Henry Rifle Forums

Got out early this AM, as the itch to try this Uberti was on me!

Got the "load one, skip one, load four" figured out (with an assist from watching "The Shootist") and set up at 5 yds. Hadn't shot this many rounds at a handgun target at such a shot distance in quite a while.

As some of you may know, my revolver history/experience is not great, but this SAA seems to be the answer. I'd done some "sight picture" research, so I had a basic idea of what to look for.

Started out with five factory loads of 200 gr from Choice Ammo (courtesy of PT7!), and, man, is that trigger light. The theme here is "I'm not used to this trigger yet," and I'm sticking with that excuse for now. Those wandering shots are me, just not being used to the break point. There is NO creep whatsoever.

Moved from center of mass to head shots with my 255 gr Missouri Bullets/8.0 gr of Unique, which was a blast (pun intended).

Then I finished up with 15 shots on a second target. Again, the flyers are all "rookie trigger errors."

I'll figure it out soon, but THIS might just be a revolver I can shoot consistently!

Final pic is a holster/belt rig I have coming next week from Wylie Leather in Wyoming. Tapered 3" belt with 10 cartridge loops, cross-draw holster (which he calls "The Duke" model). Almost as cool as "Bandolier Bob"!

RR will like those targets big holes. You are hooked now. When is the 357 Uberti coming.

BigAl52 wrote:RR will like those targets big holes. You are hooked now. When is the 357 Uberti coming.

You know, before I started reloading, I wouldn't have considered another 357 revolver, but now that I've learned how to lighten the load, it's on the list!

It would have to be the 5.5", El Patron Grizzly Paws, as the grip is just right (as Goldilocks said). I have my GB shop in MN on the look-out! There aren't a lot of them out there yet...

Looks like a couple of very "leaky" bad guys, there. Nice work.

A little dry fire work can help you get used to that trigger. No need to over dot it, though. I don't believe in heavy dry fire work with a revolver - it can cause unnecessary wear and tear. Cock the gun, slowly, so you don't peen the cylinder notches. A little dry fire work with a new revolver to learn the trigger is certainly justified, though.

Also time to review basic handling with a gun that has a light trigger for the sake of safety. Not saying you're doing it in an unsafe manner, here. Just thought this might be a good time for everyone who shoots handguns to review some basic safe handling techniques.

Here's a good article on the proper safe draw with a single action revolver, though it's an adaptation of the modern safe draw for semi-autos. Essentially, it means you DON'T cock that hammer as you draw from the holster and you DON'T touch that trigger until the gun is out in from of you and sights lined up on target.
https://www.shootingillustrated.com/art ... f-defense/

Even when at the range and not drawing form the holster, but simply shooting targets, I see a lot of shooters who cock the hammer as they are raising the gun and doing it with their finger on the trigger to boot. Bad, bad habit. Gun out straight and on target, first, finger off of the trigger, then cock the hammer. Next, sights on target, then, and only then, touch the trigger. This is a routine I rigidly follow when shooting all handguns, but if you think that single action trigger is touchy, try shooting a Contender handgun or match handgun with much lighter triggers. Very dangerous guns to shoot in the hands of someone with bad handling habits.

All great points, NCG!

When it comes to some dry-firing, would snap caps be a good idea, or does it matter with this integrated firing pin (part of the hammer) design?

Great report, Evan! Thanks for the details and for sharing your excitement with us.

Snap caps are a bit of a controversy. Some folks think they are necessary to prevent firing pin damage on a centerfire gun, but I'm one that does not. The caps really do very little to cushion the firing pin, anyway, but if it makes you feel better to use them, go for it. Again, this is assuming that you are only dry firing, now and then, in order to familiarize yourself (or re-familiarize yourself) with the trigger and, again, cocking the gun, gently, not slamming the hammer back and playing cowboy. Sitting in front of the TV and dry firing a revolver for hours is another thing, entirely. Some folks do it, but not me.

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I think the purpose of the snap caps isn't to cushion the tip of the firing pin, but to prevent the shoulder of the firing pin from impacting the inside of the bolt where the firing pin passes through the bolt orifice. I believe the rationale is that enough dry fires may deform the pin shoulder and bolt orifice and eventually cause the firing pin to get sticky or stuck. That shared, I don't think it matters for revolvers.

North Country Gal wrote:Snap caps are a bit of a controversy. Some folks think they are necessary to prevent firing pin damage on a centerfire gun, but I'm one that does not. The caps really do very little to cushion the firing pin, anyway, but if it makes you feel better to use them, go for it. Again, this is assuming that you are only dry firing, now and then, in order to familiarize yourself (or re-familiarize yourself) with the trigger and, again, cocking the gun, gently, not slamming the hammer back and playing cowboy. Sitting in front of the TV and dry firing a revolver for hours is another thing, entirely. Some folks do it, but not me.

oops, duplicate post erased.

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I like what I'm seeing in what you're sharing. Got me rethinking my wish list 3/4 size Stallion .38 for a full size revolver. I already have a revolver that shoots .45 colt, but it is a pain to shoot even with the rubber recoil absorbing grip. How is yours on the hand and wrist?

ESquared wrote:...