Lyman system

[wingnut]

Hodgdon's Universal powder is near equivalent to Unique with the advantage of being cleaner burning and easier to measure.

[RanchRoper]

Universal is easy to get so likely what I will go with. Thks

[CT_Shooter]

Hodgdon's Universal powder is near equivalent to Unique with the advantage of being cleaner burning and easier to measure.

I have both and agree that they are very similar in burn rate and somewhat alike in appearance (different coloration). Both result in accurate drops from the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, unlike H110, which is almost like water in the way it flows. I have to use a dipper with it to get a consistent measure. It has been my practice to weigh each charge.

I've read reports that Unique can be dirty, but that's not my experience. I think Alliant modified it to burn cleaner than it once did.

Powders I have on hand for .357 magnum and .38 special: H110, HP-38, Unique, and Universal; all from the same batch numbers and more of each than I will likely use in the next several years.

[RanchRoper]

Whats the difference between universal and universal clays?

[CT_Shooter]

Whats the difference between universal and universal clays?

There are three different powders in the Hodgdon "Clays family" of smokeless powder; they are International, Universal, and Clays. Universal Clays IS Universal.

You can read about each on this Hodgdon Webpage:

https://www.hodgdon.com/products/smokel ... ys-family/

[Flinch]

I currently use a RCBS Chargemaster combo for loading rifle cartridges, but it may take as much as 30 seconds for the powder to dispense and the scale to stabilize for one load. I was considering a mechanical powder measure where I can pull a lever to dispense powder more quickly if I am loading 100 or more cartridges.

In your experience, what is a good mechanical equivalent of the RCBS Chargemaster that won't require a winning lottery ticket to purchase?

[wingnut]

Whats the difference between universal and universal clays?

There are three different powders in the Hodgdon "Clays family" of smokeless powder; they are International, Universal, and Clays. Universal Clays IS Universal.

You can read about each on this Hodgdon Webpage:

https://www.hodgdon.com/products/smokel ... ys-family/

When the "Clay Family" first came out the confusion bwtn UC & C was terrible. Since, then UC has been reduced to just Universal.

As seen now:

https://www.midwayusa.com/s?targetLocat ... sPerPage=0

[wingnut]

I currently use a RCBS Chargemaster combo for loading rifle cartridges, but it may take as much as 30 seconds for the powder to dispense and the scale to stabilize for one load. I was considering a mechanical powder measure where I can pull a lever to dispense powder more quickly if I am loading 100 or more cartridges.

In your experience, what is a good mechanical equivalent of the RCBS Chargemaster that won't require a winning lottery ticket to purchase?

Before going mechanical, try pre-loading the pan with 50-90% of the full charge. Then press Dispense.

Have a cereal bowl with powder in it. Use a spoon to scoop and place a goodly amount of powder in the pan.

[Shakey Jake]

I currently use a RCBS Chargemaster combo for loading rifle cartridges, but it may take as much as 30 seconds for the powder to dispense and the scale to stabilize for one load. I was considering a mechanical powder measure where I can pull a lever to dispense powder more quickly if I am loading 100 or more cartridges.

In your experience, what is a good mechanical equivalent of the RCBS Chargemaster that won't require a winning lottery ticket to purchase?

I use the Little Dandy powder measure and bushings. I get consistent drops and other than having to buy different bushings it's very easy to load. One doesn't have to buy every one either. I can use a #10 bushing to load 6.8 gr of Power Pistol for my .40 S&W loads and drop 2X to 18.8 gr of Accurate 9 for my .44 mag loads. I've learned to be creative with the bushing to save expense.

[RanchRoper]

Thanks guys, I will go with Universal powder, which is available in 4 lb jug from the place where I will get all of the reloading gear. 1 shipment. Bonus.

The Hodgdon site has a reloading data center that is helpful understanding all this stuff. Good thing I don't scare easy...mind boggling. One day maybe I'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

[JEBar]

One day maybe I'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

not only that, you will be able to help others who are considering loading their own ammo

[BigAl52]

Yup that will happen RR. I agree with Jim I think maybe Evan and Cofisher have helped some people here who were on the fence about reloading. Seeing both of those guys success is great and I for one am happy for both of them. Im also sure both of those guys are feeling pretty good about how they have progressed and seeing there results on paper. My hats off to both of them for taking the challenge.

[RanchRoper]

I'm excited. Looking forward to learning it.

I assume I can go ahead and clean brass BEFORE de-priming? I think I read somewhere to not put dirty brass into the die to push the old primer out?

[BigAl52]

Yes sir clean brass first. Not a good idea to run dirty brass in dies it can damage the carbide lining in the die and you dont want the dirt and grit in the dies.

[CT_Shooter]

I'm excited. Looking forward to learning it.

I assume I can go ahead and clean brass BEFORE de-priming? I think I read somewhere to not put dirty brass into the die to push the old primer out?

Yes sir clean brass first. Not a good idea to run dirty brass in dies it can damage the carbide lining in the die and you dont want the dirt and grit in the dies.

I agree with Al. Clean before de-capping and resizing your brass.

[ESquared]

I appreciate all your kind words, Al, but you have to take some of the credit, too, as you were a great source of information and you answered scores of my newbie questions "back in the day"!

It's been a very fun, rewarding part of the hobby that I never, EVER thought I'd be involved with, and, while I'm still way down on the learning curve, the progress I've made has been encouraging, so thanks again to you and many of the others (they know who they are!) who have assisted along the way.

NOW, if this NEW GUY can offer a tip on decapping: I bought a cheap Lee universal decapping die and I decap everything as my very first step, before tumbling, as I like the way that process cleans out the primer pockets and even further reduces the chance of getting grit and "stuff" in my resizing die. It truly is a universal die, just basically a hollow die with a decapping pin, and the shell holder centers it up perfectly.

So, RR, that's my advice for the day. Do with it what you will, but I like seeing primer pockets that are just as shiny as the rest of the brass coming out of the tumbler! An extra step, but worth it, in my little world!

[Mistered]

If you are going to wet tumble brass it needs to be de-capped before doing so.
Brass should be sized, deprimed & trimmed (if necessary for the caliber) before tumbling.
End of story...

[CT_Shooter]

I like seeing primer pockets that are just as shiny as the rest of the brass coming out of the tumbler! An extra step, but worth it, in my little world!

You'd be surprised at how little grit there actually is in that primer pocket. After multiple firings (I have some that are on their 8th cycle), I have never had enough to be concerned about. The primer holes are always perfectly round, clean, and clear; and the new primers always seat perfectly.

[RanchRoper]

Thanks, will let you know how it goes. Maybe rent a cement mixer and do all 3500 rounds at once....

[CT_Shooter]

Thanks, will let you know how it goes. Maybe rent a cement mixer and do all 3500 rounds at once....

RR, you have enough once fired brass and unfired ammo to reload and shoot fifty rounds per day, every day, for 22 years! I'd call that enough.