Cleaning a SA revolver

[markiver54]

Please forgive my novice question.
quite simply, how is the easiest way to clean a SA revolver. Just got my first and it occurred to me that unlike my DA's, I can't just flip the cylinder out to clean. In this case, 10 cylinders. Does the whole cylinder have to be removed? I know this might be a silly question to all you SA owners, but it's new to me. Any guidance is appreciated.

[CT_Shooter]

Yes, Mark. The cylinder has to be removed to clean the revolver. It's pretty easy to remove and replace it. This video shows how Hickok45 does it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwG8xhuVgTM

Please forgive my novice question.
quite simply, how is the easiest way to clean a SA revolver. Just got my first and it occurred to me that unlike my DA's, I can't just flip the cylinder out to clean. In this case, 10 cylinders. Does the whole cylinder have to be removed? I know this might be a silly question to all you SA owners, but it's new to me. Any guidance is appreciated.

[Mistered]

That gun should have the standard Ruger quick release cylinder pin.
It should be in the instructions.

[markiver54]

Yes, Mark. The cylinder has to be removed to clean the revolver. It's pretty easy to remove and replace it. This video shows how Hickok45 does it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwG8xhuVgTM

Please forgive my novice question.
quite simply, how is the easiest way to clean a SA revolver. Just got my first and it occurred to me that unlike my DA's, I can't just flip the cylinder out to clean. In this case, 10 cylinders. Does the whole cylinder have to be removed? I know this might be a silly question to all you SA owners, but it's new to me. Any guidance is appreciated.

Thank you Stan. Just finished watching the video. Very helpful!

[markiver54]

That gun should have the standard Ruger quick release cylinder pin.
It should be in the instructions.

Thank you as well ED!...Duh on me. Just figured it out. Very easy...

[North Country Gal]

Removing the cylinder on a single action reminds of several Clint Eastwood westerns where he carries extra cylinders for his blackpowder Colt Walker or an 1860 Colt Army and uses them for reloads. No base pin, as on those pre-1873 Colts, but pretty neat to watch him do his reloads that way. Watch Outlaw Josey Wales. In Pale Rider, though, he switches the Colts for a blackpowder Remingtons.

[markiver54]

Removing the cylinder on a single action reminds of several Clint Eastwood westerns where he carries extra cylinders for his blackpowder Colt Walker or an 1860 Colt Army and uses them for reloads. No base pin, as on those pre-1873 Colts, but pretty neat to watch him do his reloads that way. Watch Outlaw Josey Wales. In Pale Rider, though, he switches the Colts for a blackpowder Remingtons.

Yes, funny you should mention that NCG, was just picturing that this morning! have seen those movies several times....thanks

[BrokenolMarine]

In reality, I always thought single actions were easier to clean.

[markiver54]

In reality, I always thought single actions were easier to clean.

I think you may be right Jim! Don't have that DA cylinder hanging off the side.
Total removal, as easy as it is, will definitely make cleaning ten chambers a lot easier! ( I bought a single ten ) recently.

[GunnyGene]

Please forgive my novice question.
quite simply, how is the easiest way to clean a SA revolver. Just got my first and it occurred to me that unlike my DA's, I can't just flip the cylinder out to clean. In this case, 10 cylinders. Does the whole cylinder have to be removed? I know this might be a silly question to all you SA owners, but it's new to me. Any guidance is appreciated.

No such thing as a silly question. Besides the cylinder, and depending on how long it's been between cleanings, I'll also remove the grips, and possibly do a complete disassembly looking for any signs of corrosion, etc., as well as apply appropriate lube. Same routine for all my firearms, SA or otherwise. The equivalent of a "detail" job on a expensive vehicle.

PS: one other thing: NEVER use a steel brush on it, and go easy on solvents. Here's why (although this is far more critical on ELR rifles):

Parts 37 through 45: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... vDCIcEPxUn

[markiver54]

Please forgive my novice question.
quite simply, how is the easiest way to clean a SA revolver. Just got my first and it occurred to me that unlike my DA's, I can't just flip the cylinder out to clean. In this case, 10 cylinders. Does the whole cylinder have to be removed? I know this might be a silly question to all you SA owners, but it's new to me. Any guidance is appreciated.

No such thing as a silly question. Besides the cylinder, and depending on how long it's been between cleanings, I'll also remove the grips, and possibly do a complete disassembly looking for any signs of corrosion, etc., as well as apply appropriate lube. Same routine for all my firearms, SA or otherwise. The equivalent of a "detail" job on a expensive vehicle.

PS: one other thing: NEVER use a steel brush on it, and go easy on solvents. Here's why (although this is far more critical on ELR rifles):

Parts 37 through 45: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... vDCIcEPxUn

Thanks Gunny. Mine is brand new, so won't need to clean for a bit. It' my first SA though and that is why I scratched my head at first.
I appreciate your input!

[GunnyGene]

Please forgive my novice question.
quite simply, how is the easiest way to clean a SA revolver. Just got my first and it occurred to me that unlike my DA's, I can't just flip the cylinder out to clean. In this case, 10 cylinders. Does the whole cylinder have to be removed? I know this might be a silly question to all you SA owners, but it's new to me. Any guidance is appreciated.

No such thing as a silly question. Besides the cylinder, and depending on how long it's been between cleanings, I'll also remove the grips, and possibly do a complete disassembly looking for any signs of corrosion, etc., as well as apply appropriate lube. Same routine for all my firearms, SA or otherwise. The equivalent of a "detail" job on a expensive vehicle.

PS: one other thing: NEVER use a steel brush on it, and go easy on solvents. Here's why (although this is far more critical on ELR rifles):

Parts 37 through 45: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... vDCIcEPxUn

Thanks Gunny. Mine is brand new, so won't need to clean for a bit. It' my first SA though and that is why I scratched my head at first.
I appreciate your input!

On a new gun, I'll do a full disassembly before I pull the trigger for the first time, to make sure there's no burrs, cleanup any machining marks etc. and that it's properly lubed. I don't trust the factory.

[BrokenolMarine]

In reality, I always thought single actions were easier to clean.

I think you may be right Jim! Don't have that DA cylinder hanging off the side.
Total removal, as easy as it is, will definitely make cleaning ten chambers a lot easier! ( I bought a single ten ) recently.

You also don't have to clean under the extractor star and those nooks and crannies. At the end of a competition season I would break my comp guns down really detail clean them so I'd start the new season off right, but during matches with down time, I'd run a tooth brush under the back of the star and in that hidey-hole where it seats in the cylinder, then a six brush rod into the chambers of the cylinder a couple passes to knock out any buildup. I'd hate to lose a huge cluster of points because a speed load failed when the extractor wouldn't seat or a round failed to go fully into the chamber due to gunk. On a heavy match day we'd shoot 300 rounds or so.

[BigAl52]

Just a thought Mark I drop mine into a pint mason jar with enough Hoppes #9 in it to cover the cylinder. Tall slender olive jar works good to. I let it soak in that and then use the cleaning rod on it. Takes a lot of the cleaning rod work out of it letting it soak especially over night.

[markiver54]

Just a thought Mark I drop mine into a pint mason jar with enough Hoppes #9 in it to cover the cylinder. Tall slender olive jar works good to. I let it soak in that and then use the cleaning rod on it. Takes a lot of the cleaning rod work out of it letting it soak especially over night.

Good tip Al. Anything to make a job easier the better! When I get down to it, I'll probably do that.
Work smarter, not harder...right!

[CT_Shooter]

I do something similar, Al.

I cut lengths of paper towels the width of the cylinder, roll them up into a coil and place one each in the chambers before I place the cylinder in a shallow bowl. Then I soak the paper towels with Ballistol until a small puddle forms beneath the cylinder and leave it there for a few hours or overnight. Next I use a nylon brush to scrub it inside and out, wipe it down, and put it back in the revolver. Like your method, it works really well.

Just a thought Mark I drop mine into a pint mason jar with enough Hoppes #9 in it to cover the cylinder. Tall slender olive jar works good to. I let it soak in that and then use the cleaning rod on it. Takes a lot of the cleaning rod work out of it letting it soak especially over night.

[markiver54]

Those .22 chambers are pretty small. What kind of brush do you guys use to get in them? or do you just use patches?

[CT_Shooter]

For my .22 SAA, I use a jag and patches; for my .357, I use a nylon brush that came in a gun cleaning kit and that fits nicely.

Those .22 chambers are pretty small. What kind of brush do you guys use to get in them? or do you just use patches?

[North Country Gal]

The only time I use a brass brush in the chambers is if I have a crud buildup that doesn't respond to a patch or bore mop. To be honest, this doesn't happen too often. More likely to happen if you shoot a Short in an LR chamber, 38s in a 357 and so on.

A brass brush is something I only use for fouling. On a revolver, you'll most likely get lead fouling at the cylinder face, yoke, throat area, top strap above the cylinder gap and sometimes in the barrel just forward of the throat. A lot depends on the individual revolver, though. Some shoot much cleaner with no leading even after a long range session. A revolver like this wins a lot of points with me. A lot of revolvers lead up a bit by the end of the session. This is more typical. Doesn't make them a lemon, assuming they shoot well and have no function issues. Just means more to clean. On the other hand, a gun that leads up so bad it causes failure to operate, excessive spitting and so on is a sign of a serious problem and should get the attention of a gunsmith or a call to the manufacturer. You should not continue to fire such a gun. Rare, but it does happen. Have had a couple.

[markiver54]

The only time I use a brass brush in the chambers is if I have a crud buildup that doesn't respond to a patch or bore mop. To be honest, this doesn't happen too often. More likely to happen if you shoot a Short in an LR chamber, 38s in a 357 and so on.

A brass brush is something I only use for fouling. On a revolver, you'll most likely get lead fouling at the cylinder face, yoke, throat area, top strap above the cylinder gap and sometimes in the barrel just forward of the throat. A lot depends on the individual revolver, though. Some shoot much cleaner with no leading even after a long range session. A revolver like this wins a lot of points with me. A lot of revolvers lead up a bit by the end of the session. This is more typical. Doesn't make them a lemon, assuming they shoot well and have no function issues. Just means more to clean. On the other hand, a gun that leads up so bad it causes failure to operate, excessive spitting and so on is a sign of a serious problem and should get the attention of a gunsmith or a call to the manufacturer. You should not continue to fire such a gun. Rare, but it does happen. Have had a couple.

Always appreciate your info NCG...thanks.