Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

[North Country Gal]

Snow has finally melted enough to be able make a range trip convenient, so took a few old familiar rifles, plus one new one to test out. Since we had such great luck with the new production Browning T Bolt Target/Varmint we bought, last fall, thought we'd try another version in the Browning T Bolt Sporter, also in 22 LR. First time out with this one. ( I did polish out the standard matte finish on the stock for a touch more shine.)


The closest thing to the T Bolt Sporter in a CZ would be the CZ 455 American, but I do like the balance of this Browning just a bit more than the CZ American. The T Bolt is easier to steady with just a touch more weight out front than the muzzle light CZ.

Wears a Leupold Freedom 3-9x33 EFR. Nice match for a trim, lightweight rifle. Also added a Jard trigger for a very nice 16 ounce trigger pull that breaks nice and crisp.


As for accuracy, as much as I love our CZs, have to say both of our new Browning T Bolts get the edge in accuracy. Not much, mind you, but it's there. Ammo was Eley Subsonic HPs. This is one of three 5 shot groups. One was slightly smaller and one slightly larger at a touch over .40", so this one makes a good typical group. (Inside circle on the orange dot is half inch wide.)


And here's a 10 shot group (capacity of the rotary mag) without using a rest or support, other than me sitting on the bench. Not quite as challenging as a full standing position, but certainly a challenge when shooting at 9x with no other support. The superb trigger is a big part of making such a group possible. (Two shots in that bottom hole.)


These Browning T Bolts are not cheap, but I really enjoy working that T Bolt action. Something just a bit different than a standard 22 bolt gun. Definitely one of my very serious fun shooters.


Next time out will try out one of the original Browning Belgium T Bolt to see how it compares with these new T Bolts.

[Bugs]

If it's not too much trouble could you post a pic of the bolt handle. Neat rifle.

[dddrees]

Very nice!!!

[deano5150]

Wow! Excellent shooting!

[roddy]

Thanks NCG.
I was recently looking at a maple t-bolt sporter. The first time, I came home with an SA-22. The second time, I came home with a shot-show Buckmark. I should have snagged the T-bolt, but I picked up a new-in-box Ruger 77/22 (22LR...beautiful rifle) this winter, and didn't see the need for another bolt gun. Your post prompted me to call the store to check on that maple version, and they sold it this week. The owner can get me the 2019 shot-show T-bolt Speed, but the look of that one doesn't work for me...hate cammo on a gun. He can also get the Stainless Target/varmint in, but the stock on that one is a grey laminate. I'm not big on plywood either.

Do you find much difference in the balance of the sporter vs the target/varmint? The sporter certainly seems accurate enough, and I do really like the idea of a straight-pull bolt.

In an unrelated question, do you have a BL-22, and what is your opinion? This dealer is an FLD, and has a BL-22 with a satin nickle finish that my wife took a liking to.

[North Country Gal]

As requested, here is a pic of a T Bolt with the bolt open. There's no up and down movement to operate a T Bolt - just push and pull. Allows for the lowest possible scope mounting, it's fun to operate and lock up is very tight.

Action open

Action closed


This new version also uses a non-traditional rotary style 10 shot magazine


As I've mentioned in another post, the out of the box trigger on these new versions is superbly crisp, but will break somewhere between three and four pounds. There is a weight adjustment, but it's mostly in name, only. This is as low as you'll get. I think the trigger is perfectly adequate for hunting and plinking, but if you really want to get the accuracy these guns can deliver, you'll want to do some trigger work. That's why we went with the Jard trigger on both of these new T Bolts. Be warned, though, the Jard triggers are spooky expensive and fussy to adjust and set up.

There really is not much difference in weight or handling between this walnut Sporter version and the walnut Varmint/Target version, which we also have. The difference is mostly in the stocks with the Target/Varmint being a bit more scope friendly and rest friendly on the bag.

One of the criticisms of this new T Bolt is the use of plastic in some of the action parts and the chassis to hold the also plastic mag. Given the price of this rifle, I do think this is justified, but fear not, the plastic is not used in any high wear parts. Shouldn't cause any issues with durability. If you want an all metal current production gun, I would highly recommend the SA 22 or even the BL-22.

If the plastic bothers you and you still want a T Bolt, look for a vintage T Bolt from back in the 60s and 70s when the T Bolt was first introduced. These are all metal and walnut guns, no plastic, BUT you'll spend just as much for one in mint condition as one of these new editions. We did that very thing because we've fallen in love with these guns. Here's our mint, Belgium made T2 from 1966. Note that if you do buy one of these in this time frame, you need to educate yourself on the saltwootd issue, because some guns used saltwood cured stocks and some didn't, even in the same model. Ours did not.

[North Country Gal]

To answer the question on the BL-22. I've owned several and very much enjoyed them. The little guns have a lot going for them. All metal construction with steel being used in the receiver, but there is a little aluminum used in the baseplate of the action. Very short lever throw makes for a fun shooter.

Note that there is no such thing as a Belgium made BL-22. Browning introduced them at the same time they were going to Miroku for production, so all BL-22s are made in Japan.

Triggers tend to be the major complaint and they can be as heavy out of the box as 6 pounds, though four pounds is more the average. The ones I've tested, though, had nice crisp triggers and they will get better with use. Not a whole lot of mods that can be done on the BL-22 trigger, but find one with a trigger that passes your personal test and you'll have a fun gun. Try before you buy is good advice.

Not a gun made for the user to take apart, but you won't need to, anyway, since the action is easy to clean.

The little guns are capable of some good accuracy, but the factory open sights are definitely NOT old eyes friendly. Skinner makes a peep for the BL-22, but it will require a taller front sight. If you do go scope, you'll want to keep it small to retain the fun handling of this fun lever gun. A red dot is ideal.

Those FLD versions caught my eye in the ads, but my local shop is not an FLD, so I passed.

Compared to the SA 22, my choice would be the SA 22. Triggers on the average are better on the SA 22, take down for cleaning is a matter of seconds to do and they are amazingly accurate, plus the SA 22 is still made true to the all steel and wood tradition, same as it's been made from the start.

Don't hesitate to ask questions. Be glad to help, as always.

[dddrees]

As requested, here is a pic of a T Bolt with the bolt open. There's no up and down movement to operate a T Bolt - just push and pull. Allows for the lowest possible scope mounting, it's fun to operate and lock up is very tight.

Action open

Action closed


This new version also uses a non-traditional rotary style 10 shot magazine


As I've mentioned in another post, the out of the box trigger on these new versions is superbly crisp, but will break somewhere between three and four pounds. There is a weight adjustment, but it's mostly in name, only. This is as low as you'll get. I think the trigger is perfectly adequate for hunting and plinking, but if you really want to get the accuracy these guns can deliver, you'll want to do some trigger work. That's why we went with the Jard trigger on both of these new T Bolts. Be warned, though, the Jard triggers are spooky expensive and fussy to adjust and set up.

There really is not much difference in weight or handling between this walnut Sporter version and the walnut Varmint/Target version, which we also have. The difference is mostly in the stocks with the Target/Varmint being a bit more scope friendly and rest friendly on the bag.

One of the criticisms of this new T Bolt is the use of plastic in some of the action parts and the chassis to hold the also plastic mag. Given the price of this rifle, I do think this is justified, but fear not, the plastic is not used in any high wear parts. Shouldn't cause any issues with durability. If you want an all metal current production gun, I would highly recommend the SA 22 or even the BL-22.

If the plastic bothers you and you still want a T Bolt, look for a vintage T Bolt from back in the 60s and 70s when the T Bolt was first introduced. These are all metal and walnut guns, no plastic, BUT you'll spend just as much for one in mint condition as one of these new editions. We did that very thing because we've fallen in love with these guns. Here's our mint, Belgium made T2 from 1966. Note that if you do buy one of these in this time frame, you need to educate yourself on the saltwootd issue, because some guns used saltwood cured stocks and some didn't, even in the same model. Ours did not.

I'm just starting to look for a bolt rifle and I am trying to determine which one would be right for me. I have to say the TBolt seemed like a potential candidate and I had high hopes it might be a good candidate. That is until I came across a thread on RimfireCentral which goes into a bit of detail about owners and their disatisfaction with the trigger on this particular rifle. I have to say the plastic bits also pretty much turn me off as well.

Sounds like the rifle has great potential but just comes up a bit short when it comes to these two details, at least for me anyway.

[North Country Gal]

I do understand, dddrees. My recommendation, then, would be a CZ for a bolt gun. Really are a better value and the 452/455 triggers are a breeze to mod, really as simple as it gets. The only CZs I haven't owned, yet, are the new 457s, but, honestly, I love our 425s, 453s, and 455s so much, I'm in no hurry to buy one.

[Bugs]

NGC thanks for the pics.

[Henry88]

NCG, when you say "REST", could you tell us a little more. I'm thinking sandbags, but how many (front/rear or only front), and where do you typically place it/them (with relation to the stock)?


I think we all would appreciate any tidbits on the thought process, etc. when you shoot from a rest.

[dddrees]

I do understand, dddrees. My recommendation, then, would be a CZ for a bolt gun. Really are a better value and the 452/455 triggers are a breeze to mod, really as simple as it gets. The only CZs I haven't owned, yet, are the new 457s, but, honestly, I love our 425s, 453s, and 455s so much, I'm in no hurry to buy one.

Right now for me it's between CZ, Anschutz, and an outside chance on a Winchester 52. Not sure if there are any other decent ones out there I should be considering but these are the ones I am currently looking at.I ruled out a Cooper because it simply would be too much and I think I want to go more old school so I don't think a Volquartsen would appeal to me.

[North Country Gal]

I'm old school on the rests. I use sandbags, front and rear. On the front, I usually rest the gun just forward of the trigger guard to minimize contact with the forearm, since the forearm is a sensitive pressure point on many gun designs. On the rear, I use the also traditional method of squeezing the bag with my left hand to raise or lower the gun slightly. I take my time after every shot to get this right, meaning that the crosshairs or sights are resting naturally on target before firing the gun. I will also pull on the trigger (with the gun unloaded) during my initial setup to make sure the gun is coming directly back when pressure is applied to the trigger, crosshairs/sights basically still on target, rather than moving the sights off target.

I don't use sleds or other static rests because they don't allow me to fine tune how I rest a gun the way bags do. It's been my experience that every gun is an individual and part of getting to know that gun is learning how it best likes to be held or rested. A "one rest fits all" or a "one hold works for all" does not work for me. Not criticizing sleds and such, but I much prefer the use of traditional bags. Each to their own.

I sometimes get a little creative when I find a gun that needs something different, as seen here with a vintage Remington 550-1 22 LR. Not much weight out there at the muzzle, so was getting too much bounce off the bag for my liking. Used my left hand to ever so gently stabilize that forearm. Note that I also placed a bag under my forearm to stabilize it. It worked, though, tightened up my groups.


Guess my approach to resting a gun might be best described as the gun-whisperer approach. I let the gun tell me what it likes. Just have to do my part and let it talk to me.

[Henry88]

Thank you so much NCG for that. Somehow, from following your posts, it was along the lines I thought you would say. The reason I asked is I found my Henry Classic H001 to be very hold sensitive, maybe having something to do with the forestock?

So, recently (since airguns) I began to shoot everything artillery style, with my left hand back in front of the magazine. On my pellet gun I went as far to demark the place I hold with a piece of tape.

But now I am finding that my .22s can be just as finicky as an airgun (in fact maybe more )

So I guess if you're a hunter, try to emulate how you hold the gun in the field, and setup your bags/etc. accordingly, to avoid that, "I can't believe I missed .

[North Country Gal]

Definitely something to that light hold thing. It's one thing shooting air guns will teach you.

[RanchRoper]

Expert shooting as usual. Nice to see your range reports again. I always learn stuff.

[Mags]

.
Please explain the bit about the pressure sensitive point. Why is that?

... I usually rest the gun just forward of the trigger guard to minimize contact with the forearm, since the forearm is a sensitive pressure point on many gun designs.

[Henry88]

I think it would be great if some of the better off hand shooters like NCG and RR showed us how they hold their rifle.

Just sayin

[dddrees]

NCG, great thread and very informative, thanks for sharing.

[North Country Gal]

.
Please explain the bit about the pressure sensitive point. Why is that?

... I usually rest the gun just forward of the trigger guard to minimize contact with the forearm, since the forearm is a sensitive pressure point on many gun designs.

Anything that attaches to a barrel will affect barrel harmonics - how the barrel vibrates during the shot. That, in turn, can have a pronounced effect on how consistently the barrel vibrates, shot after shot. That consistency is what makes for accuracy. Notice how bench rest rifle barrels tend to be very thick and relatively short. This makes for very consistent barrel harmonics.

Anything that touches the barrel, then, will have an effect on barrel harmonics. It's why there are numerous ways a rifle action and barrel are bedded in a stock. Free floated barrels in bolt action rifle stocks where the barrel doesn't touch the forearm is one method, but it is certainly not the only method. In fact, some bedding designs deliberately have the stock touching the barrel at a given point and removing it, via a do-it-yourself free floating job, can destroy accuracy.

Rifle designs where parts are directly attached to the barrel tend to be the most sensitive to a rest because the upward pressure exerted by the rest is directly transferred to the barrel through these parts. A good example is my Contender and Encore rifles/pistols where the forearms are screwed directly onto the barrel. Even have to be careful when changing barrels to torque those forearm screws the same. Too tight or too loose can affect accuracy. That's why I rest my Contender and Encores well back towards the receiver when shooting from a rest.

Lever guns are another gun design that can be touchy about forearm pressure, especially forearms that use a barrel band. More than one shooter has discovered that over tightening a barrel band can wreck accuracy. Rifle style lever gun forearms with a cap are generally a better design, but, remember, there's a lot of stuff dangling underneath a lever gun barrel like a tubular magazine and so forth. Even a loose tubular magazine bouncing around during a shot can affect accuracy.

In the end, it's always, always, always consistency that counts if you're after accuracy. Pretty tough to get that consistency if you keep changing any of these pressure points on the gun from one shot to the next. If you are going to rest that lever gun way out on the forearm, you must be careful to place it in exactly the same place for every shot. Resting the gun under the action greatly reduces this variable, though, because it's a less sensitive pressure point than that forearm.

Whew! Hope I haven't lost anyone with all this stuff, but I've really only touched the tip of this vary large iceberg. Go to a benchrest competition, sometime, where these folks actually build their own rifles if you want to see how complicated and detailed these discussions can get.