Spring has sprung. Get out and shoot your Henry

Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Tell us how you do it
Post Reply
BMCTED
Wrangler
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2021 12:35 am
Location: central NoGa.
United States of America

Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Post by BMCTED » Fri Dec 16, 2022 10:09 am

I don't recall when I found Ed Harris' recipe, but I know I made my first batch a long time ago. The first gallon lasted quite some time, I made the second batch about 3 years ago. Since I found it, it's become the only thing I use and it does a very good job.

Every time I've shared this recipe I get chewed out. People seem to get insulted that it even exists. "THIS AND THAT IS CHEAPER" , "THIS AND THAT WORKS BETTER", "THIS AND THAT SMELLS BETTER", "I CAN'T UNDERSTAND WHY SOMEBODY WOULD EVEN WANT TO MAKE SOMETHING LIKE THAT".

I've heard it all a thousand times.

Oh well. I use it and like it, it works for me. Just thought I'd pass it on.


"ED'S RED" FORMULA

From The Cast Bullet Journal, No. 140, July - August 1999 Dangerously Close to the Beltway "Ed's Red" -- Revisited By C.E. "Ed" Harris

Since I mixed my first "Ed's Red" (ER) bore cleaner five years ago, hundreds of users have told me that they find it as effective as commercial products. This cleaner has an action similar to military rifle bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. It is highly effective for removing plastic fouling from shotgun bores, caked carbon in semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or leading in revolvers. "ER" is not a "decoppering" solution for fast removal of heavy jacket fouling, but because is more effective in removal of caked carbon and primer residues than most other cleaners, so metal fouling is reduced when "ER" is used.

Claude Copper and I researched the subject rather thoroughly and determined there was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The resulting cleaner is safe, effective, inexpensive, provides good corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication. Routine oiling after cleaning is unnecessary except for storage exceeding 1 year, or in harsh environments, such as salt air exposure. The formula is adapted from Hatcher's "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No. 18", but substitutes equivalent modern materials. Hatcher's recipe called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratt's Astral Oil, land sperm oil, and (optionally) 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin per liter of cleaner.

Some discussion of the ingredients in "ER" is helpful to understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works. Pratts Astral Oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. Today you would ask for "K-1" kerosene of the type sold for use in indoor space heaters.

An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron II automatic transmission fluid. Prior to 1950 most ATFs were sperm oil based. During WWII, sperm oil was mostly unavailable, so highly refined, dewaxed hydrofinished petroleum oils were developed, which had excellent thermal stability. When antioxidants were added to prevent gumming, these worked well in precision instruments.

With the high demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATFs in the needed quantities, so the wartime expedients were mass produced. ATFs have been continually improved over the years. The additives contained in Dexron include detergents or other surfactants which are highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative.

Hatcher's Frankford Arsenal No. 18 used gum spirits of turpentine, but turpentine is both expensive and also highly flammable, so I chose not to use it. Much safer and more inexpensive are "aliphatic mineral spirits", which are an open-chain organic solvent, rather than the closed-chain, benzene ring structure, common to "aromatics", such as naptha or "lighter fluid". Sometimes called "safety solvent", aliphatic mineral spirits are used for thinning oil based paint, as automotive parts cleaner and is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits", "Stoddard Solvent", or "Varsol".

Acetone is included to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for caked smokeless powder residues. Because acetone readily evaporates and the fumes are harmful in high concentrations, it is recommended that it be left out if the cleaner will be used indoors, in soak tanks or in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. Containers should be kept tightly closed when not in use. "ER" is still effective without acetone, but not as "fast-acting".

"Ed's Red" does not chemically dissolve copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job of removing carbon and primer residue than most other cleaners. Many users have told me that frequent and exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted powder fouling left behind by other cleaners. This reduces the abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore, leaving a cleaner surface condition, which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience indicates that "ER" will actually remove metal fouling in bores if it is left to "soak" for a few days so the surfactants will do the job, when followed by a repeat cleaning. You simply have to be patient.

Addition of lanolin to "ER" is optional, because the cleaner works perfectly well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication without it. Inclusion of lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases its lubricity and film strength and improves corrosion protection if firearms, tools or equipment will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, or corrosive urban atmospheres.

I recommend the lanolin be included if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long-term storage or for a "flush" after water cleaning of black powder firearms or those fired with military chlorate primers. This is because lanolin has a great affinity for water and readily emulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving a protective film. If you inspect your guns and wipe them down twice yearly, you can leave out the lanolin and save about $10 per gallon.

At current retail prices, you can buy all the ingredients to mix "ER", without the lanolin, for about $12 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does for me and hundreds of users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.


CONTENTS: "Ed's Red Bore Cleaner"

1 part - Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part - Kerosene - deodorized, K1.
1 part - Aliphatic Mineral Spirits CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
1 part - Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store.)


MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in "ER" will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty ATF container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:

FIREARM BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Contents: petroleum distillates, surfactants, organometallic antioxidants and acetone.

Flammable mixture, keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

FIRST AID: If swallowed, DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately.

In case of eye contact, immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact, wash thoroughly.

\Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain damage and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation, wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:

Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.
Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner to soak will improve its action.

For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled service rifles, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner many be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.

Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back through the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average atmospheric conditions.

If lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years, even in a humid environment. (For longer storage use Lee Liquid Alox or Cosmoline). "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmoline.

Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes.

Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS a good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out.
Last edited by BMCTED on Sat Dec 17, 2022 10:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
1 x

Bake
Cowhand
Posts: 106
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2020 7:34 pm
United States of America

Re: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Post by Bake » Fri Dec 16, 2022 1:27 pm

Glad to see your outstanding write-up on Ed's Red. I thought I was the only one in the world who used it. I like to add one more thing to your write-up. Be sure you don't let any of it get on your stock; it peeled the finish right off of one of my old rifles :o . . .
1 x

BMCTED
Wrangler
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2021 12:35 am
Location: central NoGa.
United States of America

Re: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Post by BMCTED » Fri Dec 16, 2022 4:29 pm

Bake wrote:
Fri Dec 16, 2022 1:27 pm
Glad to see your outstanding write-up on Ed's Red. I thought I was the only one in the world who used it. I like to add one more thing to your write-up. Be sure you don't let any of it get on your stock; it peeled the finish right off of one of my old rifles :o . . .
Hey there ...

I only wrote the intro ... Ed wrote the rest of it. I just cut the article and ran it through Word a long time ago.

Ed did mention that it's harmful to wood finishes, so you need to be careful.

I like that its a lubricant as well as a cleaner.
0 x

Ozarkwoodswalker
Cowboy
Posts: 1088
Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:24 pm
Location: Missouri
United States of America

Re: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Post by Ozarkwoodswalker » Fri Dec 16, 2022 4:48 pm

Thanks!
0 x

User avatar
daytime dave
Administrator / Owner
Posts: 4815
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:27 pm
Location: Upstate NY
United States of America

Re: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Post by daytime dave » Fri Dec 16, 2022 5:21 pm

I tried it many years ago. It works but I chose to discontinue using it as it doesn't mix well with the stock finish as mentioned.
1 x
Some days I'm Andy, most days I'm Barney........
Eaglescout, NRA Life Endowment member, BCCI Life Member

User avatar
Mr. Neutron
Cowhand
Posts: 350
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2022 7:34 pm
Location: Near Boring, Oregon
United States of America

Re: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Post by Mr. Neutron » Sat Dec 17, 2022 9:57 am

When I shot and ran the Action Pistol & Steel Speed matches years ago, only lead bullets could be shot in those events. The bounce back effect from jacketed bullets hitting our falling steel plates and targets and then bouncing back to hit the Range Officer (me, at that time) and the shooter was not a very welcome thing. Since lead bullets seemed to "spatter"a lot less, we made it mandatory to shoot lead bullets.

So, Ed's Red and a Lewis Lead Remover kit were standard stuff for cleaning our guns. Both of these items work great for cleaning the bores on our handguns.
1 x
Jimmie

An Okie living in Oregon

H009G
H004
H009BG
"Never miss a good chance to shut up." Will Rogers
"It's better to eat yer fruit before ya shoot it." youtuber WHO_TEE_WHO

singleshooter357
Tenderfoot
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2021 12:04 am
Location: NE Alabama
United States of America

Re: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Post by singleshooter357 » Sun Feb 19, 2023 2:18 pm

Son in law made up a batch a few years back and gave me a couple of spray bottles full. Really shines on cleaning but it is the cat's meow in removing powder fouling from cylinder face on a handgun. Easy Peasy.
0 x

User avatar
markiver54
Deputy Marshal
Posts: 10281
Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2018 11:49 am
Location: Biue Ridge Mountains, NC
United States of America

Re: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Post by markiver54 » Sun Feb 19, 2023 4:46 pm

It may work great, however, I choose to not use anything that could be harmful to my gun stocks.
0 x
I'm your Huckleberry

Post Reply