attempt. Took my time making the loop that would secure the holster to it's skirt so the shape would be pleasing and accommodate the accent concho to match the belt. When I was done, it looked like it would work... But, I wasn't going to cut leather based on that pattern.

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I went back in for the day and RE-watched the three video series from Springfield Leather...

[BrokenolMarine]

That first try at the pattern didn't work out so well. It would not have fit the gun and I tossed it. I went back out this afternoon after Miss T came back from town with a roll of heavy paper from Home Depot. The much thicker paper was easier to work with and I started again. Second try was closer, but no cigar. Third try was a charm. Made another welt of course, but the retention loop was still golden.

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I'll start cutting out the leather this evening or tomorrow. The weather has been cold and raining heavily since last night. Not good for old men with Arthritis.

[BrokenolMarine]

The sharp eyed among you might have noted the extra allowance in the pattern for the main body of the holster. This was intentional, recommended by the Geezer in the Springfield Leather video series. It's easy to trim away the extra after glue up. It's a LOT harder to add leather back if you misalign the parts or pieces and leave a gap...

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I'll also insure that when the welt is installed there is a bit of overhang outside the edge of the holster. That will all be trimmed flush after the glue dries...

[BrokenolMarine]

Well, had family up for a few days and couldn't get into the shop. Just before they arrived however, I did FINALLY make the bench weights I had been intending to make for the last year. Sheesh. Bench weights are the weights you place on the leather or pattern to keep them from moving. I had made a set before from a ziplock bag filled with playground sand, and placed in the cloth bag. Just not enough weight.

This time I took two five pound metal weight plates from an old weight set, and I wrapped them in Bubble Wrap to pad them, then covered them in some old ugly material we would never use anywhere else and added a handle. Perfect.

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[BrokenolMarine]

When I got out to the shop yesterday after company left... I found that these weights worked out great! They are heavy enough that the leather doesn't move when you are cutting and/or tooling.

[BrokenolMarine]

I managed to roll out the 10 ounce leather, and transferred the pattern, then got the leather cut out. Here is hoping this thing turns out well. I marked out the initial tooling window and went around the edge with the tooling accents. So far so good.

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A little closer look. Once it's dyed, any smaller errors won't be so visible.

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When I go back out this morning after my coffee and toast, I'll cut out the retention loop and the welt and then dye them all after any tooling is done.

[BrokenolMarine]

Out this morning and cut out the retention loop and welt for the holster, then tooled the loop. I laid the concho on the loop to see how she would look. I like it.

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A quick check of the pieces and then some paper on the work table and the light brown dye and we are prepped to dye.

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Got them all dyed, and left them to dry. ONLY the edges of the welts were dyed so the contact cement would work better. Same with the edges of the interior of the holster.

38 dyed and drying.jpg (516.36 KiB) Viewed 2726 times

[BrokenolMarine]

Once it's dry, I'll treat it all with tan coat or mink oil to soften and protect it before moving on to the next stage. The dying process often makes the leather stiff.

[BrokenolMarine]

Went out and treated the pieces with the mink oil. Great difference in the flexibility, especially in the retention loop which had gotten very stiff indeed. Then, after carefully measuring and marking, I roughed and glued the welts in place on the holster. Clamped it and prepared to leave it overnight to cure. I'll sew 'er up tomorrow.

39 holster glued up.jpg (463.64 KiB) Viewed 2709 times

The Retention Loop got the same treatment, but I went ahead and burnished the edges, and waxed it. Then punched the hole for the Concho. I wanted that installed before I put it in place on the holster skirt after that job is done. I think it is looking pretty good.

40 retention loop dyed and concho.jpg (287.07 KiB) Viewed 2709 times

We are moving along, again, work to do tomorrow.

[Hatchdog]

Looking good, love the concho. That sure is a heavy piece of leather, must have been a chore to cut it.

[BrokenolMarine]

Looking good, love the concho. That sure is a heavy piece of leather, must have been a chore to cut it.

New blade in the knife. I have learned to make two passes on the heavy stuff. The first pass follows the pattern, and cuts about a third through. The second pass easily follows the first, IF you let it, and completes the cut.

The eight to ten ounce leather is recommended for holsters for the stiffness you'll want for the body. For something like an inside the pants holster, you would go lighter to allow it to mold a bit better. (Or so I've read. )

[BrokenolMarine]

Back out for a couple hours today. I antiqued the loop after correcting some small issues with the tooling that likely only I noticed... then recoated the finish. I set that aside to dry, and with my tongue held just right, I marked the holster for sewing, and drilled the holes. The front went where I wanted. I used a saddle stitch and sewed it up tight to insure we stayed together. Using dark brown dye, I dyed the edges of the holster and the thread and the tooling, and set 'er aside. While THAT dried I went back to the loop and buffed it out. The holster was folded over and I marked the location of the slots for the retention loop and punched those with a slot cutter. Then I could measure the loop and cut it. I punched the holes I'll need to sew that together tomorrow once everything is done.

One last task before stopping for the day, I burnished the edge of the holster where the welts are, and they cleaned up very nice. Looking good. Tomorrow? Burnish the edge of the skirt, the top of the holster body, (Which I should have done before assembly... duh. ) ... and install and sew the retention loop. I'll also drill holes at the bottom of the holster and in the skirt for a tiedown, which will keep the holster from moving up and down in the loop. I WON'T be tying down the holster for quick draw.

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It's looking good so far.... I need to burnish the rough side to get rid of the ragged look.

[BrokenolMarine]

Out this morning after a great breakfast. I fixed western omelet's. Fitting, Huh? Addressed the few issues I had, then burnished the edge of the skirt, and reburnished the edge of the holster body again. Looking good and they are sealed against invasions.

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Added another coat of wax to it all, buffed to a high shine. I took my time and sewed the retention loop in place. Folded the holster over the belt and tucked it in the loop. Time to try the Uberti in the rig. This is pretty much done, I just have to decide if I'm going to bother with a hammer loop and the tie down loop to keep the holster from moving in the loop. Probably. Won't take all that long and will give the holster a finished look. As always, there will be some touch up in my future. I saw some spots that will get some color touch up as well.

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It was a learning experience and on the next one, I'll know what to do, and more importantly, what NOT to do.

[BrokenolMarine]

Up next, the sheath for the knife.

[daytime dave]

Great so far!

[RetiredSeabee]

Thanks for bringing us along. I have a better understanding of why the good western holster rigs are on the pricey side. A lot of work involved.

[BrokenolMarine]

Thanks for bringing us along. I have a better understanding of why the good western holster rigs are on the pricey side. A lot of work involved.

And when a real leathersmith does the work, you are paying for years of experience and knowledge. I remember a woodworker I knew telling someone whining about a quoted price he'd sell them the kit for half. Just the wood and hardware. The potential buyer asked what he would "DO" with that?

"There yah go."

[BrokenolMarine]

Went out this evening for a couple hours. Thought I'd take a pic of the back of the retention loop so y'all could see how it was sewn.

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Took the time to put the bottom braid on to hold the holster in place. Dyed the thong and then with a hole drilled thru the holster and the skirt, looped it through. I added some barrel beads as accents, tying between the beads so they stayed in place. This is NOT meant as a tie down, but can be cut and replaced if I find later that I want one.

45 holster loop.jpg (448.64 KiB) Viewed 2574 times

Next up, starting on the knife sheath....

[BrokenolMarine]

First step on laying out the pattern is to draw the knife itself on the material used for the pattern. In this case, an old file folder. Then you play with the layout and design. I went with a two piece rather than a rolled over, so I could insure I'd have room for the concho, the tying piece for each aspect of the Gunbelt. As you can see, I added each component to stabilize the knife when sheathed.

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Once the layout was done, I cut out the main pattern, and redrew that on the folder. Then cut out the front section, redrew it. Cut out the welt, from the front piece, and redrew it on the file folder. Lastly I used that center I had cut out to make the welt as the pattern for the wedge. Then, using each pattern piece, I prepped the leather for cutting by transferring the pattern to the leather.

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Next I went to work. I cut out each piece, then cut out two pieces of the wedge shape when test fitting showed I'd need extra. Test fitting let me mark where adjustments would be needed to the parts I had cut out. I marked and then tooled the front and back panels, while they dried, I skived the wedges so they would work. Got a lot done, but still plenty to go.

Tomorrow I will recheck my work, and I'll also cut out the belt loop for the back of the back panel, as well as the front strap that will secure the knife to the sheath, and tool that. I am in no rush as I can't glue up the project until AFTER the concho is installed and I am waiting for those to arrive from Tandy, they should be finished with end of the year inventory and beginning to ship soon. NO rush...

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I can dye the pieces once they are done, taking care NOT to dye the areas that will be taking glue.

[BrokenolMarine]

After a couple sessions, I have made some progress on the sheath. A stutter here or there, but making progress. When you stutter, you recut and keep moving but just because you have to recut, you don't waste the off cut. As you can see, I used a portion of the off cut to make the belt loop. (The tooled piece on the far right will be the belt loop, the tooling will be hidden...)

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The stack with the wedge will allow the knife to fit tight in the sheath, and the strap will secure the handle to the top. I need to add the snaps. So far the pieces have been dyed, (two coats) and treated with neatsfoot oil to restore the flexibility since the dye dries it out terribly. Next trip to the shop I'll antique the tooling as needed then add a finish, then install the concho since it can't be installed AFTER assembly. Once the step dries, I'll glue up.