That's why we didn't get self cleaning. We usually put a pan UNDER The pan we are baking in to catch drippings. If something boils over, we clean the cook top that evening, never letting it go and go and go, until you have to replace the surface. We bought a home with a gas stove in it years ago and would have had to replace the burners, the top, and the drip pans. Let's just say the previous owner hadn't cleaned well. When we sold the place the stove we put in still looked new. (okay, the coatings had burned off the various parts exposed to flames, but the enameled surfaces were clean and rust free and the drip pans were still bright and shiny.)DsGrouse wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 4:16 pmThat looks awesome.
I've had two problems with the last half dozen gas ranges I've had. At some point, someone turns on the self-clean function, which cooks the oven's thermostats causing them to prematurely fail.
I'm sorely frustrated with my current oven. It will only turn on if you turn it on to 400. If you open the door, the oven shuts off and will not reheat until it is under 200 degrees.
I've kids in college, and other priorities right now. Other wise I would be replacing the oven and stove top.
Spring has sprung. Get out and shoot your Henry
Kitchen Range Project
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5832
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Kitchen Range Project
2 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5832
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Kitchen Range Project
Out in the shop for a couple sessions today. First, I got the shelves properly spaced and marked so that I knew where they were going to be located. That let me know where I had to drill.
I set those aside after disassembly and it gave me room to work. Back to the chop saw and I cut the pieces for the base. I needed the three pieces for the top and sides then three spacers to keep the sides square. I got those test fitted, and was happy, one piece was a hair too long but that could be trimmed later. The base won't be seen at all anyway.
I set up the table saw to rip all the various pieces to width. Feather board to keep the pieces against the fence and a push stick to protect the old hands.
I cut all the pieces for the spice rack at 3-1/4" wide. I cut the sides for the base to width to produce the proper height combined with the top, then the top to the same 3-1/4" width to match the spice rack. I cut a 6" piece to the same width as the sides, then cut it at the width of the gap between the sides to use as spacers and decided I only needed one for each end, inset about an inch. (Otherwise the screws for the top would strike the screws holding the spacers coming in from the sides.)
That done, I measured and marked all the holes to be drilled, and drilled ALL the holes on the drill press needed for assembly in both the spice rack and the base. Then I Re-assembled the base and used a pilot bit marked with tape for depth to predrill into the board to which the screw would feed. Assembly was accomplished.
I reassembled the spice rack, and clamped it all together. As I moved to each position I used a rawhide mallet to tap the piece into the alignment marks and checked them with a square. Then, with the pilot bit, drilled the holes to the proper depth using the predrilled holes as guides. Screwed that segment together and repeated the process working my way around, two screws at a time. CHECK and recheck each pair before drilling and screwing the joints.
After slow and steady progress, working my way slowly around and assuring alignment... the spice rack was finally assembled. It was solid and stable.
I took it, the base, and the drawer slide in to test fit it beside the stove. It was a good fit, and looks as if my design will work fine. There may be some adjustment needed to the drawer slides to make them match up as I allowed a bit of leeway. Better to need a bit of shimming, which is no issue, than to have the assembly too tall, which would be a major issue. I have about a quarter inch of play which I won't worry about until the countertop is completed. Shims on the bottom of the base or under one or both of the Drawer Slides will adjust for the spacing.
Miss T was pleased. Now to look at mounting the dowels to keep the spices INSIDE The racks and do some sanding. I thought of some additional options while I was recovering from the day's labors.
I set those aside after disassembly and it gave me room to work. Back to the chop saw and I cut the pieces for the base. I needed the three pieces for the top and sides then three spacers to keep the sides square. I got those test fitted, and was happy, one piece was a hair too long but that could be trimmed later. The base won't be seen at all anyway.
I set up the table saw to rip all the various pieces to width. Feather board to keep the pieces against the fence and a push stick to protect the old hands.
I cut all the pieces for the spice rack at 3-1/4" wide. I cut the sides for the base to width to produce the proper height combined with the top, then the top to the same 3-1/4" width to match the spice rack. I cut a 6" piece to the same width as the sides, then cut it at the width of the gap between the sides to use as spacers and decided I only needed one for each end, inset about an inch. (Otherwise the screws for the top would strike the screws holding the spacers coming in from the sides.)
That done, I measured and marked all the holes to be drilled, and drilled ALL the holes on the drill press needed for assembly in both the spice rack and the base. Then I Re-assembled the base and used a pilot bit marked with tape for depth to predrill into the board to which the screw would feed. Assembly was accomplished.
I reassembled the spice rack, and clamped it all together. As I moved to each position I used a rawhide mallet to tap the piece into the alignment marks and checked them with a square. Then, with the pilot bit, drilled the holes to the proper depth using the predrilled holes as guides. Screwed that segment together and repeated the process working my way around, two screws at a time. CHECK and recheck each pair before drilling and screwing the joints.
After slow and steady progress, working my way slowly around and assuring alignment... the spice rack was finally assembled. It was solid and stable.
I took it, the base, and the drawer slide in to test fit it beside the stove. It was a good fit, and looks as if my design will work fine. There may be some adjustment needed to the drawer slides to make them match up as I allowed a bit of leeway. Better to need a bit of shimming, which is no issue, than to have the assembly too tall, which would be a major issue. I have about a quarter inch of play which I won't worry about until the countertop is completed. Shims on the bottom of the base or under one or both of the Drawer Slides will adjust for the spacing.
Miss T was pleased. Now to look at mounting the dowels to keep the spices INSIDE The racks and do some sanding. I thought of some additional options while I was recovering from the day's labors.
3 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5832
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Kitchen Range Project
A look at the test fit, a visual for the description of where it goes and what it will do. Yes... it will block that plug, but it's only used for the range. I'll make the counter extension removable if the plug should by some twist of fate need serviced, but that's not expected. The spice rack itself will be able to be removed by the clips on the drawer slides.
Next it was time to set the dowels that would hold in the spices to keep them from spilling out the sides. Originally I was going to cut notches in the sides and seat the dowels. I might have gotten fancy, cut the notches shallow and then routed the bottoms rounded for a nicer look. Sometime over the last few days I came up with a better plan. The dowels were not going to have a lot of stress... so I carefully measured and marked a location for each dowels center on the OUTSIDE of the end boards and then drilled thru from the outside with a 3/32 bit. I cut the dowels to length to fit inside then drilled into the dowels on the inside, from the outside.
I drilled and pinned each dowel on both ends with a 2" finishing nail, leaving the heads proud until they were all in place.... THEN... I went back and one at a time pulled each nail and coated the shaft with tightbond II glue and set them with a punch an mallet.
The spice rack was doweled, and I think it looks much better this way.
As for the base, I cut a pair of "Lifts" from scrap and glued and clamped them to the bottom. I'll measure the overall height of the base once the clamps come off tomorrow and if necessary, I'll plane off any excess lift. We WILL Have a perfect fit when the time comes. Adapt and overcome any issues.
Tomorrow I'll start on the cutting board top. Sanding can wait until last....
Next it was time to set the dowels that would hold in the spices to keep them from spilling out the sides. Originally I was going to cut notches in the sides and seat the dowels. I might have gotten fancy, cut the notches shallow and then routed the bottoms rounded for a nicer look. Sometime over the last few days I came up with a better plan. The dowels were not going to have a lot of stress... so I carefully measured and marked a location for each dowels center on the OUTSIDE of the end boards and then drilled thru from the outside with a 3/32 bit. I cut the dowels to length to fit inside then drilled into the dowels on the inside, from the outside.
I drilled and pinned each dowel on both ends with a 2" finishing nail, leaving the heads proud until they were all in place.... THEN... I went back and one at a time pulled each nail and coated the shaft with tightbond II glue and set them with a punch an mallet.
The spice rack was doweled, and I think it looks much better this way.
As for the base, I cut a pair of "Lifts" from scrap and glued and clamped them to the bottom. I'll measure the overall height of the base once the clamps come off tomorrow and if necessary, I'll plane off any excess lift. We WILL Have a perfect fit when the time comes. Adapt and overcome any issues.
Tomorrow I'll start on the cutting board top. Sanding can wait until last....
2 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5832
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Kitchen Range Project
Out in the shop yesterday afternoon, and preparing to put some finish on the spice rack. First I needed to remove any marks on the rack. The pencil marks were easy... used a pink eraser. The chalk marks, a damp cloth. Glue residue from price tags or bar codes, Acetone. But, the blade burn marks from too slow passes thru the table saw... ?
My fault, and normally take a lot of sanding... but old men know some tricks. An old woodworking friend taught me one that saves time and lots of money, sand paper is expensive. Use a cabinet scraper. Once you learn to "sharpen" one... it's a breeze. YouTube videos teach various techniques and I tried several and eventually found one that worked. My key was buying an actual burnisher rather than trying to cheap out and use a screwdriver shaft.
Anywho... once I cleaned the spice rack up, and was satisfied, I applied Watco Oil in Golden Oak. I applied two coats then left 'er overnight to dry. I was pleased with the look. the rack will contrast nicely with the darker finish the oak face will have when you pull out the rack to access the spices.
Miss T is happy with it, guess that's all that matters. This morning I started on the cutting board top, using the planer and the table saw to bring the rough cut slab down to a more final dimension. I'll still have to do some finish sanding on the top, and front face, but I got 'er close. About an hour's work after using a rule to square off the edge and free handing it across the table saw to achieve a true edge then using the fence to get the working width I wanted. We should be golden.
My fault, and normally take a lot of sanding... but old men know some tricks. An old woodworking friend taught me one that saves time and lots of money, sand paper is expensive. Use a cabinet scraper. Once you learn to "sharpen" one... it's a breeze. YouTube videos teach various techniques and I tried several and eventually found one that worked. My key was buying an actual burnisher rather than trying to cheap out and use a screwdriver shaft.
Anywho... once I cleaned the spice rack up, and was satisfied, I applied Watco Oil in Golden Oak. I applied two coats then left 'er overnight to dry. I was pleased with the look. the rack will contrast nicely with the darker finish the oak face will have when you pull out the rack to access the spices.
Miss T is happy with it, guess that's all that matters. This morning I started on the cutting board top, using the planer and the table saw to bring the rough cut slab down to a more final dimension. I'll still have to do some finish sanding on the top, and front face, but I got 'er close. About an hour's work after using a rule to square off the edge and free handing it across the table saw to achieve a true edge then using the fence to get the working width I wanted. We should be golden.
2 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- Sir Henry
- Administrator / Owner
- Posts: 12237
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:58 pm
- Location: Price County Wisconsin
Re: Kitchen Range Project
I just got caught up on your project. Looking good.
0 x
Hi, my name is Gene and I'm a Henryholic from Wisconsin.
Range Reporter: Henry Repeater
Range Reporter: Henry Repeater
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5832
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Kitchen Range Project
Between the work yesterday, and some work this morning, I have the two pieces worked to nearly the final size. The piece on the left is the piece for the spice rack side and it's the proper thickness and width as well as cut to length. I just need to do the final sanding and then I can start to assemble and install that piece. The only thing left will be the oak faux door and the oak kickplate for trim on the bottom, the false front for the base.
The slab on the right is the counter top for the storage cabinet. It's the proper thickness, but has NOT been cut to length or width, waiting for the installation of the spice rack side, so I'll know the width available for the storage side.
I am getting there. I am going to use a medium walnut or natural watco stain, followed by a sealer of some sort. They are going to be used daily and I want to protect them.
The slab on the right is the counter top for the storage cabinet. It's the proper thickness, but has NOT been cut to length or width, waiting for the installation of the spice rack side, so I'll know the width available for the storage side.
I am getting there. I am going to use a medium walnut or natural watco stain, followed by a sealer of some sort. They are going to be used daily and I want to protect them.
0 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5832
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Kitchen Range Project
I got out into the shop for a while yesterday, and with the planer set up, brought the second slab down to 1-1/2 inch thickness, then trimmed the sides of the rough finish then cut it to the proper width. I have NOT cut it to the proper length yet as I need to decide on the final layout for the storage cabinet. I am still bouncing that design in my head.
I did, however, sharpen the cabinet scraper and remove the roughness from the end of that slab. If you look in the previous post, it looks like that slab has a 5 o'clock shadow on one end. The planer kept pulling up the grain due to the burl. The scraper did a good job after about a half hour of work.
The keys to good results with the scraper are a nice burr on the edge and keeping the right angle on the card when you pull it. It took me a while to learn both, but as you can see, it's doing the job now. Would have taken a lot longer with sandpaper... and cost a lot more.
Next, I collected some of the scrapings to use to fill a hole on one of the top sides of the countertop slabs. Best way to do this is to pack it down tight then use my special super glue.
Since the hole was caused by the failure of a knot, I have a technique I use. I pack the hole with sawdust or scrapings from the same wood, then "dye" the scrapings with a permanent marker. I'll pack the hole with repeated layers until we are within about a 1/16" of the top. I use a tool from my leatherworking bench to pack the scrapings in tight.
The glue on this smaller hole is the Medium Viscosity Super T from Satellite City. There is a Thin for thin cracks and a very Thick for larger gaps.
I fill the hole once the build up is complete and add enough glue to leave the hole "proud." I come back the next day and slice off the top with a very sharp chisel then sand it flush and polish it clear with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper. It will look like clear glass and the black underneath will show through.
In some instances, the glue will shrink a bit and settle. You add another layer, proud, and then sand smooth when it finishes proud and can be sanded flush.
I did, however, sharpen the cabinet scraper and remove the roughness from the end of that slab. If you look in the previous post, it looks like that slab has a 5 o'clock shadow on one end. The planer kept pulling up the grain due to the burl. The scraper did a good job after about a half hour of work.
The keys to good results with the scraper are a nice burr on the edge and keeping the right angle on the card when you pull it. It took me a while to learn both, but as you can see, it's doing the job now. Would have taken a lot longer with sandpaper... and cost a lot more.
Next, I collected some of the scrapings to use to fill a hole on one of the top sides of the countertop slabs. Best way to do this is to pack it down tight then use my special super glue.
Since the hole was caused by the failure of a knot, I have a technique I use. I pack the hole with sawdust or scrapings from the same wood, then "dye" the scrapings with a permanent marker. I'll pack the hole with repeated layers until we are within about a 1/16" of the top. I use a tool from my leatherworking bench to pack the scrapings in tight.
The glue on this smaller hole is the Medium Viscosity Super T from Satellite City. There is a Thin for thin cracks and a very Thick for larger gaps.
I fill the hole once the build up is complete and add enough glue to leave the hole "proud." I come back the next day and slice off the top with a very sharp chisel then sand it flush and polish it clear with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper. It will look like clear glass and the black underneath will show through.
In some instances, the glue will shrink a bit and settle. You add another layer, proud, and then sand smooth when it finishes proud and can be sanded flush.
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You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- markiver54
- Deputy Marshal
- Posts: 10333
- Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2018 11:49 am
- Location: Biue Ridge Mountains, NC
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5832
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Kitchen Range Project
Out in the shop again. First step for the day, I sanded the repaired hole and it had, as expected, shrunk down in the hole. I cleaned out the sawdust, and reapplied the glue to proud, and set he walnut blank aside, and looked to cut out the poplar for the storage cabinet. Set up the chop saw and vacuum, reviewed the sketches drawn the day before and started cutting. Once they were cut out I put the chop saw away, set up the table saw, and ripped them all to width.
Once I had ripped all the main pieces, I took one of the side panels and set up the saw for a rabbit cut. This rabbit will support the bottom edge of the 3/16 ply that will serve as the side panel to keep the cookie sheets and muffin pans contained. Two passed over the correctly set saw blade cut the rabbit. (If you are going to cut a lot of this rabbits, you install a dado blade and the repeatable cuts are made in one pass.)
There was a small ridge in the rabbit, to remove that ridge I needed to choose a plane... what plane would do this job? I needed to check the upper and lower shelves in my custom built plane drawers:
Hmmm, the decision wasn't that hard. It's all in a name, I chose, a rabbit plane. MADE for just this job.
now that the rabbit was cleaned up, I could move on.
Once I had ripped all the main pieces, I took one of the side panels and set up the saw for a rabbit cut. This rabbit will support the bottom edge of the 3/16 ply that will serve as the side panel to keep the cookie sheets and muffin pans contained. Two passed over the correctly set saw blade cut the rabbit. (If you are going to cut a lot of this rabbits, you install a dado blade and the repeatable cuts are made in one pass.)
There was a small ridge in the rabbit, to remove that ridge I needed to choose a plane... what plane would do this job? I needed to check the upper and lower shelves in my custom built plane drawers:
Hmmm, the decision wasn't that hard. It's all in a name, I chose, a rabbit plane. MADE for just this job.
now that the rabbit was cleaned up, I could move on.
0 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.