Tractor Tires

[HenryFan]

I am in the process of buying a new tractor and there are two machines which appear to be a good deal. One has R1 (Ag) tires and the other has R4 (Industrial Tires). Same machine, different tires.

I plan to use the tractor for pulling a chisel plow and a disc harrow. Does one tire have any advantages over the other? I have never worn out a tractor tire so longevity is not an issue.

I know a form member or two has experience in this area and your guidance is appreciated.

Thanks - Henry Fan

[JEBar]

from what I've been told, the differences and advantages of R1, R3 and R4 tires for tractors -- R4 tires are wide and durable for hard surfaces, while R1 and R3 tires are suitable for off-road and turf use.

[HenryFan]

JE - Thank you.

[Mags]

...
I plan to use the tractor for pulling a chisel plow and a disc harrow. ...

You want R1 tires. The plow and disc as they dig into the dirt are going to act like an anchor and the tractor needs to overcome that. R3 and R4 are going to just spin with no bite.

[HenryFan]

Mags - Good advice. Thank you.

[Hatchdog]

For your application I agree that the R1 would be best. I have R1’s on my tractor and my neighbor who has a similar tractor has the R4’s. He hates them and struggles to get traction in the snow.

[daytime dave]

The ag tires are the way to go if you are planning any type of agricultural use for the tractor. Pulling anything ground engaging, like a chisel plow and a disc harrow, needs the ag tires. I prefer the ag tires on all but lawn mowing tractors.
My father got ag tires on all three of the Mahindra tractors that he purchased. When I asked him about the industrial tires, when I didn't know anything about them, he said they were somewhere between turfs and ags. Not really good for either, but a popular choice for those who can't make a decision.
Go with the Ag tires. They have the best tread for breaking ground, moving something through the ground and can even be decent on snow, not ice, for snow plowing or snow blowing without chains. (on level ground without ice) I put chains on my turf tired garden tractors and my John Deere 650 just to get traction in wet grass. Never mind going up hill. The chains make up for not having ag treads.
Ag treads are not good for a tractor that will be mostly mowing grass. They put tread Mark's into the lawn similar to the center warning cuts in most roads. The industrial tires are much more forgiving for lawn mowing and may not need chains on level snow removal. They are not good for farm related activities if that is all you use the tractor for.
This is my experience so far.

[Mags]

Mags - Good advice. Thank you.

You're welcome. I forgot to mention liquid ballast in the tires. The added weight will help with traction and stability. Liquid ballast is a must if you have a front loader.

[dave77]

I put chains on my turf tired garden tractors and my John Deere 650 just to get traction in wet grass. Never mind going up hill. The chains make up for not having ag treads.

I leave my chains on my cub year around, doesn't hurt the grass any. If I had a golf course level lawn it might not be good but my lawn has lots of lumps, bumps and low spots. Also has a fair amount of clover and dandelions, it's green and the clover may actually help, I can't remember the last time I fertilized it and it still grows too fast. I do occasionally spot spray the weeds to keep them from completely taking over.

[HenryFan]

Thanks all for the good advice. I called the salesman earlier and advised him I wanted the Ag tires rather than the industrial tires,

[GeoBoy]

I always ran Firestone 23 degree agricultural tires on all our tractors. Great traction and wearability.

[rickhem]

My tractor has the R4 tires, since that is what was on it when I bought it used. I have a plow for the snow that mounts in place of the bucket, with a hydraulic control to pivot it left or right. Mags comment about needing ballast with a front loader rings true for me when I plow, as that extra weight is even further out front with the plow, and I lose traction often while plowing. I also find that I need to engage the 4WD on some areas when running the rotary cutter, and grass with dew or just moisture from the cutting will inhibit traction in 2WD. The R4 tires are rough on the grass when you have to drive across it too, especially when turning. If/when the time comes that I need to replace the tires, it'll be either the R1 or the R3 tires, depending upon how I find myself using it over the next few years. Since I won't be doing any real farm work like plowing a field, leaning towards the R3 right now.

[HenryFan]

Rick - Thanks - HenryFan

[BrokenolMarine]

Tina used the Simplicity Legacy tractor to work the farm in VA, and when it came time to get new tires, she chose the ones shown on the tractor in the pic below. I don't know what they are called, or the type, but if you have been looking at tires you may know. She mowed with a pull behind finish mower rather than the under mower deck by this point and was careful not to turn HARD or use Brake Turns so the tires, even though aggressive, didn't tear up the yard. What they did do, it let the 4WD tractor do the work she needed done, including plow the deep snow in the winter and pull things. Lot's of things.

Simplicity was basically Massey Ferguson, bought by Japan.

New Tractor Tires.jpg (772.12 KiB) Viewed 3806 times

The tires really worked well for us in VA. We sold the tractor and all it's attachments when we moved, and bought a bigger tractor with a front end loader. Old Folks don't need to be close to a shovel and wheel barrow. But while we were there, we used this tractor a lot.

[Mags]

Tina used the Simplicity Legacy tractor to work the farm in VA, and when it came time to get new tires, she chose the ones shown on the tractor in the pic below. I don't know what they are called, or the type, ...

R4.

[The Happy Kaboomer]

Mags . You are cor4ect on the ballast..........They make a special adapter that you screw the water hose to fill the tire and it lets air out while filling the tire with water..........I turn the valve stem to the top......Jack the tractor weight off the tire. ....Remove the valve stem......I use a "turkey injector to add about a quart or more antifreeze to the tire......Then I screw the adapter & hose onto the valve stem......Turn on the water and fill the tire till water sprays out the adapter.......Reinstall valve stem........Add some air till correct pressure is met. Won't take much........Cap stem and go!
When I got my 50 HP John Deere all it had was air in the tires. All it wanted to do under load was spin.........After adding the water it was a completely
different animal..........Pulls now like a real tractor should
Also some makes of tractor have weighs that can be bolted on the rim centers to do the same thing.

[BrokenolMarine]

Believe it or not they fill the tractor tires here with Beet Juice.

[rickhem]

I need to look into this. My tires are not loaded with anything, and it's been suggested a number of times. From what I've read, the beet juice has a number of benefits, like higher density so more weight, and inhibits corrosion, so rim doesn't rot. I do need the extra weight though. Almost tipped it a couple times pushing trees off the edges of the fields, and loaded tires should help with that too. I have a weight box, but haven't used it yet, just sitting in the garage. Too many little projects, but that can be a good thing too.

[HenryFan]

Is there a risk of rim corrosion using antifreeze and water?

[Hatchdog]

My tractor is 20 years old and the dealer put a calcium mixture in the rear tires. So far after all these years my rims are not showing any sign of a problem but of course I’m not seeing the inside of them.