Challenge Build Along Post

[BrokenolMarine]

So, Some of you wanted to watch, here we go.
Here is the reference picture to start us off. Remember, in my projects, plans are just a guide. Let's see how the finished project compares to the initial idea. Sometimes reality rears her ugly head.

01 layout.jpg

I decided to start by cutting the thick copper bar. It's tougher than I thought when I bought it. Nickel Silver is a female dog to cut too. I clamped it down to the bench and got the angle grinder, face shield, and welding gloves. Water on standby for cooling. I had five cuts to make. A new cutting wheel and time and I made it thru the task.

02 copper cut.jpg

Next I began the shaping of EACH piece. There will be the two accent pieces against the front guard and then the two endcap pieces. I began with the first accent piece, rubbing it on a piece of 120 grit sandpaper to get all the rough edges off, then marked a reference edge that will face the blade blank. I WON'T try and achieve a final shape before glue up, just get it close.

03 just started the fit.jpg

You'll have to work with me folks, as Clint says, "A man's gotta know his limitations."
My time during each session is limited. I knocked out that first task, and had intended to come back out after lunch, but the hands said "NO."

I will be working again this morning, hopefully two or three sessions today. The temps outside are supposed to reach triple digits without the heat index. Lucky for me the mini-split system keeps the shop at a nice 70 degrees year round, 115 outside or 10 degrees.

[BrokenolMarine]

Back at it this morning, working on shaping the copper again. I marked the second this accent piece and it was ready to rough shape.

04 marked for rough shaping.jpg

I moved to the work table where two of the sanders are set up. There is the bench top belt sander, where I use the disk sander the most for this process. You can sand on the copper for about ten to fifteen seconds at a time, then it has to go into the water to cool. The cold water in the bowl stays cool for about three dunkings, then warms up from the heat transfer.

05 two of the sanders.jpg

The other sander that will get a lot of use in this process is the 1 x 30 belt sander. This is going to come in when I start shaping the assembled handle later in the build.

06 1 x 30 belt sander.jpg

I also have the second end cap marked for rough shaping, and alternate on shaping while the pieces are in the cooling bath. Miss time the cooling, or try and shape just a bit too long and you can get a nice burn.

07 end cap marked for shaping.jpg

The copper pieces are taking shape. It just takes time and patience.

08 taking shape.jpg

[BrokenolMarine]

Another option while the copper cools in the bath, was to set up the Wet Tile Saw and begin on the Turquoise. This is a messy part of the operation as the saw throws water. I got 'er set up, and marked both the thin piece that will become the accents on the ends and the thicker piece that will provide the two center slices between the black walnut scales. For those who have never used one, the wet saw has a water reservoir UNDER the table and keeps the blade wet so it doesn't overheat the material causing the "tile" to crack or fracture. In this case, my tile is real turquoise from the Arizona mines. NOT cheap so I don't want to break it by rushing.

09 tile wet saw.jpg

I take my time, feeding the pieces slowly and following my reference lines carefully. The cuts went well and I managed to cut all the pieces I need without shattering. Hooray for the home team. There is more to come, watch this space.

10 we are getting there.jpg

[rickhem]

So here come some questions, I warned you.

I see that your blade is taped, and it looks like it is already ground for your preferred edge type. Do you tape it to protect the edge while you are working with it, or to protect you from the edge?
And is it fairly common to get the grind you want to use all set up on the "blank" (or whatever it is called) before you start with the handle area of the knife?
Tell us about turquoise. I've really only ever seen it in rings and watchbands and stuff like that. Is it a very unforgiving material to work with, meaning brittle or easy to over-stress while you are cutting and shaping it? I see you are using a tile saw to cut it, so does it overheat quickly?

Really appreciate you letting us follow along.

[BrokenolMarine]

So here come some questions, I warned you.

I welcome all the questions you want to ask, I'm sure others have some as well. The one thing I won't do is blow smoke. If I don't know, I'll do you the courtesy of telling you I don't. Most of what I learned I learned from YOU tube.

I see that your blade is taped, and it looks like it is already ground for your preferred edge type.
I buy the blade blanks ready to work, normally from Jantz Supply in Davis Oklahoma or from Woodcraft on line. I had originally planned to forge my own blanks, however it was a matter of "knowing my limitations. After watching Forged in Fire and a couple other knife making shows, I realized the arthritis in my hands, shoulders, and elbows would let me know early on I would NOT be able to swing a hammer onto that anvil for very long, nor stand at the dang thing while I did it. So I made the choice NOT to invest in the equipment THEN discover I should just buy the blades and create artistic knives to the best of my ability.

Do you tape it to protect the edge while you are working with it, or to protect you from the edge?



I tape the edge to protect ME from the edge. I found that I poked and cut myself often, so the minute I take the blade blank OUT of the cardboard or plastic sleeve to begin working, I normally tape the edge. I often cut an edge protection blank from an old manila folder as well and tape THAT in place as well.


And is it fairly common to get the grind you want to use all set up on the "blank" (or whatever it is called) before you start with the handle area of the knife?

I have to, since I buy my blanks already made, and work my knives from there.


Tell us about turquoise. I've really only ever seen it in rings and watchbands and stuff like that. Is it a very unforgiving material to work with, meaning brittle or easy to over-stress while you are cutting and shaping it? I see you are using a tile saw to cut it, so does it overheat quickly?

I just started working with Turquoise, but have found that it is a brittle material to work with and you have to work slowly and carefully or it will crack and break easily. When you put it into a project, you want to make sure you have it supported, or placed in such a way it won't get stressed. I used a scrap left over from an inlay in another knife and was going to make Miss T a cross, inlaying the two scraps together. I was carefully filing a rabbit into the two pieces and spent a couple hours with jeweler's files... slowly and carefully forming the joint and when I attempted to test fit the piece I pushed a bit too hard and Boom, done. Nope, broke into lots of pieces. I go slow, and keep the pieces wet and cool as I shape them. For the most part all my final shaping is done by hand with small pieces of fine sandpaper. Once the glue up is done, and I am shaping the knives, I do sand them on the sanders, but in ten and fifteen second passes then dip them in the bath to cool.

Really appreciate you letting us follow along.

I really encourage the questions, I'm happy to share and it lets me know others are following the post. I also encourage input. If someone knows another way to do something, I'm happy to consider it since, as I have said, I haven't had another knifemaker around to teach me. My daughter asked me to make her a knife, and when I told her I didn't know how, she told me to look it up on you tube. Same with the sheath, "look on You Tube," she told me.

[BrokenolMarine]

I went back out for a little work, and marked the endcap copper pieces for a bit more work on the disc sander. Black felt tip shows where they need attention and shows up better than just the pencil lines. I grind "Almost" all the felt tip off then stop. When I glue up, I will do the final fitting with the pieces in place.

11 marked for more shaping.jpg

Before starting on the layout, cutting, and fitting of the black walnut scales, I decided to tool the spine. The first step in that process is to darken the spine so the layout lines will show up. You can buy a dye to use but I haven't yet. I cheat, and use a wide black magic marker.

12 darkened for marking.jpg

I use a GOOD ruler to mark every 1/2 centimeter. Then a square to transfer the line across the mark across the spine.

13 layout.jpg

Once I am satisfied with the layout, I take a triangle jewelers file and cut a notch on both sides of the spine to help guide the cuts. Using a triangle file lets me cut a NOTCH and avoid the file skating along the edge. Once the notch is cut I move to a small round file, and cut each notch into a dimple, then move UP in size and cut an oval shaped cut. Once I am happy with the final cuts, I use paint thinner to remove the black marker...

14 tooled.jpg

The spine will, of course, get highly polished toward the end of the build. I may also go back and look at the tooling a little closer before I start assembly, and round some of the edges in the individual areas to make the tooling flow better. I have just started with the tooling and am learning as I go...

[rickhem]

Thanks for those detailed responses.
I admire your work, and that you know where your skill set starts getting thin, but that you push into that regularly and make it stronger. I had some buddies that worked in the electronics lab at one of my former employers, and they'd build some fairly sophisticated control systems. I remember someone once asking them why two of the same units they built months apart were not configured identically, and they said that they learn as they build things, and the latest version they build always includes what they learned building the previous ones. Always thought that was a good way to go, and fits in with the whole "constant improvement" theme so prevalent in corporate worlds these days.

Anyway, another question. I see your vice has the jaws taped. Is there some soft wood under that tape, or what do you use to pad the jaws so they don't mar your work?

[BrokenolMarine]

I have an old pretzel jar filled with scraps of leather from sheath, holster projects. I find all kinds of uses for the pieces. From practice for tooling to padding the clamps and vise jaws...

[Hatchdog]

Looking good BOM and thanks for the detailed report. So interesting to understand how you get the results you do. Love those cuts in the spline, what a nice touch.

[BrokenolMarine]

Thanks guys, still a lot of work to do, like NASCAR, plenty of laps to go, plenty of time for that crash and burn.

[BrokenolMarine]

Or...

A photo finish.

[Hatchdog]

I’m thinking option #2.

[BigAl52]

Ya photo finish is going to be spectacular with that turquoise

[BrokenolMarine]

I'm hoping so

[BrokenolMarine]

A little afternoon work. First I smoothed the squared edges on the file work on the spine. I'll still do some polishing and work it until I'm happy, but for now, I see some improvement. The next time I attempt this style I will work harder to match the cuts, but I'm happy for now.

15 smoothing.jpg

Pucker time. I started on the thin pieces of Turquoise to butt up to the copper near the Guard. To look right, they have to be the same thickness. Checked them with the Micrometer. One was a good bit thicker than the other. The first measured around 0.1755 the other was around 0.1998. I also had to insure the bases of both pieces were square and flat.

16 measuring.jpg

To bring the thicker one down took a bit of time with wet sanding by hand. Turned on the CD player, and started working. 50 strokes and measure, 50 strokes and measure... about 500 strokes later, I was right on target. In THIS picture I am flattening the base. The 500 strokes were used to flatten the wider sides, and I made sure they were split between both the wide sides. This will insure good contact with the copper and the walnut.

17 sizing.jpg

I'll match up the thin pieces for the end cap copper, then cut the walnut scales. I'll have to match up the center Turquoise on three faces before we begin assembly. This hand sanding part is labor intensive, but very quiet. I like this part.

[BrokenolMarine]

Back at it this morning, last work until I make a trip to Jantz. I first marked the walnut blank for bookmatching, by smoothing both sides on the bench sander so they are flat, then marking a line down the center as a guide. I used a special tool for this that CUTS a line. Two passes from each side insures it's centered.

18 marking scales.jpg

Using one of my Machinist's 123 Blocks, I confirmed the blade on the bandsaw was still square to the table. Trying to bookmatch when the blade is off, even a few degrees, can ruin a good piece of wood.

19 123 block checks square.jpg

The key is to go slow and let the blade do the work, go too fast and you can get off track or burn the wood. Take your time and you end up with a nice bookmatch cut...

20 bookmatched walnut.jpg

I set aside the blanks and started marking the blade blank for the position of the prepped pieces I have worked on. I need to know where they will fit so I can get the measurements for the walnut sections. In addition, I am going to try and make this as balanced as I can, so the one hole in the blank is out of place. THAT will get filled with epoxy and ignored. I will drill another hole to balance the appearance of the scales.

21 layout of blank.jpg

A sneak peek at the proposed layout. There will be walnut scales on either side of the center Turquoise. I'll have to cut and tightly fit the four pieces of walnut. Each will be cut oversized and then carefully sanded to finally fit snugly into it's slot. (Well, that's the plan.)

Headed to Jantz on Monday. I need to pick up both a 3/32 and a 1/4 inch carbide bit for the pin holes for the blank. I need both copper and nickel round stock to make pins, and I'm going to break down and buy the blue marking dye for layouts in future projects. Mostly, I need the bits and round stock. Can't move forward without it.

[CT_Shooter]

Very cool, Marine. Your descriptions and photos clearly explain your processes and techniques and the posts are very enjoyable. Thanks again for sharing.

[rickhem]

The key is to go slow and let the blade do the work, go too fast and you can get off track or burn the wood. Take your time and you end up with a nice bookmatch cut...

See, another tidbit I can use. I always wondered why my cuts with by Father-in-Law's bandsaw always wandered. I even tried thinner blades to help follow some shallow curves, but they'd still wander. My cuts would usually wander, and I'd almost always burn areas when cutting. I can confidently say I was probably rushing.

[BrokenolMarine]

The trip to Jantz Supply in Davis was a success. Everything on the list was available and Miss T picked out a very nice set of synthetics for the next blade blanks.

In the pic below you can see part of the haul...

A selection of round rod stock... two sizes of copper and some 1/4" nickel silver to be used for pins for the scales and inlays.

Two sizes of Carbide Drill Bits, costly, but needed to drill thru the heat treated blade blank. We'll use those a bit later.

I broke down and bought a container of the blue marking dye, will make the pencil lines much easier to see when laying out future projects.

23 jantz goodies.jpg

The real expense on this trip was the dedicated Knifemaker's Vise. This thing will make life a LOT easier when tooling the spine or belly of the knife blank, or when shaping and or sanding/polishing the knife after assembly. I'll mount the base on a piece of 2x6 that can be attached to the work surface with clamps. the vise itself can be mounted vertically, and will rotate 360 degrees and lock in any position in that rotation.

24 vise vertical.jpg

You can also turn the vise on it's side to a horizontal position without ever removing the blade / knife assembly from the jaws, and still rotate thru that 360 degree range, still locking in position anywhere in the rotation.

25 vise horiontal.jpg

Should be back at work on the project tomorrow. I'm looking forward to it. The work will now move into the slow but steady pucker factor mode. Will be drilling holes in the blank and in the copper, cutting pins, and gluing up things in steps and stages before moving to rough shaping and sanding.

It's about to get interesting.

(If you have questions, ask... I've got nothing to hide. For example, one of the carbide bits? $21.00, but, unless I screw up, I should only have to buy it once...)

[BrokenolMarine]

I have managed to get in a few sessions in the last couple days, but NOT to get the pictures downloaded. Apologies to those who have been kind enough to follow along. I have had a few issues with health and didn't want to risk the project with less than 100% (or as close as I get to 100% ). First session back in the shop after the Jantz trip, I just put together a base for the new vise so it would be ready when I start the shaping process. It's 20 pounds, so it needed a solid build.

Went into the boathouse side where I store the wood and discovered the lights weren't working... power to the switch but not the plug. As far as I go, I'm not allowed on the ladder and my guy will come Friday and fix it. Sux getting old. Opened the overhead door, enough light to find a piece of old 2x6, which is what I needed.

This should work:

26 This should work.jpg

I normally work at the end of the woodworking bench for the final shaping working up thru the grits when hand sanding so I had been working out the design over the last day or so, I knew what I wanted. Here it is....

27 vise base mounted.jpg

As you saw in the previous pics of the vise, it can be mounted vertically or horizontally and swivel 360 degrees. Placed on the base and tested, it's solid as a rock.

28 solid as a rock.jpg

Done for that session after putting away the tools and cleaning up.