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Gunstock finishing
- clovishound
- Drover
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Gunstock finishing
My buddy has a new walnut stock to go on his Springfield 03 A3. He has enlisted me to "help" him finish it.
I'll probably just bring it to my house and do the work, since this will take multiple applications. We have decided on an oil finish and he has bought a bottle of Truoil. I've never used that before, although I have a fair amount of experience using Danish Oil on a variety of wood objects.
The plan is to completely sand the stock smooth with 220 grit. Apply two 2:1 heavy coats of mineral spirits/Truoil with a wet sand using the mixture in between. I will then switch to full strength coats of Truoil with wet sanding using 320 until the pores are level, and then a couple coats using 0000 steel wool after curing and before the next coat. Number of coats will depend on how things progress. If he wants a full gloss, I can buff it when fully cured with white diamond and/or carnuba wax.
Any suggestions or criticisms? I do have some scrap walnut I could experiment on, however, IME oil finishes are very forgiving, and very easy to back up and punt with, as well as the time involved in progressing through the entire procedure with a scrap piece.
I'll probably just bring it to my house and do the work, since this will take multiple applications. We have decided on an oil finish and he has bought a bottle of Truoil. I've never used that before, although I have a fair amount of experience using Danish Oil on a variety of wood objects.
The plan is to completely sand the stock smooth with 220 grit. Apply two 2:1 heavy coats of mineral spirits/Truoil with a wet sand using the mixture in between. I will then switch to full strength coats of Truoil with wet sanding using 320 until the pores are level, and then a couple coats using 0000 steel wool after curing and before the next coat. Number of coats will depend on how things progress. If he wants a full gloss, I can buff it when fully cured with white diamond and/or carnuba wax.
Any suggestions or criticisms? I do have some scrap walnut I could experiment on, however, IME oil finishes are very forgiving, and very easy to back up and punt with, as well as the time involved in progressing through the entire procedure with a scrap piece.
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There is, I think, humor here which does not translate well from English to sanity. - Sanya
Re: Gunstock finishing
Please share progress as you proceed. I'm interested in seeing your step by step work.
As for a suggestion, go with White Diamond of Renaissance Wax. From my reading, carnuba wax has ingrediants I wouldn't want to see come in accidental contact with metal. Yes I know it gets used on car finishes, but those are painted.
As for a suggestion, go with White Diamond of Renaissance Wax. From my reading, carnuba wax has ingrediants I wouldn't want to see come in accidental contact with metal. Yes I know it gets used on car finishes, but those are painted.
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- JEBar
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Re: Gunstock finishing
absolutely agree .... step by step pictures with comments would really be interesting
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Re: Gunstock finishing
That system should work fine. The sanding from your first few wet coats should build up in the pours and help them fill in much faster.
Jim
Jim
Last edited by mlrifleNY on Fri Dec 28, 2018 9:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Gunstock finishing
I love watching an oil finish project developed. Looking forward to your pics and comments. Thanks for the chance to experience it vicariously.
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- clovishound
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Re: Gunstock finishing
OK, I finally got the stock from my buddy today. He had to order a new cap.
It's marked CMP, but is also marked Boyd's inside. The stock needed very little sanding, but had either a light oil finish, or most likely, a coat of stain. I went ahead and sanded it with 220 until I had removed all the oil/stain and any sanding marks. There is an area that transitions to the forearm that had some difficult to remove heavy stain right next to the transition. Called my buddy and he says it's covered by hardware, so I didn't spend a lot of time trying to even that out. He is adamant that I not spend a lot of time and effort to make it "perfect" as this is supposed to look like an armory gun.
Looks like it's going to be an easy project, just take some time letting the oil finish cure.
Here is is out of the box:
This shows the CMP logo:
Here it is after sanding and the first spit coat:
And a closeup:
It's marked CMP, but is also marked Boyd's inside. The stock needed very little sanding, but had either a light oil finish, or most likely, a coat of stain. I went ahead and sanded it with 220 until I had removed all the oil/stain and any sanding marks. There is an area that transitions to the forearm that had some difficult to remove heavy stain right next to the transition. Called my buddy and he says it's covered by hardware, so I didn't spend a lot of time trying to even that out. He is adamant that I not spend a lot of time and effort to make it "perfect" as this is supposed to look like an armory gun.
Looks like it's going to be an easy project, just take some time letting the oil finish cure.
Here is is out of the box:
This shows the CMP logo:
Here it is after sanding and the first spit coat:
And a closeup:
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There is, I think, humor here which does not translate well from English to sanity. - Sanya
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- Cowboy
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Re: Gunstock finishing
I am not going to criticize any ones method of finishing their stocks or what they use. I think the stock looks fine so far. Tru-oil is misnamed. It is not an oil finish. It is linseed oil with urathane base and probably some drying agents. Although the first few coats penetrate in a little they are not going to penetrate the wood like a real oil finish. Tru-oil builds up on the wood more like a varnish type finish and there is nothing wrong with that and I get great results with Tru-oil. Between coats you are better off to not use steel wool. Most steel wool is made in China and has some oil in it to prevent it from rusting during shipment. Using steel wool can also embed into the finish and go undetected and possibly show up later as little rust specks if used in wet weather hunting. The oil in the steel wool can cause those little dimples in the finish(fish eyes) and make you wonder what caused them to be there. Wet or dry paper between coats is much better than the wool and not as messy. I would have quit using steel wool even with out oil in it after getting in my feet when going in my work room in my bare feet and then have to try to find that little piece sticking me every time I put my socks on. I have another way of using Tru-oil that I better just not post it here and start a controversy on it not being able to work. I have probably finished over a 100 stocks with 2/3 of them done with Tru-oil. So it shows I really like it.
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- clovishound
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Re: Gunstock finishing
I have done a fair amount of finishing wood objects with Danish Oil. It is very similar to Tru oil, although much thinner. Sometimes I use steel wool later in the process, and sometimes not. I've never had issues with fish eye. Of course, Tru oil is not exactly the same as Danish Oil. I've always heard of fish eye being caused by silicone products.
I have tried synthetic steel wool, IE scotch pads, grey or white. They don't seem to level as well as real steel wool, but have the advantage of not shedding bits of steel.
One of the things I like about oil finishes, is the ability to easily repair them. They really shine, pun intended, with the hard, oily tropical woods.
BTW, I can handle criticism, as long as it's not just a personal attack thing, so have at it if you see something you have an issue with. I might not necessarily agree with you, but I will listen and consider.
I have tried synthetic steel wool, IE scotch pads, grey or white. They don't seem to level as well as real steel wool, but have the advantage of not shedding bits of steel.
One of the things I like about oil finishes, is the ability to easily repair them. They really shine, pun intended, with the hard, oily tropical woods.
BTW, I can handle criticism, as long as it's not just a personal attack thing, so have at it if you see something you have an issue with. I might not necessarily agree with you, but I will listen and consider.
3 x
There is, I think, humor here which does not translate well from English to sanity. - Sanya
- clovishound
- Drover
- Posts: 2108
- Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:18 pm
- Location: Summerville SC
Re: Gunstock finishing
Well, I had a little bit of a setback. After a couple coats of Tru oil, I noticed a couple of low spots near the butt. I should have block sanded the comb initially. I was a little concerned about over sanding and changing the profile at the transition to the butt plate. I was also lulled into a false sense of security because it looked so good to start with.
I carefully block sanded the low areas and am in the process of putting a couple of coats on the affected area.
I carefully block sanded the low areas and am in the process of putting a couple of coats on the affected area.
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There is, I think, humor here which does not translate well from English to sanity. - Sanya
Re: Gunstock finishing
How about brass wool as an alternative?Most steel wool is made in China and has some oil in it to prevent it from rusting during shipment. Using steel wool can also embed into the finish and go undetected and possibly show up later as little rust specks
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