Henry Rifle Forums

Anyone have Trigger Flop in their 30-30 Side Gate Model (or any other model) and if you do how did you get rid of it. I recently installed a Ranger Point Precision Thumb Screw for my Lever so I don't need a screwdriver to remove the lever. I noticed when the Hammer is now in the full cock position the trigger has some Flop to it. I then pulled the thumb screw out and put the original screw back in but the Trigger Flop is still there. I never noticed it before but I was never looking for problems. My 30-30 came with a 3.5 lb. trigger pull according to my Trigger Scale and have been very pleased with it so far. The trigger only has Flop when the hammer is at Full Cock. When the hammer is down the trigger doesn't rattle at all.

Anyone else notice this with your rifle?

interesting .... looking forward to reading responses for this one

Welcome! I have a H009 (30-30) that I do not recall having any flop. Yet, I have a Marlin 336W (30-30) that I recall does have some flop. When I inquired about it on a Marlin forum, I was informed by a Marlin's engineer that the rifle has a two piece trigger. I do not know if Henry uses two piece triggers. As long as it goes Bang!, I just keep pulling it. If it is an issue, Henry would probably address it. Give them a call. Nonetheless, happy shooting!

Well for what its worth I just went downstairs and checked my Henry 41 and a couple other guns. The Henry 22's I have are tight when cocked. The 41 has a small amount of play although its fairly snug not sloppy loose like if you were to shake the gun. I checked another gun that was in front of the safe and it also had a small amount of play in it. Its not a Henry it was a Rossi. I forgot about my 38-55 so I just went down to check it. It has less play in it than my 41 it has very little movement at all. But it has not been shot very much either that could make a difference. Like GFK mentioned if you are really concerned about it contact Henry. I do know with other brands like a Winchester 94 in 30-30 there triggers were always loose with the hammer cocked.

Well, now I'll have to go check my five lever guns and see. I will be right back.

OK, all five seem pretty snug when in the fully cocked position. Maybe keep an eye on it; any issues, give Henry a call.
I think you should be fine.

This REDDIT post/comments says it's common to leverguns. It also defines trigger flop in a short video clip.
https://www.reddit.com/r/LeverGuns/comm ... red_loose/

Other takes
https://www.marlinowners.com/threads/wh ... 36.235209/

There is a bit more. Just google search "trigger flop".

The trigger flop is caused by the slop between the trigger and sear. Replacement assemblies put a tiny spring under the heal of the sear in the left side of the picture.

Oh, and my 4 rifles, no noticeable flop. Pretty snug on mine too.
Henry's sear/trigger design is different than Marlin. Henry's also have sear spring. Maybe that spring went missing in your rifle.

From what I have gathered, Marlin and Henry both use a two-piece trigger (sear is separated from trigger). As I recall, Marlin seem to be designed to accommodate a crossbolt safety? As for trigger flop, aftermarket trigger may be the answer. Like Mags stated, the Internet offers a lot about the trigger flop. It is just a matter of what you are willing to live with. Nonetheless, hope you enjoy the rifle!

AI Overview
Marlin triggers have seen several changes over the years, including variations in the number of pieces and the integration of the sear.
1. Two-Piece vs. One-Piece Triggers:
Older Marlin lever action rifles: Typically employed a two-piece trigger design, with the trigger separate from the sear.
One-piece triggers: Some modifications and aftermarket triggers for Marlin 1894 rifles are designed as a single trigger and sear piece. This design can eliminate the characteristic "trigger flop" experienced in older Marlin rifles.
Factory triggers: In some cases, the factory Marlin triggers are a two-piece design to allow for the proper function of the lever safety.

2. Integrated Sear Design:
Some newer Marlin rifles: Such as the Model XL7 bolt-action, feature the Pro-Fire trigger system, which integrates a trigger release within the trigger itself, preventing movement until it's depressed.
Aftermarket triggers: Some aftermarket triggers, like the "Phantom Trigger" for the Marlin 1894, feature a one-piece trigger/sear design to prevent trigger bite and eliminate "trigger flop".

3. Trigger Improvements and Modifications:
Reduced trigger pull: Owners often modify their Marlin triggers to achieve a lighter pull weight and a crisper break, improving accuracy and shooting experience.
Pro-Fire system: The Pro-Fire trigger system in Marlin's XL7 offers user-adjustable trigger pull weight, as low as 2.5 pounds.

4. Safety Features:
Two-piece firing pin and trigger block: Many Marlin rifles incorporate a two-piece firing pin and trigger block to prevent accidental discharge unless the lever is fully closed. The lever has to be completely up to engage the firing pin and allow the rifle to fire.
Lever safety: Some Marlin rifles feature a lever-actuated trigger block that disengages the trigger when the lever is open. However, some one-piece trigger/sear designs may not be compatible with this lever safety feature.

In summary, the key changes in Marlin triggers over the years have included the shift from two-piece to one-piece designs, the integration of the sear in some newer models and aftermarket options, and modifications to achieve lighter pull weights and crisper breaks.

My memory was a bit foggy. Below is what the engineer wrote:

Nov 30, 2017
Tomray said:
JC, That Happy Trigger is a solution to a non-problem, in that it's an expensive way to "solve" a non-problem. The Floating Trigger in the Marlin Fire Control System is to allow the Trigger to be disconnected from the Sear so the Latching Plate can lock the Sear until the Lever in fully closed and the rife is in full battery. Also, the Floating Trigger serves to allow the shooter to actually KNOW by fee, l when the Trigger in its rearward travel has engaged the Sear. There are 3 mechanical safeties built in to the Marlin Fire Control System.............1st: The 1/2 Cock Notch on the Hammer that allows the Hammer to be positioned OFF the Firing Pin, where the Trigger cannot be activated.2nd: The Two Piece Firing Pin that automatically becomes MIS-Aligned unless the Locking Bolt has been lifted high enough to fully lock the breech Bolt and align the Rear Firing Pin to Front Firing Pin to allow straight forward energy transfer.3rd: The Latching Plate that drops into position and blocks the Sear until the Lever is fully closed. These functions are WHY the Sear is disconnected from the Trigger, and the Trigger is allowed to float...........so all of this can occur within the rifle without and influence or override from the Trigger or a bump of the trigger finger............You could probably save your $100 bucks, and just glue the OEM Trigger to the Sear.........but why would you think this is a good thing to do ?Re: Actual Trigger pull and feel............The OEM parts are simple and reliable, but they are mass produced, too. Many times they can be smoothed, and the creep reduced just by having a knowledgeable person (Gunsmith) do a Trigger Job. A OEM Trigger Job done correctly can be had for a fraction of the cost of any aftermarket trigger, and still retain all the safety features I've described above. Don't get caught up in all the marketing hype of an after market trigger..................If I were ever to inspect a used Marlin in a Gun Store and found an After Market trigger, I'd wonder what other modifications the previous owner may have made in the way of "improvement." All the Best, Tom

Nice share GFK, ole Tom knows his stuff, he was an old employee/engineer at Marlin for a long time.
He retired when it was bought out by Remington.

RP

With the sear allowed to float it can float into an unsafe position due to gravity depending on the orientation of the Marlin rifle. As GFK/Tomray shared replacing the trigger/sear with a solid one piece defeats the safety feature. Fortunately not all the trigger/sear 3rd party replacements are really one solid piece. Both those from Timney and RangerPoint are a one piece, 3 part assembly. In these solutions a hollow shaft was added to the top of the trigger for the sear to rotate on. The hollow shaft is belled on the end to keep the sear in place. A tiny spring between the sear heal and trigger keep the sear tilted into the safe position.



At $100 and more I wouldn't bother to buy one.

Here's a thread about the Marlin and the trigger flop.
https://www.marlinowners.com/threads/tr ... op.673129/

RP

Interesting piece of trivia. Earlier, when I was googling this I came across a video of guy who owned both a Marlin made in 1955 and one made in 1959. The 1959 had flop, the 1955 did not. It was his thinking that was the time frame Marlin the trigger/sear with the flop. Reading through the Marlin post I see one of the owners has no flop in his 1947 and 1948 but his 1952 does. Another his 1954 has flop. A new google search, the AI overview says the flop started to appear about 1952.

When also may be Marlin model specific. Model 1889 always had it. Model 36 never had it and Model 336 transitioned to it.
https://www.marlinowners.com/threads/wh ... rge.44889/


Back to the OP Henry question. Henry BB's and Large Frames should not have flop unless the sear spring fell out. Also it appears because of the way Henry designed their trigger/sear/spring assembly, I don't think the rifle could fire if the spring fell out. Mostly different design than the Marlins.