Solid Wood Paneling

[Sir Henry]

I bought this raw cherry wood from a neighbor. Right now it’s just leaning up against the wall. I’m thinking of doing the entire room like this.

FBA620F0-9902-405C-B0A2-1A18061CD141.jpeg (158.77 KiB) Viewed 2691 times

I don’t want it to go all the way to the ceiling. I may cut six inches off the bottom and leave the raw top. Cutting six inches off will give it a little more space at the top.

[Vaquero]

Looks good, Why, a gap up there? what are you thinking of doing at the top?

RP

[Vaquero]

Also, looks like your putting it over sheetrock?
How do you plan to attach it?

RP

[Sir Henry]

Looks good, Why, a gap up there? what are you thinking of doing at the top?

RP

The boards average about three inches short of going all the way to the top. I like the raw jagged top and it I do it that way two inches isn’t enough on top. A few more inches would make it more balanced.

[Sir Henry]

Also, looks like your putting it over sheetrock?
How do you plan to attach it?

RP

With a thin backer plywood.

[GunnyGene]

That can be a little tricky. Where was the wood stored before you brought it in to the house? I ask because you should let it acclimate to your house before doing anything with it. You need to consider expansion/contraction resulting from changes in humidity (seasonal or otherwise) before you secure it to the wall or you could end up with splitting/warping. I'd recommend doing a tongue and groove (or even a simple lap joint) on the mating edges to give the planks some room to move once they are acclimated. Your planks look to be about 5" width, but without knowing their moisture content you won't know how much shrinkage or expansion you can expect due to seasonal humidity changes inside the house. Typical seasonal moisture content change in properly dried raw wood (common species) in N. America ranges from 4% to 14%, but can exceed that regionally. In a 5" wide plank you could see as much as 1/10" growth/shrinkage depending on the RH range in your house.

Here's a quicky calculator for determining this:

https://woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator/

[Kissmybrass]

Kinda looks cool just how it is. Would make an awesome divider wall too!

[Sir Henry]

That can be a little tricky. Where was the wood stored before you brought it in to the house? I ask because you should let it acclimate to your house before doing anything with it. You need to consider expansion/contraction resulting from changes in humidity (seasonal or otherwise) before you secure it to the wall or you could end up with splitting/warping. I'd recommend doing a tongue and groove (or even a simple lap joint) on the mating edges to give the planks some room to move once they are acclimated. Your planks look to be about 5" width, but without knowing their moisture content you won't know how much shrinkage or expansion you can expect due to seasonal humidity changes inside the house. Typical seasonal moisture content change in properly dried raw wood (common species) in N. America ranges from 4% to 14%, but can exceed that regionally. In a 5" wide plank you could see as much as 1/10" growth/shrinkage depending on the RH range in your house.

Here's a quicky calculator for determining this:

https://woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator/

When I had hardwood floors installed in Woodinville the wood was placed inside the house for two weeks before they began to install it. The floor guy told me they never had a problem from work installed in the winter yet would often get complaints from summer installs. I want this to look like a cabin shack on the inside and will be installing it without planing it first. This will allow cracks in between in places. Also there are many live edges with bark. This is the back entry and will also be my gun room. Most of them will be stored upstairs with just a few daily shooters on the first floor.

[Sir Henry]

This will give you a better idea of what I’m working with. There are going to be gaps in between the boards. There is bark and saw marks on the wood. It is totally unplanned or sanded. It is rough lumber.

My house was built in the mid 1880’s and was one of the first stick built houses in the county. It is well known in the area. If I say I live in the old Sanders red house on the hill most people will know where I live.

The wood I will be installing will be what was available when the house was built. It will look correct in this house but maybe not a house built in the 1950’s.

A2ABC916-BD38-4043-8B94-BD9E967E2DC5.jpeg (292.36 KiB) Viewed 2653 times

When this house was built there was no such thing as electricity and the nearest well was a quarter mile away.

444868E6-0596-417A-A174-040A1C9AF5DA.jpeg (376.02 KiB) Viewed 2653 times

[Hatchdog]

I like it Gene especially the rough cut surface. It’s going to look great.

[GunnyGene]

This will give you a better idea of what I’m working with. There are going to be gaps in between the boards. There is bark and saw marks on the wood. It is totally unplanned or sanded. It is rough lumber.

My house was built in the mid 1880’s and was one of the first stick built houses in the county. It is well known in the area. If I say I live in the old Sanders red house on the hill most people will know where I live.

The wood I will be installing will be what was available when the house was built. It will look correct in this house but maybe not a house built in the 1950’s.
A2ABC916-BD38-4043-8B94-BD9E967E2DC5.jpeg
When this house was built there was no such thing as electricity and the nearest well was a quarter mile away.
444868E6-0596-417A-A174-040A1C9AF5DA.jpeg

That does clarify what your design intent is. Rustic is good. You mentioned installing it over ply. I assume a common birch or other light wood ply? If that's the case, and given that the planks will allow it to be seen thru the edges, I think I'd apply a dark stain (walnut? ) to the ply before hanging the cherry since cherry will darken as it ages, especially in direct sunlight if you get that thru the nearby door window.

One other question. Are you planning on nailing it all in place? If you are you might want to pick up period correct cut nails. If you can't find them locally, you can select from a variety of sizes and head designs here:

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/i ... term=nails

[Sir Henry]

I like it Gene especially the rough cut surface. It’s going to look great.

Thanks. I put the rest of the wood in the garage. I won’t be able to get to this for a few months so I’ll take the wood inside the house to the garage and lay it down. I think it will warp is I leave it laying up against the wall. When I bring it back inside I will store it laying down for a couple of weeks to let it get it’s driest.

I bought 300 board feet for $500. These are true 1” x 4,6, and 8” x 98” boards. My ceilings are 102”.

[Vaquero]

Also, looks like your putting it over sheetrock?
How do you plan to attach it?

RP

With a thin backer plywood.

To me that's still not going to be adequate to hold those boards.
Good luck, it should look nice for sure, but I'm not sure how well that's going to work.
I've thought about doing something similar in the man cave with reclaimed barn wood,
but running them diagonal so I could nail into the studs.

RP

[Sir Henry]

Also, looks like your putting it over sheetrock?
How do you plan to attach it?

RP

With a thin backer plywood.

To me that's still not going to be adequate to hold those boards.
Good luck, it should look nice for sure, but I'm not sure how well that's going to work.
I've thought about doing something similar in the man cave with reclaimed barn wood,
but running them diagonal so I could nail into the studs.

RP

I have the same concerns. I may go with 3/4” plywood and screw it from the back so no nails are visible.

[Sir Henry]

This will give you a better idea of what I’m working with. There are going to be gaps in between the boards. There is bark and saw marks on the wood. It is totally unplanned or sanded. It is rough lumber.

My house was built in the mid 1880’s and was one of the first stick built houses in the county. It is well known in the area. If I say I live in the old Sanders red house on the hill most people will know where I live.

The wood I will be installing will be what was available when the house was built. It will look correct in this house but maybe not a house built in the 1950’s.
A2ABC916-BD38-4043-8B94-BD9E967E2DC5.jpeg
When this house was built there was no such thing as electricity and the nearest well was a quarter mile away.
444868E6-0596-417A-A174-040A1C9AF5DA.jpeg

That does clarify what your design intent is. Rustic is good. You mentioned installing it over ply. I assume a common birch or other light wood ply? If that's the case, and given that the planks will allow it to be seen thru the edges, I think I'd apply a dark stain (walnut? ) to the ply before hanging the cherry since cherry will darken as it ages, especially in direct sunlight if you get that thru the nearby door window.

One other question. Are you planning on nailing it all in place? If you are you might want to pick up period correct cut nails. If you can't find them locally, you can select from a variety of sizes and head designs here:

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/i ... term=nails

Thanks for the link on the period nails. I may paint the plywood falu red which is the color of the house and almost every barn in America. It’s the color of a traditional Swedish torp house.

[GunnyGene]

This will give you a better idea of what I’m working with. There are going to be gaps in between the boards. There is bark and saw marks on the wood. It is totally unplanned or sanded. It is rough lumber.

My house was built in the mid 1880’s and was one of the first stick built houses in the county. It is well known in the area. If I say I live in the old Sanders red house on the hill most people will know where I live.

The wood I will be installing will be what was available when the house was built. It will look correct in this house but maybe not a house built in the 1950’s.
A2ABC916-BD38-4043-8B94-BD9E967E2DC5.jpeg
When this house was built there was no such thing as electricity and the nearest well was a quarter mile away.
444868E6-0596-417A-A174-040A1C9AF5DA.jpeg

That does clarify what your design intent is. Rustic is good. You mentioned installing it over ply. I assume a common birch or other light wood ply? If that's the case, and given that the planks will allow it to be seen thru the edges, I think I'd apply a dark stain (walnut? ) to the ply before hanging the cherry since cherry will darken as it ages, especially in direct sunlight if you get that thru the nearby door window.

One other question. Are you planning on nailing it all in place? If you are you might want to pick up period correct cut nails. If you can't find them locally, you can select from a variety of sizes and head designs here:

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/i ... term=nails

Thanks for the link on the period nails. I may paint the plywood falu red which is the color of the house and almost every barn in America. It’s the color of a traditional Swedish torp house.

Your welcome. I've still got some around here somewhere from when I did a lot of woodwork. Look and hold better than common wire nails. I think the red would be appropriate. This kind of thing is always a fun project.

[Sir Henry]

That does clarify what your design intent is. Rustic is good. You mentioned installing it over ply. I assume a common birch or other light wood ply? If that's the case, and given that the planks will allow it to be seen thru the edges, I think I'd apply a dark stain (walnut? ) to the ply before hanging the cherry since cherry will darken as it ages, especially in direct sunlight if you get that thru the nearby door window.

One other question. Are you planning on nailing it all in place? If you are you might want to pick up period correct cut nails. If you can't find them locally, you can select from a variety of sizes and head designs here:

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/i ... term=nails

Thanks for the link on the period nails. I may paint the plywood falu red which is the color of the house and almost every barn in America. It’s the color of a traditional Swedish torp house.

Your welcome. I've still got some around here somewhere from when I did a lot of woodwork. Look and hold better than common wire nails. I think the red would be appropriate. This kind of thing is always a fun project.

Now I’m thinking nail what boards I can to the studs and then nail a cross board to all the boards. All made possible by getting vintage nails.

[GunnyGene]

Thanks for the link on the period nails. I may paint the plywood falu red which is the color of the house and almost every barn in America. It’s the color of a traditional Swedish torp house.

Your welcome. I've still got some around here somewhere from when I did a lot of woodwork. Look and hold better than common wire nails. I think the red would be appropriate. This kind of thing is always a fun project.

Now I’m thinking nail what boards I can to the studs and then nail a cross board to all the boards. All made possible by getting vintage nails.

Amazing how a little thing like a nail can inspire the imagination, ain't it. You could do that, or ......................

Do you know what a French cleat is? It's what I made to hang my weapon display on the wall. You only need one board screwed to the studs. But you would have to run a frame completely around your 'hanging' wall, or in your case only 2 sides and the top, to hide the cleat.



Or... how about a sliding barn door look? You can get hardware to hang it from so you could close off that hallway(?) to the left in your pic if you wanted to do that.

[Sir Henry]

Your welcome. I've still got some around here somewhere from when I did a lot of woodwork. Look and hold better than common wire nails. I think the red would be appropriate. This kind of thing is always a fun project.

Now I’m thinking nail what boards I can to the studs and then nail a cross board to all the boards. All made possible by getting vintage nails.

Amazing how a little thing like a nail can inspire the imagination, ain't it. You could do that, or ......................

Do you know what a French cleat is? It's what I made to hang my weapon display on the wall. You only need one board screwed to the studs. But you would have to run a frame completely around your 'hanging' wall, or in your case only 2 sides and the top, to hide the cleat.



Or... how about a sliding barn door look? You can get hardware to hang it from so you could close off that hallway(?) to the left in your pic if you wanted to do that.

Nice job on your display. Never heard of a French Cleat till now. After looking it up it might be the way to go.

[GunnyGene]

Now I’m thinking nail what boards I can to the studs and then nail a cross board to all the boards. All made possible by getting vintage nails.

Amazing how a little thing like a nail can inspire the imagination, ain't it. You could do that, or ......................

Do you know what a French cleat is? It's what I made to hang my weapon display on the wall. You only need one board screwed to the studs. But you would have to run a frame completely around your 'hanging' wall, or in your case only 2 sides and the top, to hide the cleat.



Or... how about a sliding barn door look? You can get hardware to hang it from so you could close off that hallway(?) to the left in your pic if you wanted to do that.

Nice job on your display. Never heard of a French Cleat till now. After looking it up it might be the way to go.

They're a very old method of attaching things to walls that you might want to move sometime later. Easy to make. I used a common (but straight) 2x4 ripped at 45* to create the mating pieces. Half is attached to the wall, the other half attached to the piece you want to hang so that the halves mate together very tightly. You do have to make sure, using a level, that both are perfectly horizontal and at the right height.