New Project: Ticket Tumbler for Charity

[BrokenolMarine]

After installing the new blades in the planer last night, I couldn't wait to get out in the shop this morning and get started. I have been wanting to see how the drum would look with the side panels in place, and this was one of the critical steps... Get it right, we are golden. Blow it... have to back up and start a long process over. How will it go?

First step in the process?
I went thru the matched pairs and took a last look at all four possibilities for orientation. Which combo will present the best look. Once each choice was made, I placed that orientation on the bench and marked them. Then I marked the end of the pairs, numbering the two pieces so if they got separated, they could be matched back up. (Hey, it happens.)

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Once I was good with the choices, I set up the planer, and slowly fed each pair thru, cranking down a half turn after the twelve passes. A slow process, but it garnered the best results. You can't rush good results. Everything went well... ... almost. Grinnnnnnd. The planer grabbed a knot a single panel and tore a huge chunk out of it. That pair can't be used as is, for a side. I'll work on a solution as I work on the project. Add an extra window? Process the standby board and go thru the whole process so I have that extra panel? We'll see, part of the challenge. There are options, getting creative and making the damaged panel work so no-one can tell it ever happened. If you look at the panel on the far left, you can see the big chunk missing.

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Installing the panels takes multiple test fittings, careful trimming, and then finally, gluing and a couple brads on each side. Each side of the octagon takes two pieces. Test, trim, test, trim, test, trim... then attach.

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After about two hours in the shop, the prep work and then installation, I have two sections done. I had to take a break, but you have an idea what she'll look like.

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Looking at the saw table, you can see the strips from the careful trimming.

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Rather take a little at a time and ease up to the right size, than take just a little too much. You can't put it back. After a break to rest the knees and let things calm down, I'll be back at it again. I'll get the four panels I'm sure of installed and figure out what to do with the rest. It's part of the fun. My projects always... "ALWAYS" seem to develop on the fly.

[BrokenolMarine]

I love it when goodies come in the mail. But, before that happened... I went back out to the shop and worked a bit more. I put on the second two panels I was sure of. One trick to making sure you don't make mistakes... NOT that anyone "I" know makes mistakes... ever... involves chalk. You know... kids blackboard chalk.

You decide what you need to do, then use chalk to mark things so you don't get mixed up. Pencil lines are harder to see and sometimes hard to get off later. In this case, the GOOD side needs to go down, and the JOIN side needs to touch the fence, so...

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Working thru the same old process as before, trim, test fit, trim, test fit... I got the next two panels installed. The tumbler drum is taking shape.

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Then it was time for another break. After which I went down and found the mail man had brought goodies, the upgrades for the band saw. This is the band saw tensioner adjustment prior to the upgrade, note the small knuckle cracking adjustment knob on the top of the saw. It induces carpal tunnel if you have to make a lot of adjustments and change blades often during a project. But... I have used this setup for fifteen years.

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I have begun to have problems with blade tracking... and research suggests that a weak tension spring, and bad tires are two leading causes, so I ordered both. I replaced the tires about five years ago, but they were due. The spring is fifteen years old and probably long due. While I had the upper tensioner apart, I figured I would replace the crank with an upgrade.

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The upgrade to the tensioner didn't take too long, it would have just been easier with about three hands rather than two. One extra to hold UP the wheel assembly on the other side of the saw while I got the components on this side aligned and started in their proper position. That CRANK on the top of the saw, rather than the little knob will surely make things easier.

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Next came replacing the tires. THAT was a task. Basically they are giant rubber bands, 13-1/2 inches around, being stretched onto a 14" diameter wheel.

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Get them almost on, and POP... come flying back off. Eh... they eventually go on, but it would have been a lot easier with a couple extra hands, but really, there wasn't room for another person.

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I expect the saw to work a lot better with the upgrades and should find out in the next few days, I have some tasks for the saw upcoming in the project, and we shall see.

[BrokenolMarine]

I got back out late in the afternoon and got a little more work done on the tumbler drum, but much of it I didn't document yet. The one thing I did take a picture of was installing the paddles to "stir" the tickets when the drum is slowly rotated. Good thing I remembered that I wanted to put those in, if I hadn't, I would have had to get very creative. Look how tight the space is for the cabinet maker's clamps.. they are the only clamps with the reach!

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The rest of this session was spent prepping the wood to frame the two Windows, and to make the door and the last panel. I'll use the two sections of the previously prepped wood that chipped out, as panels in the center of "Rails and Stiles" assemblies for the door and last panel; and the windows of course will go into frames as well.

To start, I cut a two foot long section off the back up board, ran it through the planer to insure both sides were smooth, then cut it into 3/4 inch wide strips. I'll put a dado in one side and then frame the plexiglass in with that white oak to form the proper windows to fit two of the open segments. I'll build two paneled rail and stile assemblies and they will form the door and the final panel. We should be good to go.

I may not get to this all until Sunday, I am attending a Resawing Demo at Woodcraft tomorrow, and it starts midday, and it's about a 75 minute drive, each way. Of course there will be questions, and I need to swap out the router sign making kit I had that was missing all those letters when I finally got around to opening it.

Then I have to pick up a couple band saw blades, a 1/2" and a 3/16", and a magnetic fence for the band saw table. When I make the trip in, I like to pick up what I'll need over the next couple months so I don't have to run in again. Saves shipping. They get yah.

[BrokenolMarine]

I'm going to the class this morning on Resaw... so I didn't want to get too involved, but went out to check on the paddle installation and lay out the frames and see how they would work out. Ah... palm slap to the forehead... I came up short on the short sides, by about four little short pieces. I cut another 12" piece off the back up board, about double what I think I'll need, then ran that thru the planer, then across the table saw cutting it into the right width. I'll cut all the pieces to length as I build the frames. I have extra for all of them now, and MORE backup board if I need it. (Bite your tongue.)

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After cleaning up the sawdust from the past few days work, I took all the clamps off the tumbler drum and reassembled the project to see how it looked. This should give you an idea how the paddles are supposed to work. I think it will do the job. I wish I knew someone with a big bag of old raffle tickets so I could test this thing when I get the darn thing finished.

** Note that I have the paddles at the same angle rather than alternating as you normally see. This is because I want the paddles to push to tickets to one side of the drum then to the other rather than continue to push them to ONE side of the drum. I hope this will provide a thorough mixing of the tickets. We'll see.

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I should be back at work this afternoon, unless the day in town takes too much out of me. I hate dealing with the traffic and the idjits in the city. But, Woodcraft is usually an enjoyable way to spend some time. I have a few things I need, and I'll compare their prices to the ones I looked up on amazon last night. If they are close, I'll give Woodcraft the biz in exchange for the free Resaw demo they provided today. Education is always appreciated.

[BrokenolMarine]

Cut the rails and stiles yesterday.. time to make them accept the plexiglass.

Safety first... always use the proper push blocks and the like. The first task will be to cut the slots in the long side of the window frames, and I'll use a feather board to help hold the wood against the fence.

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To insure I keep all my fingers, I'll use a LONG push block to push the wood across that blade.

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I have ONE extra of the long stock so they will all go across.

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Next the short sides. Each short side is capable of producing two sides, so I'll put just five of the nine thru, and the others will serve as back ups in case plans change. Not that my plans ever change mid project.

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Shorter wood, shorter push block, for better control.

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Next, I need to set the blade angle back to 22.5 for the back edge of the long sides again. The long sides only, only they will butt against one another on the angled edges of the tumbler.

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using the feather board and properly set fence, a long push block and a slow careful pass, I get that knocked out. They fit nicely against the existing panels on the tumbler drum.

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Now we have all the materials prepped and ready to start.

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I followed my original idea and cut the first long side to length and cut the 45 degree angles.. Then one short side to match with the 45 degree angles... Ah... what's up with that... the angles, don't ... ah... match.

With the backside 22.5 degree angle, the 45 degree angle on the long side fades away and looks terrible. This isn't going to work. I gently lay that long and short side aside. (Since there is no one in the shop with me to say differently, that's my story and I'm sticking to it....) I gently laid aside the FAILED attempt, happy I have extras... (but NOW I don't.)

I sit in the rocker and stare at the tumbler... it says nothing. I stare harder... it remains mute. I turn up the radio...
Bingo, I decide to use butt joints, (since the project step is being an A$$)

I will also inset the long side so the edges are flush with the existing panels. This requires careful measurement and notching of the ends of the long rails. I have just the saw, and make the initial cuts. Then I take a very sharp chisel to square up the cuts for final fitting.

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I also have to reshape the short sides, removing most of the back side. Hey, par for the course. But, in the end, after measuring and cutting the first plexiglass panel on the band saw, the first window is test fitted and works.

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Time to break for lunch, then I'll make three more panels, one of which will end up being the door to access raffle tickets for the drawings. We are getting closer to the stage where we sand and finish and sand and wax and sand and polish.

[BrokenolMarine]

Worked on the windows again for the last session of the day, and got two sections done and glued up. Slow and steady makes the results better. I can't say the results are perfect, I always see things I could have done different, or better, but after two completed panels, I am done for the day. When I put in tomorrow's two panels, there will be a fixed panel, and then the one with the piano hinge and handle, the DOOR panel...

THAT will be interesting.

Slow and sure, checking and rechecking. Have to make SURE I don't blow that one. LOL.

Here is today's work....

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[PT7]

Woodcraft....and "cleaning up the sawdust from the past few days work." Smells delightful!

What do you think will be the final weight of your tumbler, Marine (sans raffle tickets)?

[BrokenolMarine]

Woodcraft....and "cleaning up the sawdust from the past few days work." Smells delightful!

What do you think will be the final weight of your tumbler, Marine (sans raffle tickets)?

The drum assembly is surprisingly light, but the solid oak pedestals and crank add weight, and I plan to add a base as well. I actually want the tumbler to have some heft to it so it doesn't jump around when cranked. I would guess.. (heavy on the guess right now...) between ten and fifteen pounds.

[BrokenolMarine]

I worked for several hours this morning, in two sessions, and got the final standard panel (of seven) completed, and then pondered the door. The techniques I had used for the panels wouldn't work for the door for the access hatch as they wouldn't offer enough strength. Time for the rocker again. I had been thinking of this moment off and on for the last couple days, at odd times certainly... So I had a good idea or two, but time to finalize the plans. I only had two of the long rails left, thanks to an ( ) error early on.

I needed strength, but not ugly. It needed to flow with the rest of the design, but handle constant opening and closing....
I came up with what I thought would work and got busy, and hopefully it will work. I thought I would show you guys some details, since I like posts with pictures. Scroll fast if you don't like lots of pics.

Cutting the notches for the panels starts with carefully marking the rails.

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Next I cut down to the dado with a fine tooth saw so it doesn't remove too much material in the second cut. The only problem with using this type saw, is the blade is a bit flexible and it will follow the grain if you aren't extremely careful. Them's the breaks. You don't use this saw if the fit is extremely critical.

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Next you put the rail in the vertical clamp and cut down to the horizontal cut, forming your notch. Again, wander can occur, but the chisel can dress it a bit if needed, or you can shape it with sandpaper with a few strokes.

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If you need to shape a shoulder on the dado, you can use a shoulder plane, and I used this one often making the final fitting of the plexipanels in the windows... handy little tool for all sorts of things.

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After putting together the last panel, only the hatch door was left... I was pretty pleased that we were at this point and the last panel looked good.

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I worked up the hatch panel, added some interior dividers, cutting dadoes to allow for separate glass panels in this hatch. They will add strength and stability. (I hope.. ) I dry fitted the entire piece, trimmed and re-fitted until I was satisfied.

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Lining the workbench with parchment paper hoping to avoid glue up problems, I turned the assembly upside down when transferring the parts and pieces, and reassembled it inverted, and glued it up. This way the facing side should be held flush by the bench face. (Not always... ... but better chance than face up. ) Once I was happy with the layout, I applied gentle pressure with the end vise... easy to over do it, and crack the glass. That would suck.

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Thought I might share a bit more of the layout and organization, while we wait for the glue to dry.
The case behind the work bench holds the most used tools, such as the fine saws...

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One of the drawers in the toolbox, holds the "Good" chisels, the ones that I try and keep sharp... It also houses some of the other specialty tools

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When I built my shop cabinet, I built a special two level drawer to store the hand planes, I try and keep their irons sharp and protected, and one way is to keep them protected from visiting hands. I was happy this drawer worked out as planned, it was another on the fly idea that just worked.

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Speaking of the cabinet... I built this cabinet to save space in the old, small shop. 12x20. The cabinet stored all my hand tools and supplies, I gave away all the plastic manufacturers cases, and bags, and each tool had a place to live. Made a huge difference. Miss Tina bought me that I-Box Jig for the table saw to make the drawers for THIS cabinet. Worth every penny.

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Anyway... hope the door works for the tumbler and you enjoyed the mini-tour. When the glue dries, we still have the hinge to put on, and I have to decide if the magnetic closure idea will work or if I will have to use a latch.

[CT_Shooter]

hope... you enjoyed the mini-tour.

I did enjoy the tour. Thanks for sharing your craftsman's skills with us, Marine, and for showing us your beautiful workshop. I look forward to each new installment.

[BrokenolMarine]

Scroll Saw Work... I haven't used the scroll saw in about ten years. I bought it for the wife to have some wood working to do... she used it a lot, for about a month, and moved on. It sat in the corner of my shop for years, then she used it again. Once. Then it sat. NOW, I have used it for this project, but will use it for about three or four knife scale projects.

(Before I forget... ) Thanks CT, glad you enjoyed the tour! If there is anything else you would like a closer look at in the shop...

Anywho, I got out the scroll saw and set it up...

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Then used it to cut out the Curly Cherry letters I had drawn out with the stencil set that Woodcraft replaced Saturday. Oh, don't worry, this isn't the final look I'm going for, nor the final layout.

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I have a lot of sanding and shaping to do... I never just stick stuff on. If I break a letter or two shaping them, I have the saw still set up and the extra curly cherry waiting in the wings. It's been a long time since I tried Scroll Saw work, and I have never done the raise letter sign stuff. Wish me luck. When the girls stop turning the drum and open the tumbler to pull a ticket, THAT is a panel that will face the crowd.

[BrokenolMarine]

Miss Tina reminded me that Our Guy's logo wasn't all Caps... and I needed to take another look at it...

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Sheesh...

The man does a lot of good things for the military, and I want to do right by him, so I spent some time at the computer and designed another pattern, and then some time at the saw this morning, and re-cut the logo. Of course, there is still the sanding, and the shaping, and sanding and smoothing...

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[BrokenolMarine]

After the morning's work with the Scroll Saw I took a lunch break. We have started watching Deadwood again, the complete series... I love the fullness of the characters and the creative plots... plus I love westerns. We throw in an episode and enjoy lunch, and maybe a second episode while my broken ol Marine body rests.

Then, back at it. The afternoon task mainly involved the sanding and shaping of the letters I cut out this morning. First step was sanding away the marks left by the penciled stencils I cut out and smoothing the back sides. I do this by placing a full sheet of 120 grit on the table saw table, which I know is flat and stable. I hold it in place with one hand and rub the letters across, going with the grain, then flipping them. Ten or fifteen passes on each side usually does the trick. I mark a reference on the back side, and then I make the initial angled passes on the edges, where the shapes allow, before moving to the work bench and thin strips trapped in the bench vice, much like a razor strop. Wouldn't want to roll the wrong edge.

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Working the letters slowly, rolling the edges across the "sandpaper strop" always watching the reference mark, there is no hurry. I work my way thru the stack until all the letters have been done. It's slower than a router table, but much safer, and loads quieter. Retired, no rush. I get to keep all my fingers, rather than trying to feed letters this small against a spinning router bit.

I have laid them out to check the size and appearance, but haven't glued them in yet. There is still trimming to do on the tumbler body and some sanding to do. I did mark and drill the holes for the hinges, but again, there are more steps before I am ready to install hardware, sanding and finish to apply.

The new logo worked out pretty good in both size and appearance. Done for the day unless I get antsy this evening after dinner.

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[BrokenolMarine]

You might note that when I laid the letters out in the cherry blank, I straddled the change in the color vein for the visual appeal. A small thing few will notice, but it matters to me.

[PT7]

While you were "on break" waiting for the glue to dry yesterday, Marine, I enjoyed the cool photo shoot you posted of all your tool storage drawers. You have a wood-working tools inventory that seems to be more than a lot of hardware stores have in stock! Easy to see how much you enjoy everything in your shop. Thanks for keeping us by your side as you work.

[BrokenolMarine]

Thanks. Keep in mind these were acquired over many years, and I saved a lot of money by not smoking, drinking, partying on the weekends... etc. The peek was just the tip of the iceberg, but I bought on sale and took things in trade... otherwise I wouldn't have come close to affording the quality set up I have.

In addition, miss t and I set our priorities... cruises, long vacations, fancy trips... not our thing. We spend the money on home and substance. Tools, supplies for hobbies, fishing gear,... Then you don't need a vacation.

[BrokenolMarine]

Got trapped in the house today, while the Misses ran to town. I had to watch for the gas truck to make sure they didn't top off the propane tank when we were only down 10%... especially while the prices are up due to the hurricane issues in Texas. We don't use much during the summer, just cooking and to run the auto-generator for it's weekly test run on Wednesdays.

I also spent nearly an hour on the phone with Verizon... we are having an issue with our internet, and have been for a long time... they send someone out, he tells us the system is overloaded and no hope in the future of a lighter load, and tries to switch us to a better hub, cleans up the box at the corner a 1/2 mile up the road, and we do better for about a week or until the next hard rain... Then I call again and they read from their script, do this, turn that on or off, let me check this or that... for forty-five minutes.

Gee, there seems to be problems on the line, I'll send someone out.

Oh, where were we?

Oh, yeah, short session.

Anywho's... got out last night for a few minutes, and stained the logo... it dried overnight and the grain really looks good now. Will make a nice contrast against the natural oil stain on the White Oak once I apply that.

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My main goal was to stabilize the hatch door. I gathered the tools and got busy. First a pilot hole with the small bit, then a counter sink hole. Then dip the copper brad in glue and sink it with the small hammer, and counter sink with punch. Repeat twice at each of the braces. I need the door to last.

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There was a noted increase in stability of the hatch once I finished the task at hand. Next task is to set the magnets and matching washers in place, but that will be a job for after dinner or tomorrow. Most likely, tomorrow. Long day.

[BrokenolMarine]

Got out last night for an hour or so... and got the magnets done. Four quarter inch rare earth magnets have a lot of holding power, should keep the hatch closed once the door and matching face are installed.

Here is the reinforced door in place, it took about ten minutes to get the idea where the door would strike, peeking thru the window on the back side, then realizing I could just measure and mark with the mini-square, then confirm with the peek in the back window. (palm strike on the forehead.)

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The rest of it was careful set up of the table saw to make the cuts on the face where the washers would be mounted, which had to have an edge cut at an angle to insure proper glue up. (That algebra from school finally paid off) Then set up on the drill press table to drill the holes to set the washers and magnets in place using a forstner bit. I checked the depth with a digital micrometer. This time with a NEW battery so it worked.

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Once all the holes were drilled and the magnets installed, I test fitted the door and the strike plate. (face) They fit great, but ... the magnets were so strong, the door pulled the face plate right out every time I removed the door. Hard to test this design aspect. I'll have to install this portion as soon as all the sanding is done. The hinges have been tapped, but removed. I need to decide on the handle as well.

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About time to start thinking about finishing the pedestals, base, and the crank, and we are close to the point where only Finishing remains.

[BrokenolMarine]

A full morning to say the least...

Started with the installation of the strike (face) plate with the washers, for the magnets to lock on.


Lots of measuring, fitting, and crossing of the fingers. Finally, I applied the glue, fired up the compressor and attached the brad nailer and went for it. I got it installed and clamped to insure good glue up. It wasn't exactly where I wanted it.... ... but it was dang close.

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What to do while the glue set? I guess it was time to start smoothing the 22.5 degree contacts on the outside of the drum. I knew this was coming and I had been giving it a lot of thought. I knew I WASN'T going to use power tools, I didn't want a slip to ruin a Plexi window, which could NOT be easily (or at all) be replaced. I settled on my favorite plane, with a razor sharp iron. Slow smooth passes, shaving away just a bit on each pass, then sanding the final bit away until they match.

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Some just needed a bit of dressing, but there were a couple that slipped during drying that were a bit out... (okay, more than a bit.)

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Still, the same process applied. Careful passes with the plane, just a lot more of them, and rolling the edge more. Then blending with the sanding block. I think it looks fine. But, that's me.


Next up, was a defect in the panel where the logo would go. A beautiful knot, but it had a fault that went all the way thru, a hole into the tumbler. Those who follow my posts know we can fix this with CT Hot Stuff Glue, but it takes a long time. Not anymore, there is an accelerator, but I never tried it. Miss T saw some on our last trip to Woodcraft, and ... it's amazing. SECONDS. It works in seconds.

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The repair looks great and from start to final sanding was about twenty minutes.

Here is where the problem came in. I put the hatch door in place and attached the right side hinge, no problem. When I flipped the left side hinge over, the problem was apparent. The holes were off.

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Spacing I guess, the various additions or changes had caused a shift. If I went ahead and installed the hinge like this, it would pull the door out of alignment. What to do?

Luckily, there is a magic trick using a simple household item. Sit back and I'll share it with you. All you need is a couple round wooden toothpicks and some glue.

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Cut the toothpick in half at the widest point and insert it fat end down in the hole to be filled... of course if you have a much fatter hole, you can use a couple, using the sharp end. and forming a wedge. In this case, the size was perfect. Touch a pencil lead to the pick and spin it to mark your pick. Cut to length. Cover in glue and insert in the hole, move to the next and repeat.

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Once all the holes are filled, sand them flush and you are ready to drill new holes that are centered and insert the new screws to install your hinge.

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This trick also works if you just have a loose screw on your door hinge. Remove the screw, dip a pick in the glue and insert into the screw hole, then reinsert the screw.

[BrokenolMarine]

You may remember the copper brads in the edge of the hatch...
A dab of glue and some sawdust...

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.... makes the countersunk brads disappear. When they have dried a bit more and I hit them with the sanding block, you won't really notice them at all. Larger items you'd want to use wooden plugs oriented to match the grain, or something in constant view as well. But for these... this trick is certainly adequate.

This tumbler is VERY close to having finish applied. After lunch I'll add the YakAttack logo, and then sand the edges... then that Natural Oil finish will get rubbed on...

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