To refinish, or not to refinish

[shootest]

I’m debating to strip my .22 and use BLO. I finished my Garand with BLO and it turned out well. Let’s hear some discussion.

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[GunnyGene]

BLO is a very poor finish in terms of durability, weather resistance, etc., and will require regular(think monthly at least) maintenance even if it just hangs on the wall.

[roddy]

I would do it...you never know what you might find under the stain. I like working with BLO...it's simple and works great, as long as you go at it's pace.

I used BLO (and a whole lot of elbow grease) on this one last summer...

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[shootest]

BLO is a very poor finish in terms of durability, weather resistance, etc., and will require regular(think monthly at least) maintenance even if it just hangs on the wall.

Well, I have two opinions. Yours seems strange. The Garand was finished with BLO and I’ve never had a problem, thanks for playing.

[Carver]

I guess that True Oil would be my choice of finish. I use it on most of my carvings and rifle stocks that I have redone, easy to work with and give a nice hard finish.

[roddy]

I keep my stuff pretty clean and dry...if it was going to see any weather, Tung oil or TruOil would give better protection.

This one was done with Tung oil...

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[Mags]

My take, leave it as is and apply several coats of Renaissance Wax.

[GunnyGene]

BLO is a very poor finish in terms of durability, weather resistance, etc., and will require regular(think monthly at least) maintenance even if it just hangs on the wall.

Well, I have two opinions. Yours seems strange. The Garand was finished with BLO and I’ve never had a problem, thanks for playing.

Not just my opinion, but that of every professional woodworker. Recommend you find a copy of Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner.

https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wo ... 956&sr=8-2

A page from the above book:

[ESquared]

The "BLO Debate" aside, just based on your pic in Post #1, if it were me I'd be taking a long look at what's likely under that factory finish before diving into a refinish.

If there's not some really great grain pattern lurking under there, Mags' suggestion on starting with RenWax might be worth considering.

[GunnyGene]

The "BLO Debate" aside, just based on your pic in Post #1, if it were me I'd be taking a long look at what's likely under that factory finish before diving into a refinish.

If there's not some really great grain pattern lurking under there, Mags' suggestion on starting with RenWax might be worth considering.

Most factory finishes for the last 30 years or so are an epoxy based, or acrylic, finish. Very difficult to remove and usually requires some aggressive sanding to get the wood to where it will accept any penetrating oil type finish.

[Mags]

.
Renwax would prevent the water staining shown in the picture from the book...

BLO is a very poor finish in terms of durability, weather resistance, etc., and will require regular(think monthly at least) maintenance even if it just hangs on the wall.

Well, I have two opinions. Yours seems strange. The Garand was finished with BLO and I’ve never had a problem, thanks for playing.

Not just my opinion, but that of every professional woodworker. Recommend you find a copy of Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner.

https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wo ... 956&sr=8-2

A page from the above book:

[GunnyGene]

.
Renwax would prevent the water staining shown in the picture from the book...

It will for a while. It's primary advantage over other waxes is that it's non-acidic, retards moisture, and blocks oxygen, which makes it an excellent preservative for artwork, metals, etc. that are not frequently handled - such as in museums which is what it was originally developed for. But it is still a wax, which means it remains relatively soft compared to other finishes, and therefore subject to wear. As with any other finish (including paints) what you choose largely depends on how frequently you are willing to refresh it given the expected wear and tear it will be subjected to by handling, or exposure to the elements.

[Mags]

.
yup, absolutely correct. That is why applying a light wipe of Renwax is part of my gun cleaning regimen.

.
Renwax would prevent the water staining shown in the picture from the book...

It will for a while. It's primary advantage over other waxes is that it's non-acidic, retards moisture, and blocks oxygen, which makes it an excellent preservative for artwork, metals, etc. that are not frequently handled - such as in museums which is what it was originally developed for. But it is still a wax, which means it remains relatively soft compared to other finishes, and therefore subject to wear. As with any other finish (including paints) what you choose largely depends on how frequently you are willing to refresh it given the expected wear and tear it will be subjected to by handling, or exposure to the elements.

[GunnyGene]

[quote="Mags"].
yup, absolutely correct. That is way applying a light wipe of Renwax is part of my gun cleaning regimen.
[quote="GunnyGene"]

Other than firearms, my primary use of renwax is to prevent surface rust on my iron top table saw, bandsaw, etc. and a large collection of woodworking hand tools. Depending on how much use they see, I have to reapply as needed. But I'd rather do that than deal with the inevitable rust that will form overnight in MS.

[Mags]

I have also used Renwax as a lubricant on my tool box drawer slides/guides...

[GunnyGene]

I have also used Renwax as a lubricant on my tool box drawer slides/guides...

Yep. Works well as a lube on many things that slide, including on the wood guides you find on fine antique (or modern) chests of drawers. What I used on this one I built from scratch a few years ago:

Not quite finished with it in this pic.

[Rep1954]

What about using Danish Oil? I have used it on smooth revolver grips that were waxed afterward and they seem to work out okay.

[GunnyGene]

What about using Danish Oil? I have used it on smooth revolver grips that were waxed afterward and they seem to work out okay.

Danish is fine. You can even make it yourself. Approximately equal parts of some polymerized oil such as BLO, Walnut, Tung, etc., Polyurethane, and Mineral spirits. Mineral spirits is the thinner. It's important to get a quality gloss poly if you do this and use enough mineral spirits to thin it sufficiently to wipe on in very thin coats. It will take 5-7 thin coats (light sanding with 320 grit between coats after each coat is cured, and wiping off all sanding debris with a tack cloth between coats), but you'll get a much better finish than using a thick mix.

I'd suggest experimenting with small quantities of the mixture to get what you want. If you buy the ready made Danish at Lowes, HD, etc. thin it with mineral spirits, since it's usually too thick to use right out of the can. Pour a little into a separate container when using and don't leave the top off the can. Oxygen will cause it to start to cure, and then you might as well throw it out. I usually throw a few marbles in the can to displace any air after I pour out what I'll need for the moment, and put the lid back on immediately.

Same goes for any other finish. Air is your enemy if you want to keep it fresh.

[Mags]

.
that's hefty looking well made!

I have also used Renwax as a lubricant on my tool box drawer slides/guides...

Yep. Works well as a lube on many things that slide, including on the wood guides you find on fine antique (or modern) chests of drawers. What I used on this one I built from scratch a few years ago:

Not quite finished with it in this pic.

[Frontiersman]

I like Lin-Speed oil. I've been using it for decades. It's a wonderful stock finish.