Display Case

[BrokenolMarine]

Tested the fit of the top. Looks pretty good. Will fit tight once the hinge is installed and the latches are in place. I won't apply finish until everything is done. Still need to decide on the shaping. Roll the edges, angle the edges? Decisions, decisions...

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[Hatchdog]

The old maker's mark is about halfway down page four for comparison.

A nice improvement indeed. It does stand out in a subtle way (if that’s possible ) on the finished piece of leather.

[BrokenolMarine]

Went to Home Depot this morning and picked up a couple things. I picked up four more hanging loops, this thing is getting heavy. I also picked up a package of special blades for the jigsaw, made especially for cutting plexiglass, after watching a couple videos on "How best to cut Plexiglass without breaking it." Who Knew they had special blades? The teeth on the blades are smaller, closer together, and angle BOTH ways, opening a channel rather than melting back together behind the cut, leaving a smooth clean cut.

NOT cheap, but after cutting this panel, worth every penny. It fits, and the cuts didn't need to be sanded or cleaned up in any way.

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For now, I have left the protective sheeting on the panel. It will come off later, when everything is done and I'm ready to fully assembly the case. Still have to drill some Tiny Holes to mount the plexi, mount the hinges and latches, mount the lights and the hangers. Almost done here.

Done for the day.

[BrokenolMarine]

Someone asked where I Planned to hang it. It will go here, above this table by the front door. The lamp will be gone, the painting will go, and the flag and medals will likely be moved to another location.

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I may hang my Marine NCO Sword Above it...

[BrokenolMarine]

Spent TWO days glued to the living room, waiting for a phone call on my cell, the wheelchair service company was supposed to call. The VA sent out a contract. No Joy. My cell doesn't work in the woodshop, metal building. Guess I'll give them another chance on Monday. My lift chair I use at the Drill Press and the Band Saw won't hold a charge.

Got out this morning and repeated the original process I used to cut the frame for the lid for the display case. I cut thinner pieces from the Cherry, to use as a Retention frame for the Plexi. Won't show pics, but the process was the same. Cut the strips, sand them clean of dirt and burn marks, and in this case, I added a step. I cut a 45 degree angle on one edge with a plane, then used the sander to roll the edge over. It will be the inside edge that meets the glass. I don't like using a router unless I have to. Then, using the miter saw, I cut the prepared pieces to length to fit the frame, creating the retention frame for the glass.

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The frame fit nicely, though in the pic above it's only laying on the top so it's bowed a bit here and there. When I pin it in place, it will follow the edges and line up as it's supposed to. Since the test fit worked, it's time to apply the Watco Oil and assemble the frame in preparation for assembly of the case itself.

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I chose Golden Oak for the extra color it adds and I think it will look good. That contrast will / should make the box pop a bit, but not detract too much from the overall project. We'll see. We are nearing the end. Before applying the oil, I sanded the rough corners to get rid of those little tits sticking out and sanded those plugs just to insure they were perfectly flush. We should be golden. (oak) Sorry, couldn't resist.

[BrokenolMarine]

We have Glass...
Next up, hinges and lights.

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[BrokenolMarine]

Have been busy of late. Yesterday I sanded the wax off the sides of the case and stained it a bit darker. I used dark walnut watco oil and was happy with the outcome.

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[BrokenolMarine]

Back out today, and first job was to attach the piano hinge to the top. Clamped the hinge in place and drilled the holes to a marked depth. I marked the bit using painters tape, and vacuumed away the sawdust to protect the plexi from scratches.

Each screw was waxed by screwing it into a wax block then backing it out.

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Each screw was carefully and slowly screwed into place using the drill, but was torque set to break when seated to avoid breaking off the head or cracking the wood.

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Got the hinge attached without mishap. An accomplishment not always possible. Easier with steel screws rather than brass.

[BrokenolMarine]

This next step was a high pucker factor. It involved drilling down thru the quarter round to pass the lighting wiring thru to the back of the box. I suspected the brad bits would work best, so I decided to test the theory on the scrap quarter round. I drilled the 3/8 hole in the quarter round, then cut a few 3/8 plugs from the same... I notched the plug for the wiring and tested the fit.

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This worked well. The wire nested in the slot and the plug fit. But, how would I trim the plugs flush with the wires running thru them without risking cutting thru the wires. Ah... use the test pilot hole as a jig... and cut all the plugs flush in the jig then push them back out. Luckily I remembered to cut the slots for two on the left and two on the right.


Mounted the JIG in the vise....

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Worked like a champ.

[BrokenolMarine]

I mounted the four lights and ran the wiring through the holes I had drilled with the brad bit, holding my breath....
Then pushed the plugs into place. Looked good.

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The plugs looked pretty good, I had pre-stained them to keep from getting stain on the wires.

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The box is looking pretty good. I need to screw the hinge to the box itself, attach a latch, and then the french cleats. Nearly done.

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[BrokenolMarine]

Went out this morning to attach the hinge to the case itself which will secure the top to the shadow box portion. First step was to center the hinge and put ONE screw in the center to insure it didn't move. Drilled that pilot hole and then put the screw in. Then repeated the process for a screw on each far end. Once that was done, I center punched all the holes so I could pre-drill all the remaining holes.

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By pre-drilling the holes, the screws go in so much easier and it reduces the chance of both the split wood or the sheared head, as does the waxing of the screws prior to installation. You can also use bar soap. A great use for the old slivers left over that no one wants to use in the bath or shower. Just stick the tip of the screw into the sliver and install. Make sure you clean the surface before applying finish as the wax or soap could affect the finish if you don't.

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Slow controlled installation using the torque set drill as before, and the installation of the hinge was done. Smooth as silk. Now we can move forward toward completion.

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Have to slip out to pick up the latch... not going to "Make Due" with something at this point.
And will pick up the trim to put around the base to hide the cleats... I knew I wasn't going to let it slide.

[Mags]

... You can also use bar soap. A great use for the old slivers left over that no one wants to use in the bath or shower. ...

No leftover soap slivers here. The wet sliver gets slapped and pressed to a new bar of wet soap and gets consumed as the new bar wears down.

My grand parents, when we cleaned out their house after their passing, had coffee cans of old slivers.

I enjoy your project sharing. You do good work.

[Hatchdog]

The end is near, outstanding.

My dad used to use the soap trick with wood screws. I had forgotten all about that. Nice trip down memory lane for me.

[BrokenolMarine]

Early morning was eaten up waiting for a new fridge to be delivered. Oh Joy.

Got out to the shop afterwards, and was able to get the latches installed for the top edge of the case top. Went very smooth. Have had plenty of time to plan. I measured a foot in from both sides, and marked the positions, and installed the hinged portions of the latch, standard tactic I always use. Taped depth on the bit, and torqued driver. Then came getting the exact position for the loop for the latch. This is always tricky, but of course, I have a trick. Form a double sided tape with blue painters tape. (There it is again, my blue tape.) Put it on the loop, and insert it in the hinged side of the latch and fold it over onto the case side. Press hard. Tah Dah.... Using a centering punch, mark the center of the two holes, then remove the loop and the tape, then drill. Install the loop.

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Both are installed and fit just right. I could use locks, but no need. I just used small carabiners to insure they don't pop open and let the front of the display fall open and break the glass once it's on the wall.

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Flipped over to the back, they won't be seen anyway.

[BrokenolMarine]

The next task for this session was taking care of something that was bugging me. A gap. No, not the clothing store, though that is not on the top of MY shopping destinations. This gap. Don't know how it happened, I must have been tired, or something slipped.

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First, I took a scrap piece of the trim I made and cut a thin slice. Not thin enough, so I cut another. STILL not thin enough. ONE more try. Bingo, it worked.

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I spread some glue on both sides, and tapped it in carefully, (it's really thin,) with a rawhide mallet. While the glue is still wet, I carefully sanded it flush. This meant the sawdust that filled any remaining gaps, was glued into place.

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I spent the next thirty minutes cleaning up and putting away, then stained the repair to match. Wow, it actually matches. I did have to cheat a bit. I came back in the house, pulled up the thread and looked. I had to read back thru and find out WHICH Watco I used on this frame. (Um...Golden Oak.) So, it matched.

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Took a break for lunch, and to meet the repair people who are picking up the old fridge. They have been good to us, and the fridge and freezer are find and it looks new. Only the ice maker doesn't work. They can fix it and sell the used fridge in the store and make some money. Good will is a commodity. I hate dealing with Craigslist.

[BrokenolMarine]

French cleats are next, and the trim, and done.

[BrokenolMarine]

One last session today. It was a long one, but just one pic. I set up the table saw, had to change to a smaller diameter blade so I could angle it to 45 degrees and run the two 6' boards thru to cut the 45 degree angle on the edge of each. Then I cut a 4' piece off each, leaving two two foot sections. Those were cut into four one foot sections. The four foot sections had two dados cut across to allow wiring to sneak under their respective faces that would touch the back of the case. I test fitted them to the case, but haven't attached them to the case or the wall yet. Tomorrow. I spent WAY too much time on my feet.

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Tomorrow I'll mount the three pieces that go on the case, ON the case, and then mount the wall pieces on the wall. I have to organize the wiring on the back and secure it so it won't be pinched, you know, neaten it up. TOMORROW.

[Hatchdog]

Awesome trick filling that 45* gap.

[BrokenolMarine]

Awesome trick filling that 45* gap.

Thanks Hatch, but the trick would have been not HAVING the gap.

I always remember the index card an old woodworking friend had tacked above his bench, faded, curling corners, the white color turning yellow with age. He said HIS mentor gave HIM the card.
In shaky handwriting it said something to the effect of,

"It's only a mistake if someone sees it happen or until you can't fix it. Until then, it's a learning experience."

I try and keep that in mind.

[BrokenolMarine]

Okay guys, here is the bold truth. Went out to mount the cleats and the pucker factor was VERY high. If I messed up screwing cleats in place and went too far with a screw in certain areas, the screw could come out thru the leather.
Yeah, "Use Shorter Screws you'd say." GREAT idea. But, the back panel is 1/2 inch thick, then the leather. If I only screwed into the back panel, say, 1/4", not much holding power. PUCKER factor is high. So, while I thought of ways to reduce the pucker factor, I decided to make the molding. (Bok, Bok, Bok... ) Yeah, call me Foghorn Leghorn, I'm chicken.

I start out with that 1/8" thick 1-1/2" wide pine. Add in the molding plane, don't need the noise and mess of the router.

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You start making passes with the rounding molding plane, and keep checking your progress and moving the plane around the edge.

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When you start on the second piece, your goal is to make them match as close as you can. The second piece is coming along, and will get there.

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Some additional work, and they are close enough since it's a minor element and most will pay little attention to it. I just want to hide the cleats from view. I will blend the junctions with the chisels and sanding.

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