Sight adjustment

[markiver54]

The front sight on my new SGC definitely needs to be drifted. Don't have a brass punch, so tried with an oak dowel. Would not budge. Probably because of the light weight gun vise I have resulting in inadequate resistance when hitting the dowel. Started using a rawhide hammer just to be safe. No luck, then a regular hammer, again no luck. I'm sure all because of movement of the vise. Thought the dovetail would move more easily. Sure don't want to mar up a new rifle. How do you people secure yours safely enough to get that sight to drift? Don't want to have to go to the local gunsmith for what I think should be a simple task. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

[North Country Gal]

Do get a brass punch. An oak dowel will absorb too much of the energy from your hammer. In a pinch, you can put a brass shell casing over a regular punch, but the brass punch is the way to go. Skinners will have one for you. While you're at it, getting a triangular file, too, for trimming dovetail sights when you change front or rear sights.

[tractortad]

You need a good bench block and a solid bench to rest the muzzle on while drifting the sight. If you don't have a good bench block you can use a roll of black electrician's tape on its side. NCG's suggestion of using a shell casing over a regular punch is good idea - I've used a spent 22 casing on a regular steel punch to drift sights before I got a good brass punch from Skinner. Sometimes you have to really hit it hard to get some first movement on those front sights, but eventually they move...

[Mags]

.
I'd have the rifle laying on it's side on top of a solid work bench with an appropriate thickness slab of wood to uniformly support the length of the barrel. Then punch as NCG shared.

The front sight on my new SGC definitely needs to be drifted. Don't have a brass punch, so tried with an oak dowel. Would not budge. Probably because of the light weight gun vise I have resulting in inadequate resistance when hitting the dowel. Started using a rawhide hammer just to be safe. No luck, then a regular hammer, again no luck. I'm sure all because of movement of the vise. Thought the dovetail would move more easily. Sure don't want to mar up a new rifle. How do you people secure yours safely enough to get that sight to drift? Don't want to have to go to the local gunsmith for what I think should be a simple task. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

[PT7]

If a dovetail is particularly hard to drift, I've used a couple of drops of RemOil on it. Seems to help it move easier...
PT7

[markiver54]

Have been off line all day. Tab ran out of gas, had to fill-r-up. Thank you all so much for the very valuable advise. I'm going to apply methods learned here tomorrow. Just never " drifted " a sight before. Only mechanical, rear sights for windage and elevation. Even though I have shot off and on for over 50 years, I'm totally guilty of pretty much overlooking too many details. Great to have support. Big thanks to ALL!!
Not too proud to say, I still need mentoring at 64

[markiver54]

Do get a brass punch. An oak dowel will absorb too much of the energy from your hammer. In a pinch, you can put a brass shell casing over a regular punch, but the brass punch is the way to go. Skinners will have one for you. While you're at it, getting a triangular file, too, for trimming dovetail sights when you change front or rear sights.

Will do NCG, punch and file both. Is the angle of the dovetail and a standard triangular file the same? I think I have a small one out in the shop. Then all I need is the punch! Also, will lightly filing hurt anything? ( blueing, finish, promote rust etc.? )

[markiver54]

If a dovetail is particularly hard to drift, I've used a couple of drops of RemOil on it. Seems to help it move easier...
PT7

Will try the Rem Oil if needed. I'm gonna move that sucker one way or another.

[markiver54]

You need a good bench block and a solid bench to rest the muzzle on while drifting the sight. If you don't have a good bench block you can use a roll of black electrician's tape on its side. NCG's suggestion of using a shell casing over a regular punch is good idea - I've used a spent 22 casing on a regular steel punch to drift sights before I got a good brass punch from Skinner. Sometimes you have to really hit it hard to get some first movement on those front sights, but eventually they move...

Thank you Tractotad. A real good first tap/hit may just be the answer along with all other techniques offered so far.

[Flinch]

When drifting sights by pushing or tapping them, I place a piece or two of blue masking tape over the work I am going to contact with the sight tool or punch. As a matter of fact, I use blue masking tape to protect any finished metal work around the area where I am going to drive pins in our out.

[markiver54]

When drifting sights by pushing or tapping them, I place a piece or two of blue masking tape over the work I am going to contact with the sight tool or punch. As a matter of fact, I use blue masking tape to protect any finished metal work around the area where I am going to drive pins in our out.

Thanks for the input Flinch...I had thought about protecting that area. Think I have some blue masking tape. Going out today to LGS to find a brass punch. I think I've seen them in Walmart as well though. Looked at the Skinner online, but just want to get this done so I can at least head to the indoor range.

[ESquared]

Skinner also sells the triangular file you need, it you can't find yours. It's non-abrasive on one side of the triangle, and that's the side that goes down against the bottom of the dovetail (i.e.- against the barrel) and the filing takes place against the angled sides of the dovetail. I hope that makes sense. Have used mine repeatedly. A very worthwhile purchase, as was this simple punch set from Midway.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/41151 ... -punch-set

Best $16 I've spent on a gun tool.

[markiver54]

I saw those on the Skinner web site, might just go for them, thanks Evan. I kinda like the side, thumb adjuster for the Skinner. Makes sense to me...should be included or mounted from the factory. Wouldn't have to keep track of that tiny allen wrench.

[Cofisher]

You know , Mark, my front sight was difficult also. I used a 22 case on a punch. It did take a good wack to start it moving. After that, just persistance.

After I filed the bead off, the reinstall was ok. Not easy, but solid.

Good luck.

[markiver54]

You know , Mark, my front sight was difficult also. I used a 22 case on a punch. It did take a good wack to start it moving. After that, just persistance.

After I filed the bead off, the reinstall was ok. Not easy, but solid.

Good luck.

I'm letting some oil soak in to it overnite. Have the punch and .22 case ready.
What bead are you referring to though?

[Cofisher]

I removed the brass bead, and its mounting. All I left is a blade. It works very well with the Low Pro mounted on the receiver.

[markiver54]

I removed the brass bead, and its mounting. All I left is a blade. It works very well with the Low Pro mounted on the receiver.

Hmmm...I'll have to take a look at that.

[markiver54]

Ya know...I might just go to the indoor range tomorrow and see if the Skinner windage adjustment will move enough to make up for the bead offset...just want to shoot...

[Cofisher]

IMG_0117.JPG

This is what I have after the bead removal. It is very visible using the Skinner peep. Not for everyone, but it works well for me.

[markiver54]

Thanks for the pic Cofisher. Might go to range today just to see where I'm at, then decide from there what improvements might be needed.