Henry Rifle Forums

Finally mounting the scope to my BBS. Don't have professional leveling tools, just a well calibrated torpedo level. Read mostly bad reviews on the little Wheeler levels so trying to get by with what I have. My question is; can I assume that the front plate of the semi buckhorn between the ladder and dove tail is level with the barrel enough for an accurate reading ?

I wouldn't assume the sight blade is level, no, though it would make a good reference to get close. Have seen some factory open sights that were canted, one way or the other, to actual level with the gun receiver.

I know the issue of how to level a scope can be a real headache for many folks and you'll likely get all sorts of recommendations. Experience helps. I've done literally hundreds of scope mounts, now. I don't use any tools or gadgets. I just go with what looks right. One thing I do for consistency, though, is level the scope relative to the way the gun will be rested. For me, that is offhand, standing position. Have found that leveling the scope while in a standing position works best for me. It's then still pretty level when shooting the gun off a rest. On the other hand, leveling the scope with the gun on the rest often takes the scope way off level when I then go to a standing position. Not much help, I know, but hopefully others will chime in on what works for them.

markiver54 wrote:Read mostly bad reviews on the little Wheeler levels so trying to get by with what I have.

I've been using Wheeler Professional Reticle Leveling System for the last couple of years .... 5 Star rating, 464 reviews at the link below .... I've found that if you are willing to take your time, they do a very good job ....


https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Professi ... +kit&psc=1

Thanks a bunch NCG. Your experience and logic make a lot of sense! New post, so I would like to see if anyone else chimes in. Been sitting here kinda frustrated for the last couple hours.

JEBar wrote:

markiver54 wrote:Read mostly bad reviews on the little Wheeler levels so trying to get by with what I have.

I've been using Wheeler Professional Reticle Leveling System for the last couple of years .... 5 Star rating, 464 reviews at the link below .... I've found that if you are willing to take your time, they do a very good job ....


https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Professi ... +kit&psc=1

Yes, I saw the Wheeler professional has great reviews, however a tad pricey along with all I've spent recently.

I think the best way for me is standing in my gun room with a plumb line on the far wall and lining the reticle up on the plumb line. Then I hold the rifle out to where I only see a small area about the size of a dime in the center and look to see if the vertical part of the reticle lines up with the center of the receiver at the rear. Then tighten the ring cap screws and check every thing again to make sure the scope didn't shift in the rings. The plumb line helps me a lot.

Thank you bandit. Combining what you're saying along wit NCG, it would seem that maybe I'm making this more rocket science than it has to be. I've just never mounted an optic cause I always had pretty good eyes. Just too much of a perfectionist I guess.

markiver54 wrote:Thank you bandit. Combining what you're saying along wit NCG, it would seem that maybe I'm making this more rocket science than it has to be. I've just never mounted an optic cause I always had pretty good eyes. Just too much of a perfectionist I guess.

It can get more complicated than it needs to be. The problem with the reticle not plumb creates a problem similar to canting your rifle. What way the reticle leans is the way the bullet will be off. The farther the distance the more it is off. Bench shooters I know say you should make a plumb line on a target and make sure it is actually plumb. Shoot at that plumb line and the then move your adjustments up or down. If you move it up and it goes left the cross hair is tilted left. If you move the adjustments down and it goes right of the plumb line it is still tilted left. If it shoots right when moving adjustment up it is tilted right. Move it down and goes left it is tilted right. They also have rifles that will group in to a single hole. Confused now! I even confused myself. I don't bother with their way because I don't have bench rifles and I do it my way and get good results so best leave all that technical stuff to the "one holers." I agree with NCG on the standing position working better.

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I used automotive blade feeler gauge stackup under the turret adjustment knobs. The underside of my scope turret is flat as is the top of the ring mounting base on the rifle. I just squared up the bottom of the turret to the top of the base with the stack of blades slid snugly in between.

markiver54 wrote:Finally mounting the scope to my BBS. Don't have professional leveling tools, just a well calibrated torpedo level. Read mostly bad reviews on the little Wheeler levels so trying to get by with what I have. My question is; can I assume that the front plate of the semi buckhorn between the ladder and dove tail is level with the barrel enough for an accurate reading ?

The plumb line is a good trick. Have used it, myself.

One more to add. If you obsess too much and spend too much time trying to get the crosshairs just right to the point of fatigue setting in, put the gun down and come back for a try, later. Anther good check is to follow up the next day, for the same reason. More than once, after spending a lot of time trying to get the crosshairs "just right", I've come back the next day when I'm fresh and scratched my head and wondered what cross-eyed idiot tried to level this scope?

Whew! I do feel a lot better about the whole dang thing after all of your responses. Haven't tightened the rings down yet. Put the rifle away about two hours ago. Will re-visit tomorrow as NCG suggested. I will let you know, FWIW when I get it done. Much appreciated info!!!

A lot of good advice here. I've used the wheeler levels that came with some tool sets, they're helpful, but not foolproof. I also use the plumb line approach, coupled with the put it down and check again later plan . There was an article in Rifle Magazine a while ago (2 or 3 years?) that discussed how much cant it takes to really affect accuracy. It matters a lot to the real long distance shooters, to those of us shooting at a couple hundred yards, and mostly less, a little won't matter much. Probably undetectable if you're shooting a 45-70 .

Yornoc3, thank you as well....seems like everyone on this forum are helpful, friendly, knowledgeable and tolerant. What a great resource!!

Yornoc3 wrote:A lot of good advice here. I've used the wheeler levels that came with some tool sets, they're helpful, but not foolproof. I also use the plumb line approach, coupled with the put it down and check again later plan . There was an article in Rifle Magazine a while ago (2 or 3 years?) that discussed how much cant it takes to really affect accuracy. It matters a lot to the real long distance shooters, to those of us shooting at a couple hundred yards, and mostly less, a little won't matter much. Probably undetectable if you're shooting a 45-70 .

For most of us shooters that are not long range precision shooters and not having the high tech stuff those guys have or competition rifles capable of extreme accuracy at very long distance we won't notice the difference for most of our shooting except when you look through the scope and it looks canted. Get it as straight as you can for you and don't worry about it as long as it shoots well for you. Some people cant a rifle so bad you have to mount their scope canted for it to be straight for them. When I worked at the LGS I mounted hundreds of scopes for people. I always put it straight for me and handed it to them with the rings still loose and left them decide if it needed moved for them. Some moved it so far that the vertical reticle was at the edge of the back of the firing pin on a 700 Remington. That is off a long way from being straight.