Brand new Henry, I marred my lever screw.

[GunnyGene]

A couple other suggestions, if you already know maybe they will help someone else.

Work on a flat surface, with a non slip surface below the firearm. If nothing else, pick up a tool drawer mat and use that, but the gunsmith's mats aren't that expensive and you'll thank yourself in the long run. They keep the gun from slipping, keep screws and or parts from rolling away, and keep you from marring the off side of the gun when you are pressing down on it.

By working on the flat surface and not trying to remove the screws while holding the firearm in your lap, you have WAY more control. Since you have control, and are now using proper screwdrivers, GO SLOW. Apply Slow steady pressure so you aren't surprised when the screw releases. I restart screws by hand, or use a nylon screwdriver so it the screw jumps out or tips the screwdriver doesn't slip and scratch the finish.

Dillon has a handy non-marring tool for prying.. and nudging things in place. I use it a lot on the 1911s and to tuck things into the shotguns and rifles.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/10-8-pe ... 25920.html

I have built my tools up over the years, a few at a time, but they all are necessary. Brass punches are a must for knocking out pins. A small brass / nylon hammer for setting them. No rush, you can build it all up as you go.

The most important thing... Don't rush,
and if you don't know, ask questions, watch videos... but don't guess, and don't force things, either taking them apart or putting them back.

A bench block is also something I'd recommend, especially for catching small parts like pins that you have to drive out. Brownells, etc. sells all kinds, or make your own out of a piece of 2x4 which is what I do.

[BrokenolMarine]

A bench block is a great suggestion. Thank you Gunny. I have three from brownells that I use often. Going thru the brownells catalog can leave me drooling. I always find something else I would like to have. A set of brass range rods made it into my range box. Very handy for all kinds of things.

One thing I left off my list was a good cleaning kit.

[Retlawman]

Great, thanks for the suggestions. I just received my Wheeler set. I threw in some extra sockets. It's so much better than the Craftsman I used. Perfect bit and thinner blade!

[GFK]

A couple other suggestions, if you already know maybe they will help someone else.

Work on a flat surface, with a non slip surface below the firearm. If nothing else, pick up a tool drawer mat and use that, but the gunsmith's mats aren't that expensive and you'll thank yourself in the long run. They keep the gun from slipping, keep screws and or parts from rolling away, and keep you from marring the off side of the gun when you are pressing down on it.

By working on the flat surface and not trying to remove the screws while holding the firearm in your lap, you have WAY more control. Since you have control, and are now using proper screwdrivers, GO SLOW. Apply Slow steady pressure so you aren't surprised when the screw releases. I restart screws by hand, or use a nylon screwdriver so it the screw jumps out or tips the screwdriver doesn't slip and scratch the finish.

Dillon has a handy non-marring tool for prying.. and nudging things in place. I use it a lot on the 1911s and to tuck things into the shotguns and rifles.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/10-8-pe ... 25920.html

I have built my tools up over the years, a few at a time, but they all are necessary. Brass punches are a must for knocking out pins. A small brass / nylon hammer for setting them. No rush, you can build it all up as you go.

The most important thing... Don't rush,
and if you don't know, ask questions, watch videos... but don't guess, and don't force things, either taking them apart or putting them back.

A bench block is also something I'd recommend, especially for catching small parts like pins that you have to drive out. Brownells, etc. sells all kinds, or make your own out of a piece of 2x4 which is what I do.

I agree. A workbench would be nice. Maybe, one day. Until then, I have been using a mat across my lap. Less than idea. But, it has been working. Yes, there has been some slips. Over the years, the marks seem to fade away. The way I figure, anything that is used will show some wear and tear. So, I just be as careful as I can and keep my firearms clean. Since 1991, I have not had a firearm to fail on me yet. Of course, there is always room for improvement. Therefore, a workshop is on my want list. Yet, it is below a home shooting range. I can make do without a workshop. However, it is work to make do without a range.

[BrokenolMarine]

You don't have to have a work bench. I have used a kitchen or dining room table, island, countertop, tv tray, or various desks. Before I had a smith's mat I used a heavy (old) towel to keep things protected. I had to get old(er) before I built up my collection, and I did build it up slowly.

[Retlawman]

A couple other suggestions, if you already know maybe they will help someone else.

Work on a flat surface, with a non slip surface below the firearm. If nothing else, pick up a tool drawer mat and use that, but the gunsmith's mats aren't that expensive and you'll thank yourself in the long run. They keep the gun from slipping, keep screws and or parts from rolling away, and keep you from marring the off side of the gun when you are pressing down on it.

By working on the flat surface and not trying to remove the screws while holding the firearm in your lap, you have WAY more control. Since you have control, and are now using proper screwdrivers, GO SLOW. Apply Slow steady pressure so you aren't surprised when the screw releases. I restart screws by hand, or use a nylon screwdriver so it the screw jumps out or tips the screwdriver doesn't slip and scratch the finish.

Dillon has a handy non-marring tool for prying.. and nudging things in place. I use it a lot on the 1911s and to tuck things into the shotguns and rifles.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/10-8-pe ... 25920.html

I have built my tools up over the years, a few at a time, but they all are necessary. Brass punches are a must for knocking out pins. A small brass / nylon hammer for setting them. No rush, you can build it all up as you go.

The most important thing... Don't rush,
and if you don't know, ask questions, watch videos... but don't guess, and don't force things, either taking them apart or putting them back.

A bench block is also something I'd recommend, especially for catching small parts like pins that you have to drive out. Brownells, etc. sells all kinds, or make your own out of a piece of 2x4 which is what I do.

Thanks, I have a Wheeler bench block I bought for my 1911. It works well. Ive been planning to get the 10-8 tool, especially for removing the extractor on my 9mm Wilson CQB. Thx for the suggestions.

[BrokenolMarine]

I agree, range is more important.

[ol'pole]

I Have a good American made set from Chapman mfg. in Durham, CT. I have their kit #9600, everything I need for my Uberti and henry. A good quality set designed and made in this country.

[jstanfield103]

Here is a link for the lever thumb screw. I am not affiliated in anyway. I have purchased several though

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124540265338

[dave77]

I would order one (even at $18) but site says they won't fit Brass Big Boys. I just looked at mine and it looks the same as the photo in Retlawman's first post. I will email Henry's and and ask what the difference is.

[Hatchdog]

I Have a good American made set from Chapman mfg. in Durham, CT. I have their kit #9600, everything I need for my Uberti and henry. A good quality set designed and made in this country.

+1 on the Chapman. I have a set I bought 30+ years ago and it’s great. Comes with a case and it fits nicely into my range bag.

[jstanfield103]

Yes,

I asked the same question. They were not sure. But they all take the same lever. Here is my 357/38 that I bought off that same site. Big Boy classic.

[Retlawman]

Here is a link for the lever thumb screw. I am not affiliated in anyway. I have purchased several though

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124540265338

Thanks, just ordered on Ebay. I think this should be good on all Big Boys as long as the screw is blue.

[GFK]

You don't have to have a work bench. I have used a kitchen or dining room table, island, countertop, tv tray, or various desks. Before I had a smith's mat I used a heavy (old) towel to keep things protected. I had to get old(er) before I built up my collection, and I did build it up slowly.

I agree. Other surfaces can be used. And, I do seem to use a desk when working with handguns. For rifles, I find myself just using my lap. I try not to have firearm cleaning solvents in the kitchen. So, I typically just work in my office. Thus far, all has been working well.

[dave77]

Here is a link for the lever thumb screw. I am not affiliated in anyway. I have purchased several though

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124540265338

Thanks, just ordered on Ebay. I think this should be good on all Big Boys as long as the screw is blue.

Here is the response from Henry regarding the lever screw on the H-006 and H-012:

"Thank you for owning a Henry David.

I can't vouch for the aftermarket screw's compatibility but can confirm we use the same production lever screw(part # BB-12) to build H006 and H012 Series models.

Best Regards,
Thomas Kotz
Product Manager/Exports"

[markiver54]

Good info. I've delt with Tom before. Nice fella.

[jstanfield103]

Yes good information.
I know Ranger Point Precision also makes these lever screws. But for me there screw is just to big and does not look near as good as this one. This is the only one I could find that really kind of blends into the rifle like it belongs.

[Molegunner]

Just take a black magic maker and touch it up when it needs it!!

[Conax]

I never tighten that screw very much. It has to come out regularly and gets checked as a matter of routine. Tightening it down just guarantees that it'll look worn sooner than the rifle. Turn it in til it stops, then one little grunt. Just tight enough is perfect.