Skinner Low Pro Installed - First Outing!

[ESquared]

I figured I'd start a new thread rather than make folks scroll through all the back-story. My thanks to all of you again who provided feedback and guidance.
I ended up with a Skinner Low Pro, which I installed this AM. I left the front factory sight in place.

Based on TractorTad's input, I started out by bottoming out the Low Pro, then raising it up/backing it out two turns.

Attached are four target pics.

The first ("#1") is the setting described above, from 25 yards, seated with a sandbag rest. There are three ea. 5-shot groups on this target.
Groups 1 and 2 are with the Low Pro bottomed out, then backed out/raised about a turn-and-a-half turns (based on where I ended up in the bottomed-out state).
Group 3 is a 5 shot group with the Low Pro raised up one more turn.

Target #2 is at the same setting, same distance, just a new target to "unclutter" the groupings.

Target #3 is at the same setting, but at 35 Yards. 3 ea. 5-shot groups.

Target #4 is at the same setting, but at 50 yards. 3 ea. 5-shot groups.

At 50 yds, the gold bead basically covers most of the center of the entire target, so it's literally "point and shoot," vs. "aim and shoot," if that makes sense. For this rookie, it's just a matter of holding the sight on-center and pulling the trigger.

And, speaking of triggers, I've gotta say, this trigger is FANTASTIC! No creep whatsoever and it must break at 3 lbs (?); certainly no more than 4 lbs. And the action/loading was fine, except for another operator error on Round #1 a couple of times. I'm learning!

What do you all think?? Would that Lyman Globe front sight that TractorTad suggests make this any better at 50 yds?

[Shakey Jake]

Looks good to me!

[tractortad]

Those groups look pretty good for the first time shooting a new BigBoy. That #3 group at 50 yds is keeper now matter what sights are on your Henry - nice shooting.
A couple of thoughts:
First, if the front bead is covering the target (and it usually will over 25yds), you might want to try the "six o'clock" hold position. That's where you basically hold the target directly above the bead in your sight picture. Hopefully, NCG will chime in here because she can explain this technique better than anyone on this forum. You may have to readjust the elevation on the low-pro to sight-in the rifle using this technique.
Second, I think a Lyman globe would probably tighten up your groups. It's easier to see the target thru a rear peep and line it up in the center of the globe (for me, anyway) than it is to line the target up with a bead sight. If you use some of the fine globe inserts made by Lee Shaver, you can use a crosshairs or a small circle in the front globe and the sight picture looks similar to a scope - which again makes it much easier to hold the front sight on the target while looking thru the rear peep.

[North Country Gal]

Good for you, ES. You did fine with that setup.

A six o'clock hold is a sight picture used for bullseye target work, with the sights touching the bottom edge of the bullseye (six o'clock position on the face of a clock) and the rear sight set to shoot just high enough to hit the center a bullseye of a given size at a given distance. This allows a much more precise sight picture than covering a bullseye with the front sight. That, in turn, improves scores.

The problem with a six o'clock hold is it locks you in to a specific bullseye size at a specific distance. Change either one and you need to re-zero you sights. That's still okay for most types of formal competition when shooting at known standardized distances and known standardized size targets. When shooting silhouette, for instance, it's pretty easy, via experimenting, to have your sights preset via clicks needed for each size target at each distance.

For field shooting and hunting when you are basically guessing distances and need to shoot in a hurry, doing the math with a six o'clock hold and that extra height you used to hit the center of the bull gets too tricky to be practical for me. For this type of shooting, I go back to a dead on hold (also called a point-blank hold) with my elevation set to coincide with the tip of my front sight for a given load at a given distance. I then either use hold over or hold under as needed. I also use another system called maximum point-blank range (MPR). This allows you to use the same hold on the target - no hold over or hold under - and still hit the vitals or the target of a given size as long as you shoot within a given span of distance.

Let us know what ammo you'll be using and what distances you'll be expecting to shoot, but, for now, you're off to a good start. Congrats.

[Mistered]

That's where you basically hold the target directly above the bead in your sight picture.

Pretty much it - you set your target on 'top' of the blade or bead - see below - black is the sight picture, red is the target.

Untitled.png (7.49 KiB) Viewed 3881 times

[North Country Gal]

A picture truly is worth a thousand words - my words, at least. Thanks.

[ESquared]

Thanks to you all for your kind words, encouragement and advice. I'm familiar with six-o-clock (SIght Image 1), but have never really used it, having trained for years with Sig-Sauer handguns by "running the dots," or using combat hold (Number 3). I guess this is what led me to cover up the center of the target as best I could at 50 yards with the brass bead! Handguns at 6-8 yards is a whole different story, huh?

I think for now I'll take the plunge on the Lyman front globe and see if I can tighten things up a bit, while continuing to find out from my deer camp host what the most likely distance scenarios are likely to be. It's his land and most of the hunting is done from blinds and stands, as I understand it, but distances are a key missing variable. Those Lee Shaver inserts sound very interesting, TT, so thanks for that tip as well!

More to come, but thanks again for all the feedback and assistance.

[North Country Gal]

One of the big advantages of globe sights for me is the huge variety of inserts you can use. Lets you pick the front sight that works the best for your shooting and conditions.

[ESquared]

Ordered the Lyman and the Shaver inserts last night. Both are in my part of the country, so shipping should be quick.

Back to the range!

[Mistered]

All this talk about globe fronts has got me to researching them and reading reviews about them - I just might have to give one a try - but need to decide which rifle to put it in for the 'acid test' !

[ESquared]

All this talk about globe fronts has got me to researching them and reading reviews about them - I just might have to give one a try - but need to decide which rifle to put it in for the 'acid test' !

Whichever ones have Skinners! If they all do, then maybe the one that is the most challenging at, say, 50 yards?

[Mistered]

No Skinners - all Williams' on my rifles - and one to soon have a Marble's tang sight

[ESquared]

Very nice. You must like the Williams? Looks like that one has a nice elevation adjustment...

[Mistered]

Yea I prefer the sliding dovetail style elevation and windage adjustments of the Williams. One of the biggest bummers was the fact that Henry did not drill and tap their receivers for a side mount Williams sight - but then Williams did not proceed with making a sight for the Henry. I decided to live with the Williams WGRS-336 hanging over the back of the receiver until I stumbled on the fact the windage blade can be reversed on it and the sight mounted backwards therefore creating a 'proper' fit - I often wonder how many BB owners have had a 3rd hole drilled and tapped to eliminate it hanging over the rear of the receiver.

[ESquared]

I put the Lyman globe on the front and cranked the Lo Pro as far down as possible yesterday (it was bottoming out against the bolt, but I still had thread-room at the top) and it was shooting about 4" high at 50 yds. This was the the Lyman 17A @ .404" high.

Today, had my gunsmith grind off a few threads, which allowed me to get the Lo Pro lower and it's getting there.

I say "getting there," because I've introduced another variable to all this, which is a set of Shaver inserts for the Lyman Globe, and I was swapping out 3-4 of those while getting the elevation adjusted. Too much going on, so I'll go back soon, now that I think I've found an insert that I like, and make sure I haven't over-compensated and set the Lo Pro too low.

Nothing worse than a too low Lo Pro, right?