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[BrokenolMarine]

Had an errand to run for Miss T this morning, still down with her flu. Before I left, I applied the Watco Oil, it toned down that yellow a bit. I wanted to let the oil dry anyway, the errand will give the oil time to dry.

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Once it's dried, we can see what the antiquing does...

[BrokenolMarine]

Time to antique. First I pulled the jar of Dark Walnut antique and covered the entire panel. Not a doubt that it is one way to subdue the yellow.

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By the time I had covered the second half of the panel the first half had started to dry. I didn't want to let it dry completely so I started to wipe it away with paper towels. The secret here is to fold the towels and keep them flat to the surface. This leaves the antiquing in the areas where you want it. I worked quickly to insure the second half of the panel didn't dry. Some people like to let it dry and then remove the antique with a wet cloth. To each his own. You can always add more antique back or remove more with a q-tip or dampened cloth later. Right up until you apply your sealant or topcoat.

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I am pretty happy with the final result here. The golden undertone is the result of the yellow base, and the antique highlights all that tooling. I don't think I wasted those days ... The panel will be the background for the knife case, but will still look good behind them. Better than some burgundy velvet. (Although, that would have been classy.)

[BrokenolMarine]

I decided on the silk finish offered by Tan Kote, so I applied that. It looks good as it dries. While it did I got set up to work on the case.

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My first step was to dig out my Cabinet Scrapers, and sharpen two of them. Cabinet scrapers are quiet and controlled, like hand planes. VERY little mess, no dust in the air, and leave a glass smooth finish if you get them sharp. It took me a good while to learn to sharpen them, but once I did, I use them a lot on big jobs. You save a lot of money on sand paper.

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A close look at the scraper and the results, The hook on the edge of the scraper shaves fine shavings. When they dull, you just create a new hook and off you go.

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[BrokenolMarine]

Once I had looked at all the case parts, I was "almost" ready to move to assembly. I had learned my lessons in the past. Before final assembly, I conducted one LAST final test assembly with all the parts ready at this point. EVERYTHING fit.
I'll wait until I'm fresh tomorrow and do the glue up and assembly, putting this part of the assembly together, then building the lid with the glass and installing the lights. So Far, So Good.

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[CT_Shooter]

So Far, So Good.

Oh so good! Enjoying it. Thanks.

[Hatchdog]

I got so interested in the leather work I forgot about the wood work. Looking great!

[BrokenolMarine]

Had to make the two hour round trip to the dentist this morning.. so half the day was gone when I finally got into the shop. Disassembled the case as planned, carefully marking everything as I said I would and set aside the panel so I could prep the sides for staining. I wanted to keep the color light, so I planned Watco Oil Natural as the finish.

First, However, I have to tape off any surface that will get glue. Otherwise the glue won't bond well. That was a task, but necessary.

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Once the areas were taped off we were ready to begin. All throughout the project, I have referred to Watco Oils, here is a peek at the can for those who have never seen it. Home Depot carries a limited selection. Woodcraft a much wider selection, or you can order it online. It's a simple finish, wipe it on and let it soak in for a half hour or so, wipe off the excess, and allow it to dry, buff. Apply a second coat. Buff it out. You can be done at that point. I usually apply a coat or three of Beeswax, or any good wax. The real reason I like it is the ease of repair. Get a ding, patch or repair, apply the oil, buff, wax, done. No need to refinish an entire area in most cases. If you project begins to look dull, rewax and buff. Boom.

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Two coats of Oil and it's looking good, though still wet. I'll wax this before I assemble, then a second wax afterward.

[RetiredSeabee]

I just recently used Watco for a project for the first time. Based on your use of it on your projects. I have always used Minwax stains and a variety of finishes depending on what the item was going to be used for. For indoor items I preferred tung oil.
But finishing has always been so time consuming. I am now a big fan of the Danish Oil fast and easy and looks great. You might want to check into getting paid a sales commission from the manufacturer.

[BrokenolMarine]

I just recently used Watco for a project for the first time. Based on your use of it on your projects. I have always used Minwax stains and a variety of finishes depending on what the item was going to be used for. For indoor items I preferred tung oil.
But finishing has always been so time consuming. I am now a big fan of the Danish Oil fast and easy and looks great. You might want to check into getting paid a sales commission from the manufacturer.

I'm glad you liked it. I have used it for years and for the reasons stated above. It's NOT for weathered use, as you stated, but I do use it on knives, just wax them and treat keep them waxed when they start to dull. For heavy use knives, I'll used stains and varnish or tung oil, or even spar varnish... really tuff. LOL...

I love the Golden Oak Watco on light grained woods especially Birdseye maple. Boom, really makes it pop!

[BrokenolMarine]

Next trip to the shop was to wax the case sides. I have talked about the beeswax I use, so I have been sharing the brands, this is what I use. I ordered two cans from woodcraft the last time, and I'm still on the first. A little goes a long way. I heat the project I am waxing with a hair drying, just a bit, makes applying the wax easier, and, gets the wax into the pores of wood and or bone better... for deeper protection. NOTE: I heat the project I am waxing a LITTLE, the best way to insure you don't overheat the project is to hold it in your hand. Just before I start to wax I turn the hair dryer on the wax for about five to ten seconds to soften that. Yeah, I'm all full of tricks.

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I put two coats of wax on the four boards, without buffing between the first coat and the second. Then buffed them out with old sweat pant material. It picks up the wax really well. Then finally buffing with an old T-shirt. Good to go. I'll wax again when the project is done.

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Once I peeled off he blue tape, I took the pieces to the table, matched up the assembly marks, and used acid brushes to apply the glue. Got er glued up and band clamped.

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