Lever Action hidden "closed action" low security lock
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 2:51 pm
This will actually work on any type of action, but I wanted specifically to be able to carry my .44 Mag X lever action rifle with the lever and bolt closed and no ugly padlocks wrapped around the stock. Other than the lock hanging off the end of the barrel it is completely stealth. This lock mechanism is NOT very secure, don't rely on it 100%.
Parts needed:
1 Snap cap/ dummy action proving round, in the correct caliber. I quite like the A-Zoom version. .... https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Magnum-Snap ... B000MITQ1Y
Master Lock 8417D Python Keyed Cable Lock, 6 ft Long ... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
Epoxy - I like the original JB Weld but any strong stuff will work.
Aluminum Black cold anodize (optional) ... https://smile.amazon.com/BW-Casey-Alumi ... 922&sr=8-2
A power drill and bits (vertical drill press preferred)
Files and fine sandpaper (I used 360 grit wet or dry)
Big cutters or a cold chisel and hammer to cut the cable.
You could easily use a once fired case instead of a snap cap, but there is risk of it jamming in the chamber since you will have to remove the rim. The snap cap simply goes deep into the chamber and bottoms out in the throat.It is fairly loose and won't get stuck.
Remove the rim of the dummy completely. I attached it to my drill press and CAREFULLY used a file.
Drill out the primer pocket about 1/3 of the way down. I used a number 4 bit. Try to keep the hole as straight as possible. I held the round in a machinists vise and used the drill press.
Flip over the round and drill a smaller hole from the front all the way into the other hole. The cable is 1/8" underneath the plastic coating. I used a slightly larger number 30 bit.This hole should be a fairly SNUG fit otherwise the epoxy will try to run down into it.
Drill a larger hole from the front about 1/3 of the way. This is to enclose the housing, which is 0.192" I used a number 10 bit for a snug fit, but a little larger will be fine.
Cut the cable to the desired length, correctly - DISCARD the longer end with the crimped on retaining ring. I chose 28" so the lock will work with all but the longest rifles. The excess cable flips back and is stored in an unused hole in the lock housing. Using a razor knife, trim away the plastic from the end. For a .44 Mag case I trimmed about 1". The raw wire needs to extend all the way into the enlarged primer pocket hole, where it will be bonded with epoxy.
Secure the cut end vertically (bench vise) and clean the parts with a solvent. Insert the dummy onto the wire and spread the wire strands a little using a pointy awl or similar. Mix up the epoxy and fill the hole using a small screwdriver and your finger, push the epoxy deep down inside.Wipe off the excess and go have a beer.
BEFORE the epoxy sets rock hard (I waited 3 hours for the JB Weld) use the largest bit, spinning it in your fingers, to clean out the primer pocket area a little. If your gun's throat is shallow, this will allow some firing pin clearance. It was obviously not needed on my gun. Let the epoxy set hard (12 hours for JB Weld) clean up the raw end, and treat with the Aluminum Black. Done!
Notice how deep the round goes - this rifle has a really deep throat ;(
This shows the hole in the lock housing, that rests against the crown. It is plastic and won't hurt it. If you are anal or you have a fine target rifle, you could add a tapered brass bore guide between the crown and the lock. ... https://www.boretech.com/products/muzzle-guards1
The excess cable loops back through the unused hole in the housing:
John Davies
Spokane WA
Parts needed:
1 Snap cap/ dummy action proving round, in the correct caliber. I quite like the A-Zoom version. .... https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Magnum-Snap ... B000MITQ1Y
Master Lock 8417D Python Keyed Cable Lock, 6 ft Long ... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
Epoxy - I like the original JB Weld but any strong stuff will work.
Aluminum Black cold anodize (optional) ... https://smile.amazon.com/BW-Casey-Alumi ... 922&sr=8-2
A power drill and bits (vertical drill press preferred)
Files and fine sandpaper (I used 360 grit wet or dry)
Big cutters or a cold chisel and hammer to cut the cable.
You could easily use a once fired case instead of a snap cap, but there is risk of it jamming in the chamber since you will have to remove the rim. The snap cap simply goes deep into the chamber and bottoms out in the throat.It is fairly loose and won't get stuck.
Remove the rim of the dummy completely. I attached it to my drill press and CAREFULLY used a file.
Drill out the primer pocket about 1/3 of the way down. I used a number 4 bit. Try to keep the hole as straight as possible. I held the round in a machinists vise and used the drill press.
Flip over the round and drill a smaller hole from the front all the way into the other hole. The cable is 1/8" underneath the plastic coating. I used a slightly larger number 30 bit.This hole should be a fairly SNUG fit otherwise the epoxy will try to run down into it.
Drill a larger hole from the front about 1/3 of the way. This is to enclose the housing, which is 0.192" I used a number 10 bit for a snug fit, but a little larger will be fine.
Cut the cable to the desired length, correctly - DISCARD the longer end with the crimped on retaining ring. I chose 28" so the lock will work with all but the longest rifles. The excess cable flips back and is stored in an unused hole in the lock housing. Using a razor knife, trim away the plastic from the end. For a .44 Mag case I trimmed about 1". The raw wire needs to extend all the way into the enlarged primer pocket hole, where it will be bonded with epoxy.
Secure the cut end vertically (bench vise) and clean the parts with a solvent. Insert the dummy onto the wire and spread the wire strands a little using a pointy awl or similar. Mix up the epoxy and fill the hole using a small screwdriver and your finger, push the epoxy deep down inside.Wipe off the excess and go have a beer.
BEFORE the epoxy sets rock hard (I waited 3 hours for the JB Weld) use the largest bit, spinning it in your fingers, to clean out the primer pocket area a little. If your gun's throat is shallow, this will allow some firing pin clearance. It was obviously not needed on my gun. Let the epoxy set hard (12 hours for JB Weld) clean up the raw end, and treat with the Aluminum Black. Done!
Notice how deep the round goes - this rifle has a really deep throat ;(
This shows the hole in the lock housing, that rests against the crown. It is plastic and won't hurt it. If you are anal or you have a fine target rifle, you could add a tapered brass bore guide between the crown and the lock. ... https://www.boretech.com/products/muzzle-guards1
The excess cable loops back through the unused hole in the housing:
John Davies
Spokane WA
