Henry Gun Case Project

[BrokenolMarine]

Out in the shop for a bit. Several things to get done first off.
I unweighted the dry frames and took off the tape and waxed paper, and as promised, took a pic or three to give us a feel what the case will look like, at least from the sides. Well, at least before more sanding, polishing, finish, polishing, hardware... you get the drift.

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Once I got those pictures taken and had a look at the frames themselves, I took additional measurements, and wrote down the figures, and then before beginning to cut the backing, I checked the tablesaw blade and fence for true and found that the fence was OUT about a 1/16th inch and needed adjustment. This would have caused a problem with the LONG cut for insert for the frame, so I took the time to readjust the rip guide so that I had a better chance NOT to screw up those cuts.

Checked a few other things, connected the dust collector, took a deep breath and made the cuts, slightly oversize so that I could FIT them... and got busy. As you can see by the pics, I used the block plane to slowly fit the backers to the top and bottom frame, taking my time to get the best fit possible.

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The next step has the real pucker factor, so I will take a break and get fully rested. The next step will have me cutting the Cherry Side pieces to glue to the backers, then gluing those into the frames. I have to decide whether or not to glue the TOP a bit proud and roll the edges or glue it flush.
The Bottom I know I'll glue flush to protect the edges.

[BrokenolMarine]

Started the top insert... and the pucker factor was high as I made the first pass on the table saw.
I set the rip fence so the cut would be just a hair over four inches, and made both cuts. Both boards are still well over length, to be trimmed at the time they are fitted into the frames to insure a nice tight fit.

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I had drawn a reference line down the center of the backer board, and then rolled the board with glue to insure a solid bond.

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Carefully aligning the one board, I held the position with a few small clamps, then added the second board, after rolling the glue on the second side and painting the joint edge with a hair brush to insure another good bond. Held that position with a few small clamps as well. Note the chalk alignment marks on the panels. They help in initial alignment of the grain, and insure I am putting the best face UP on the backer board.

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Once I was satisfied with the position of both the boards, I started to add cabinet maker's clamps. These put good pressure across the surface of the boards. I added one or two of these, and then left them overnight.

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Once this panel has dried overnight, I'll glue up the second panel and allow it to dry overnight, while I use the plane and sanding block to carefully fit the dry panel to the appropriate frame. I will then glue IT into the frame and allow it to dry. After which, the second panel can be fitted and glued in the following day. Once both are fitted and dry, I can order the appropriate hardware and fit that. Then remove the hardware and start the final sanding of the outside.

There will still be the INSIDE layout and fitting, and the velvet lining.. (A last step to avoid all the dust and chance of glue damage.)

[Sir Henry]

This project is coming along nice. You have a great wood shop.

[BrokenolMarine]

Back at it today. Not a mistake as long as you learn from it? I took the TOP panel out of the clamps and there was a short portion of one edge that didn't glue down tight. I injected some glue into the area, and applied a couple clamps and set the panel aside to dry overnight. Sheesh. You'll note that there were a couple spots where the clamps left blemishes. This is why I didn't worry about having the panels perfectly sanded prior to gluing them to the backing. The final sanding will deal with all the issues, including a couple spots that are still rough. Those really rough spots on the end will MOSTLY be trimmed away when fitting the panel to the frame.

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LEARNING from the previous day's error, you'll note if you scroll up to compare; I used a couple more clamps on the bottom panel glue up. Yeah, a couple more. This "should" eliminate any chance of a loose edge. But, you never know.

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Same process here as the last time. Trimmed both pieces to just over four inches wide, used a centering reference line and glued them on the backing panel and then applied the clamps. I'll let the panel assembly dry overnight. Tomorrow I'll remove the clamps and put them away where they all belong to get them out of the way, as well as the rest of the tools I won't need right away. Then start the first steps of the fitting process. No rush, all the time in the world. Don't want to screw this up this late in the game.

[Sir Henry]

Hey that one clamp doesn't match. Was it adopted?

[BrokenolMarine]

Getting the panels glued in. This entails planing the edges to the proper size then trimming the ends until they fit. Have to trim them to fit nicely, but don't want to over trim. Once they fit, apply glue to all four edges, slip them into place, and then clamp everything. I used the small clamps to set the depth when I dry fit the panels. I wanted the panels about a 32nd proud and when I roll the case edges in final sanding, I'll blend that edge. Much rather have that panel edge a bit high, than below the edge of the frame.

Did the bottom panel first, then left it overnight to dry.

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It came out of the clamps this morning, and looks okay. Of course, sanding and finishing will make it look MUCH better.
Now that the bottom assembly is out of the clamps, time for the top to go in. Trimming and fitting and then into the clamps to dry overnight.

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I'll post the pics of the top assembly when it come out of the clamps in the morning.
Amazingly, we haven't destroyed the project yet... it's almost time to order hinges, handles and the like!

[BrokenolMarine]

While the top assembly dries overnight, I managed to get out and do some sanding on the bottom assembly with the power sander and a sanding block wrapped with a medium (120 grit) sandpaper. While far from finished, we are beginning to get a feel for what the case will look like.

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[JEBar]

I'm certainly enjoying following this project, thanks for taking us along .... what do you project the case to weigh when complete

[BrokenolMarine]

Empty? Not much more than a good sized leather briefcase. Meh.. I'd guess... between seven and ten pounds. I am not going overboard on interior since this is the first attempt. No secret compartments, whatever. Lol.

[JEBar]

really looking forward to the finished product

[RanchRoper]

Looks great! When I'm ready for a pine box on Boot Hill, I'll give you a call....

[BrokenolMarine]

JEBar,

I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished project as well. I'm excited to see how it will turn out.

RanchRoper...

Believe it or not, I have actually considered making a mini-coffin, just to put my skills to the test. A well made box, really requires a lot of skill. A number of compound angles, inlays, tight fitting joints, and for top of the line: carvings. I'm not at that level yet.

[daytime dave]

JEBar,

. I'm not at that level yet.

Pretty close I'd say.

[BigAl52]

Im expecting a red velvet insert for a liner. Brass and red velvet go together real well.

[BrokenolMarine]

Funny you should say that BigAl, I already have the deep burgandy red velvet. (Seriously, I do...)

[BrokenolMarine]

Got the top assembly out of the clamps and put them away, got some sanding done. A trick to the work is to wipe down the piece with odorless mineral spirits. It lets you see if you missed scratches or dings, removes sanding dust, but most important of all: it shows you what the grain will look like with a stain applied. Then, it quickly evaporates without a trace. As you can see in the picture, It looks uneven because it's evaporating and it's already leaving ... But .. where the box is still wet, you get a taste of the grain with a medium cherry stain.

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There's more sanding, and I have dug around and found the piano hinges. I'll need to order the latches for the front and the handle. Unless... unless I decide to just make it a display case.. Sheesh... decisions, Decisions. What say you? Travel Case, or Display Case?

[BrokenolMarine]

I'm leaning towards travel case because that side panel on the bottom portion is TOO sweet to stay hidden as it would if it became just a display case. I'm just not sure about adding the handle and the feet.

[BrokenolMarine]

Sometimes, I hate that memory loss thing from all the anesthesia from these last four (or was it five? ) Surgeries. There are things I knew how to do, or techniques I should use that I just plain forgot. I was sitting in the recliner last night, reading one of the John Sandford novels for the seventh or eighth time... (Okay, one of the benefits of memory loss... ) and out of the blue, CARD SCRAPER popped into my head.

I have a dozen in the shop and a couple favorites are hanging right above the work bench. Exactly what I normally used to take down that high edge and smooth out that transition on the bottom and top of the case. Couldn't wait to get out there this morning and give 'er a try. A couple passes with the scraper gave me this:

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Another twenty minutes or so work gave me a much improved transition.

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The scraper takes a nice thin shaving, but you'd be surprised at how quickly the properly sharpened card scraper can remove wood. Beats the heck out of sandpaper, and cheaper too.

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After working on the top and bottom assemblies with the card scraper, I went over both with the sander, fitted with 120 grit paper. Later I'll go over the assemblies with 220, and perhaps 400. For now, I'll wait. I won't round the edges and shape the corners until the hardware arrives. I ordered it this morning, including the leather handle, since I decided to go with the "Travel Case" idea. Didn't want to waste that beautiful grain in the bottom assembly.

Can ya'll tell the difference after the hour or so work blending the edges this morning? Or is it just me? Wish you could feel how smooth they are.

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[BrokenolMarine]

As we draw closer to the end of the project, the smaller things become more important. I start to think about "What Finish?" One way to decide is to take all those cut offs you save.. (Knew I saved them for a reason...) .. and make finish samples.

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Some of the pieces have test stains on the back as well. After talking with the boss, Miss T and I agreed that the Watco Oil Cherry, the stain in the lower left corner, is the stain I'll most likely go with. Watco Oil is my most used finish. It soaks in and "treats" the wood, gives a nice even coat, and if it's not dark enough, you can reapply and darken 'er up. (in most applications.) In addition, if you want a soft gloss or high gloss, you apply a quality wax and then buff er out. Later, if it needs more shine, hit it with more wax, and boom, buff it and you are good. Ding it, hit the ding with watco, and then wax it, and it will match.

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Who's that fat guy? Oh wait, he's just healthy. That's someone I know, hard at work in the shop, bent over the lower table, filling the small worm holes and gaps.

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The wife says I'm anal about these things, but I really think that the little things make a difference. Fixing the knots in place with CA glue eliminates the possibility that they will fall out later and ruin the project down the road. There are some things where you have to decide if the risk of the fix outweighs the detail. I have some issues with the fit here and there and I have come up with solutions involving cutting 1/32" grooves with the plow planes, and then inlaying walnut strips for detailing. BUT... if I slip and screw up the grooves or the thin cherry of the book matched inserts split. Meh, the issue is not worth it on this project. A lot of the small details I notice, others never even pick up on once the stain is applied, the hardware is in place and the wax is buffed out...

[BrokenolMarine]

You guys must be thinking I have given up.
Nah... just been doing the donkey work, small detail stuff, and waiting for the hardware to come in so I could roll the edges.
Hardware came in yesterday.

Time to look at laying out the interior.
Laying out the hardware.
A first finish coat.
Still lots to do..
... but a lot closer to done.