Henry Rifle Forums

I got the springs today from Grainger so I went downstairs and made the change to my gun. I take no responsibility for the modification in any way. I didnt discover it and take no credit for the leg work it took to find this out. Im merely passing on info to those here who own a single shot. Its a very easy mod and if I can do it anyone can. Im no engineer or gunsmith. I can see from looking at how this is done that it could have been done different perhaps with better results. First picture shows removing the butt pad. There is 2 phillips head screws in the holes at the pad. Remove those screws. Next photo shows removal of the stock there is a 3/16 allen bolt in the very center remove that . You will need a long allen head wrench or a changeable tip screwdriver which is what I used.
Next you will unscrew the spring tube. That allen head bolt you just removed screws into the base of it. You will also see the hammer arm that fits into a recessed sleeve that presses into the front of that tube. That sleeve sits on top of the spring you are about to change. There is no parts here that are going to leap out at you are catapult across the room. Next picture shows the springs. There is a little spring inside the big spring. The big spring is the one you want to change. Just take it out drop in the new big spring and put the small spring back inside of it. Then screw the tube back into place. There will be a small amount of resistance but not a big deal. Next picture shows the spring tube and the last picture shows the springs.
When done replacing spring tube reassemble the stock and pad. I thought in made a nice improvement on the hammer pull and the trigger pull. Mine is definitely better. Im not sure why one would use one spring inside of another to me. Seems like there could be some binding there with the two springs. I will leave that though to the designers to figure out another system. Right now I like the 357 Single Shot. It might have some issues that need addressed but for what you pay for them I think there a pretty good deal.

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I'd guess that the 2nd spring is needed to launch the hammer with harder force against the firing pin. Maybe get light strikes without it.

BigAl52 wrote:... Im not sure why one would use one spring inside of another to me. ...

I'm speculating on this, too. I'm thinking that the double spring is required for the rebounding hammer design, a weaker spring to keep the hammer from the firing pin, and a stronger one to overcome it when you cock the hammer, and pull the trigger to trip the sear to fire. Looking at the parts diagram in the manual, they simply show "hammer springs", parts 50a and 50b, part 51 is the hammer spring piston, which must be out of sight in the photos, remaining on the hammer spring guide. This little project sure looks doable to me, no worse than pulling the stock on a SxS shotgun to clean and lube . Thanks for putting it up, BigAl.

Great write-up, Al. I ordered some of these springs from Grainger and plan on doing the same thing to our SS44Mag.

Good deal Tad. Please let me know what you think when you do the mod.

BigAl52 wrote:Good deal Tad. Please let me know what you think when you do the mod.

Just finished putting in one of those Grainger SS springs on our Single-Shot 44 - makes it a lot easier to cock and it is now a 3 1/2 lb pull on the trigger. Much nicer than before - hopefully it still has enough punch to fire 44Mag - we'll test it out after this snow storm goes by...

You wont have any trouble that way Tad. I think you will be golden. Ive done another mod to mine because I have extra springs to play with. I will let you know what that is as soon as I test it out.

Tad
Have you had a chance to shoot that 44 yet with the new spring?

Why not just try some empty cases with just a primer. you can do that at home. Just put the barrel in a roll of insulation , it won't even sound like a cap gun.

Does anyone have the trigger spring part number from Grainger ?

Looking at the same project on another site, I see the Grainger spring identified as: #54MY45. It's 31 inch/pounds. I haven't ordered one, yet, but may need to after I check out my newly arrived (and not yet picked up) 30-30. I understand they sell them in lots of 10, with shipping it'll be around $30.00. Hopefully, one of the guys who have actually done the modification will chime in and confirm this for us.

BigAl52 wrote:Tad
Have you had a chance to shoot that 44 yet with the new spring?

Not yet - been tied up with other projects - actually kind of forgot that I have to test fire it - sure dry fires nice, though...

Yornoc3 wrote:Looking at the same project on another site, I see the Grainger spring identified as: #54MY45. It's 31 inch/pounds. I haven't ordered one, yet, but may need to after I check out my newly arrived (and not yet picked up) 30-30. I understand they sell them in lots of 10, with shipping it'll be around $30.00. Hopefully, one of the guys who have actually done the modification will chime in and confirm this for us.

You have that right, Yornoc3 - I have nine springs left over from my install - send me a PM with your address and I'll send you one - on the house...

I installed the replacement 31# Hammer Spring in the 30-30 today. One of the easiest little gun repair projects I've undertaken, for sure easier than some of the SxS shotguns I've pulled apart to clean. The hardest part was removing the recoil pad (and putting it back ). Originally, you could lift the rifle by the trigger, pull exceeded its 6 lbs 12 oz. weight. Now, the trigger pull weight is way less, I'd guess 3 to 4 lbs . I'll measure it more precisely when my snap caps arrive (I used a fired case to try it, but just a couple times).

One thing, though; the stock was no where near 60 in/lbs tight, I didn't tighten it back that tight, either, but it's good and snug, at about half that (I used a torque wrench). The bearing area for the receiver is ample, and fits real well; I think its more than strong enough for a 30-30's recoil.

BigAl52 wrote:Tad
Have you had a chance to shoot that 44 yet with the new spring?

Finally did shoot it a couple days ago - fired off 10 out of 10 rounds - all with good solid primer strikes. Trigger is nice - sometimes surprised me with how light it was - really improves the overall experience with a Henry single-shot. Thanks again for the info, Al.

tractortad wrote:

BigAl52 wrote:Tad
Have you had a chance to shoot that 44 yet with the new spring?

Finally did shoot it a couple days ago - fired off 10 out of 10 rounds - all with good solid primer strikes. Trigger is nice - sometimes surprised me with how light it was - really improves the overall experience with a Henry single-shot. Thanks again for the info, Al.

No Problem Tad. I cant take any credit for the modification as I followed along on an other forum to get the info. I merely just passed along what they did and I wanted to do it myself before I posted it here. It really did improve the single shot and I really enjoy shooting my 357 SS. Im tempted to catch one in a 30 -30 but I havent seen one for sale locally to put in my hands. I here Henry is working on another design for the trigger in the SS but I dont know that for sure. Maybe if Dan drifts in here he could give us a clue.

Al,
When I ordered my 30-30, the shop manager immediately went on line to check availability; of the four distributors they use, only two 30-30 rifles were available. So he locked one down, so to speak. Still took two weeks to arrive, and it was made Sept. 2. I've also noticed a lot of places show 45-70 rifles as out of stock, one place said backorder available, four to six months . I was checking for a friend, who shot mine and now seriously wants one. Maybe Henry will be making some revisions before they restart production of the single shots.

That would be a good deal. Maybe there is more calibers in the works to. Like a 38-55. That would be extra cool.

BigAl52 wrote:That would be a good deal. Maybe there is more calibers in the works to. Like a 38-55. That would be extra cool.

I'd buy that!

Thanks to BigAl's generosity, I did this spring swap today and 100% of what's posted above is 100% true. It's overall very easy, the recoil pad is the hardest part, extended hex needed, etc., but the results are outstanding!

The weather should clear this week, and, on Wednesday, after being closed for nearly 3 months for repairs to its rifle range, the Mo Dept of Cons range will be my destination!

Thanks again, Al, for the tips and the parts!