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Vanity Restoration
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5829
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Vanity Restoration
The double sink vanity in our master bath started a slow leak sometime earlier. Unfortunately, the leak was hidden by the drawer stack. The leak turned the mdf bottom to mush.
Our original plan was to have our plumber replumb the sinks, and replace the vanity, which the original owners had installed during the addition of the "Grand Bath" for his princess. The jacuzzi style tub had been leaking from the day he installed that, and finally damaged the surround, revealing the leak. Our guy replumbed that back in the fall.
Hmmm. A check for replacement vanities nearly put me into cardiac arrest. Cheapo ones are $600. Counter-less mdf bases with quality hardware, $1,000.
A midrange granite like top and quality hardware like we have... $1,300 to $1,700.
I will restore this one. If...IF there is an interest, I will post a buildalong.
Let me know. It will be a PITA, which should make it frustrating... Ummm, interesting.
Adapt, overcome.
The water damage took out the bottom, the lower edge trim, and weeped up the center panels, a tad. I won't replace those center panels. I will deconstruct the damaged bottom. I will be making new trim with my molding planes, and a new 3/4 inch bottom. The repair will make it functional, and pretty enough to meet Miss Ts approval, but not perfect. Because....
We will be remodeling the master bath in the next couple years. I need a roll in shower, Miss T wants a soaking tub. We have to have plumbing that actually works.
Let me know...
Our original plan was to have our plumber replumb the sinks, and replace the vanity, which the original owners had installed during the addition of the "Grand Bath" for his princess. The jacuzzi style tub had been leaking from the day he installed that, and finally damaged the surround, revealing the leak. Our guy replumbed that back in the fall.
Hmmm. A check for replacement vanities nearly put me into cardiac arrest. Cheapo ones are $600. Counter-less mdf bases with quality hardware, $1,000.
A midrange granite like top and quality hardware like we have... $1,300 to $1,700.
I will restore this one. If...IF there is an interest, I will post a buildalong.
Let me know. It will be a PITA, which should make it frustrating... Ummm, interesting.
Adapt, overcome.
The water damage took out the bottom, the lower edge trim, and weeped up the center panels, a tad. I won't replace those center panels. I will deconstruct the damaged bottom. I will be making new trim with my molding planes, and a new 3/4 inch bottom. The repair will make it functional, and pretty enough to meet Miss Ts approval, but not perfect. Because....
We will be remodeling the master bath in the next couple years. I need a roll in shower, Miss T wants a soaking tub. We have to have plumbing that actually works.
Let me know...
1 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- Sir Henry
- Administrator / Owner
- Posts: 12199
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:58 pm
- Location: Price County Wisconsin
Re: Vanity Restoration
I would be interested. I need to remodel my own bathroom just because it’s so outdated and only one faucet works. At least I don’t have any water damage.
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Hi, my name is Gene and I'm a Henryholic from Wisconsin.
Range Reporter: Henry Repeater
Range Reporter: Henry Repeater
- CT_Shooter
- Administrator emeritus
- Posts: 5163
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:42 am
- Location: Connecticut
Re: Vanity Restoration
I'd like to see it, too. Seeing your work in progress has always been enjoyable.BrokenolMarine wrote: ↑Wed Jan 06, 2021 12:35 pmI will restore this one. If...IF there is an interest, I will post a buildalong.
Let me know. It will be a PITA, which should make it frustrating... Ummm, interesting.
Let me know...
Last edited by CT_Shooter on Thu Jan 07, 2021 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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H006M Big Boy Brass .357 - H001 Classic .22LR - Uberti / Taylors & Co. SmokeWagon .357 5.5" - Uberti / Taylors & Co. RanchHand .22LR 5.5"
- Sir Henry
- Administrator / Owner
- Posts: 12199
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:58 pm
- Location: Price County Wisconsin
Re: Vanity Restoration
I don’t have a TV that gets reception so this is my entertainment!
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Hi, my name is Gene and I'm a Henryholic from Wisconsin.
Range Reporter: Henry Repeater
Range Reporter: Henry Repeater
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- Cowhand
- Posts: 321
- Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2016 11:37 am
- Location: Texas
Re: Vanity Restoration
I would also like to see this project. I am needing a total remodel on one of my bathrooms.
Muddy Waters
Muddy Waters
0 x
Re: Vanity Restoration
I enjoy reading these type of posts. Unfortunately I was born with nine thumbs and one trigger finger so my building skills are pretty much non existent. I can cobble together some shelves for the garage or basement but finish work just frustrates me. I will enjoy following along with your project.
1 x
- markiver54
- Deputy Marshal
- Posts: 10326
- Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2018 11:49 am
- Location: Biue Ridge Mountains, NC
Re: Vanity Restoration
Yes! Please keep us posted Jim. I know we can all enjoy and benefit from it!
0 x
I'm your Huckleberry
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5829
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Vanity Restoration
Let's get started on the cool stuff with pictures. We had been turned on to the leak with the crackled paint. It looked like this:
This pic was taken AFTER the drawers were removed. Our attention was first drawn to the paint when about a 6" section first cracked along that lower trim at the front of the vanity. Before this happened, the hot water line at the back of the vanity had been leaking for SOME time. The bottom panel UNDER the drawer stack had already turned to mush and the water was wicking forward and somewhat up.
If you look at the snarl of plumbing the former owner and his dad installed, you'll note that they did NOT add shutoffs below the T's splitting the lines going to the individual sinks, so you can't turn the water off to both sinks at once, NOR can you remove the countertop and sinks, without turning off the water to the entire house. In addition, the crowding of the pipes after gluing, made it impossible to turn off the right hand sink hot water, which was the ONE that was leaking. Not helpful. Had to turn off the hot water to the house unless needed. We put a drip pan under the joint until the plumber could arrive.
Also, the drain line from the sinks going into the OUTGOING line into the floor was NOT glued in, it was just stuck down into the pipe. NOT to code.
Look at the picture below, note the drainpipe from the lefthand sink, flowing to the center T, it has a major crack almost the full length across the top. This is the master bath, and it was NOT exposed to the elements. The crack is centered at the top of the pipe. Our plumber figures they installed it that way since it's a drain line and not under pressure. BUT, also not up to code.
Once we got the Vanity out to the shop, we removed the base, and it came off in pieces. Ah... not reusable. Most of the MDF was swollen and mush, but some was still sound, just waterlogged. My plan was to replace the entire base.
This pic was taken AFTER the drawers were removed. Our attention was first drawn to the paint when about a 6" section first cracked along that lower trim at the front of the vanity. Before this happened, the hot water line at the back of the vanity had been leaking for SOME time. The bottom panel UNDER the drawer stack had already turned to mush and the water was wicking forward and somewhat up.
If you look at the snarl of plumbing the former owner and his dad installed, you'll note that they did NOT add shutoffs below the T's splitting the lines going to the individual sinks, so you can't turn the water off to both sinks at once, NOR can you remove the countertop and sinks, without turning off the water to the entire house. In addition, the crowding of the pipes after gluing, made it impossible to turn off the right hand sink hot water, which was the ONE that was leaking. Not helpful. Had to turn off the hot water to the house unless needed. We put a drip pan under the joint until the plumber could arrive.
Also, the drain line from the sinks going into the OUTGOING line into the floor was NOT glued in, it was just stuck down into the pipe. NOT to code.
Look at the picture below, note the drainpipe from the lefthand sink, flowing to the center T, it has a major crack almost the full length across the top. This is the master bath, and it was NOT exposed to the elements. The crack is centered at the top of the pipe. Our plumber figures they installed it that way since it's a drain line and not under pressure. BUT, also not up to code.
Once we got the Vanity out to the shop, we removed the base, and it came off in pieces. Ah... not reusable. Most of the MDF was swollen and mush, but some was still sound, just waterlogged. My plan was to replace the entire base.
1 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5829
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Vanity Restoration
The next step in the process was to clean up the glue and residue from the bottom of the Vanity to have a level and clean base to attach then new bottom to. This process involved a chisel, mallet, pliers for removing the long staples, and patience. A level laid across the base to check the work. After a couple hours work, I could move on to the next step.
I measured and marked the panel for the bottom of the vanity. I had cheated. I'll admit it. I had Home Depot RIP the plywood sheet on the panel saw when I bought it. I'm not stupid, I knew the width I wanted and had the twelve year old working the lumber yard cut it for me. That 3/4" sheet of cabinet grade ply is HEAVY. Cut in half it's LOTS lighter, and I don't have to try and make that RIP cut at home. Too old and tired to deal with it. I used a guide I had ordered from Lee Valley or Woodcraft, can't remember which, I have a three piece set. Makes that cross cut with the skill saw a breeze, the hard part is getting it set up.
Laid the bottom on the vanity and marked the location of the feet, then drilled the countersinks for the brass threaded bases. Drilled the holes for the threaded portion as well. All that was done with a pair of forstner bits. Then I screwed the six plates in place.
Here is a close look at the base / foot combo
The base was glued and screwed, carefully marking and measuring the location of each screwhole I drilled before doing so.
I measured and marked the panel for the bottom of the vanity. I had cheated. I'll admit it. I had Home Depot RIP the plywood sheet on the panel saw when I bought it. I'm not stupid, I knew the width I wanted and had the twelve year old working the lumber yard cut it for me. That 3/4" sheet of cabinet grade ply is HEAVY. Cut in half it's LOTS lighter, and I don't have to try and make that RIP cut at home. Too old and tired to deal with it. I used a guide I had ordered from Lee Valley or Woodcraft, can't remember which, I have a three piece set. Makes that cross cut with the skill saw a breeze, the hard part is getting it set up.
Laid the bottom on the vanity and marked the location of the feet, then drilled the countersinks for the brass threaded bases. Drilled the holes for the threaded portion as well. All that was done with a pair of forstner bits. Then I screwed the six plates in place.
Here is a close look at the base / foot combo
The base was glued and screwed, carefully marking and measuring the location of each screwhole I drilled before doing so.
1 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
- BrokenolMarine
- Ranch Foreman
- Posts: 5829
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:28 am
- Location: South Central Oklahoma in the mountains
Re: Vanity Restoration
I had planned to make the trim I needed with my molding planes, but after two passes thru the drawer, I couldn't find the profile I needed, so I went thru the box of bits for the router, and there she was. I chucked it in the router, carefully measured the depth needed and set that on the router.
I took a piece of 2x4 the right length, with extra, and secured it on the bench, then made a pass across it with the router, then checked the result. The shoulder on the trim wasn't high enough to match, so I reset the depth of the bit to cut a bit deeper and made another pass. Bingo.
I took the 2x4 to the table saw, and set up the table saw for a rip. Then measured the width I needed for the molding/trim. I made a ripping pass to get that width across the top of the molding. Pucker factor, slip or kickback and I would have to start over. Then, I measured the height of the existing molding. Reset the Table saw and made that second pass. Boom.
The molding goes into the vanity where the cracked molding / trim was under the cabinet doors and the drawers were at the bottom. You can see the gap in the pic below.
When I made the first test fit it was just a bit too tight. It would have been WAY too dangerous to try and run a piece that thin back across the table saw, at least for me. I got out my long plane and planed the back of the trim until it fit. I love the planes, quiet and LOTS less messy than that DANG router.
I planed the back of the trim, tested the fit, planed, and tested, repeated until it worked. I MAY add trim to the front edge and two sides of the new base. Tina doesn't care. Toe molding would work. Not that expensive. Have to go to HD for paint anyway.
There are still a few minor cosmetic repairs to make and then painting to be done. The plumber will reinstall it for me then. It won't be perfect, but I will have saved about $1500.
I can live with it. The missing doors are inside, they are off because it's easier to carry with them off. Gives us handholds. The drawers are out because they are full of crap and we didn't need the weight. The one drawer is installed because I needed the center towers to be properly spaced when I screwed the base on. I'll remove it when we carry this thing anywhere. It's a heavy Sumbeotch.
I took a piece of 2x4 the right length, with extra, and secured it on the bench, then made a pass across it with the router, then checked the result. The shoulder on the trim wasn't high enough to match, so I reset the depth of the bit to cut a bit deeper and made another pass. Bingo.
I took the 2x4 to the table saw, and set up the table saw for a rip. Then measured the width I needed for the molding/trim. I made a ripping pass to get that width across the top of the molding. Pucker factor, slip or kickback and I would have to start over. Then, I measured the height of the existing molding. Reset the Table saw and made that second pass. Boom.
The molding goes into the vanity where the cracked molding / trim was under the cabinet doors and the drawers were at the bottom. You can see the gap in the pic below.
When I made the first test fit it was just a bit too tight. It would have been WAY too dangerous to try and run a piece that thin back across the table saw, at least for me. I got out my long plane and planed the back of the trim until it fit. I love the planes, quiet and LOTS less messy than that DANG router.
I planed the back of the trim, tested the fit, planed, and tested, repeated until it worked. I MAY add trim to the front edge and two sides of the new base. Tina doesn't care. Toe molding would work. Not that expensive. Have to go to HD for paint anyway.
There are still a few minor cosmetic repairs to make and then painting to be done. The plumber will reinstall it for me then. It won't be perfect, but I will have saved about $1500.
I can live with it. The missing doors are inside, they are off because it's easier to carry with them off. Gives us handholds. The drawers are out because they are full of crap and we didn't need the weight. The one drawer is installed because I needed the center towers to be properly spaced when I screwed the base on. I'll remove it when we carry this thing anywhere. It's a heavy Sumbeotch.
1 x
You can tell a lot about the character of a man...
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
by the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.