Henry Rifle Forums

I did a search on this topic and not much came up except for the link at the bottom of this post.

I could accessorize until the cows come home, but I'm trying to be prudent. When it comes to rests and Henrys with scopes, is there a right way vs. a wrong way?

Sled type vs. the "bag rests" (front and rear)?

All I'm wanting to do is zero in (and check from time to time) scopes, and my indoor range has nothing but a slip-on table-top that affixes to the bench in front of you. Don't know about the outdoor ranges in my area, but will be checking them out next week.

The rest referred to in a post from quite a while ago was this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-Adjusta ... B003FSQOTU

And then there's this type, and Caldwell also makes a similar Rear Rest.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BY9G5K/?c ... _lig_dp_it

Or should I just find a range that can help me do it? Seems like it would be easy to spend another $50-$100 on something I might only use once or twice (per year, maybe).

As always, thanks in advance!

I think a lot depends on the amount of the "shooting experience" you want to retain. For example, the led sleds can kind of remove you from the equation, but serve their purpose. I guess it depends on what you want to do with the rest. I'm sure a lot of people here have more than one.

I'm not worried about one that absorbs the recoil, so I guess I want the full shooing experience. Based on what I've learned about zeroing in scopes, it just seems that it needs to hold the rifle in a very stable position after the first shot to that the reticle can be adjusted to zero in the scope. Seems like a two person job, but I dunno, I'm new here!

as with so many other things, it all boils down to personal preference .... I have several different types and have come to prefer the one in your first link .... I use it for both rifles and handguns ....

JEBar wrote:as with so many other things, it all boils down to personal preference .... I have several different types and have come to prefer the one in your first link .... I use it for both rifles and handguns ....

Well, that's exactly right, JEB. More research, but input welcome! Thanks for your recommendation!

JEBar wrote:''' it all boils down to personal preference .... and have come to prefer the one in your first link ....

same here as JEBar. The sled at the first link is good for removing the shooter from the variables for verifying rifle accuracy and scope zeroing. That one is pretty inexpensive. Anyway, I want to be the best as I can get at off hand shooting, so I wouldn't use it for practice shooting.

I have ones similar to each. I have only used the bag type though (the other sled type does have a small bag for the forearm as well). It seems to be at a good height and compact. Plus, the bag seems to conform to the forearm lessening movement. But, I am not expect. Yet, it does allow me to steady the rifle which works for me.

P.S.
The link below may stimulate some ideas:
http://www.sportingshooter.com.au/news/ ... techniques

I use what is similar to what I'm going to hunt with, i.e, rifle resting on stacked bags. I can't see a reason to use something different at the range than I'm going to use in a blind or "real life" shooting (hunting) scenario.

I'm with you, Jake, I'm not wanting a new thing to practice with. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to zero in a scope on my own, but maybe it is best done with help, professional or otherwise...
Which means I probably don't need any new equipment, just some help!

I use a laser boresighter. I like my scopes sighted to 75-100 yards. I have figured out that sighting them in at 50 feet gets them real close on paper at 100 yds.

ESquared wrote:I'm with you, Jake, I'm not wanting a new thing to practice with. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to zero in a scope on my own, but maybe it is best done with help, professional or otherwise...
Which means I probably don't need any new equipment, just some help!

E^2, try not to over think it. zeroing isn't very hard to do. It's less time consuming if you start with a laser bore sight. The laser will get you close to zero and then following up with 3 groups of 3 shots you should achieve the zero of your choice. For example dead on zero at 50 yds or 1 inch high or whatever sight picture you choose. Old school without a laser bore sight it will take quite a few more rounds down range to get at the zero you want. But you'll have fun shooting while you do it. In old school I'd recommend a sled like you identified in your first link.

With a laser sight, a Vangard Porta-Aim fore rest and 9 rounds I got the zero I wanted. The remaining variability is me moving while shooting.

5 inch Paddles at 75 yds.

I echo bore sighting. It helped get me in the ball park. I had it done by a range I was using. The rifle was supposedly bore sighted from the factory. I think that was not the case. Help may not be a bad thing. But, I think you will probably be able to do it. Either way, start as close as you can see where the bullets are hitting (i.e. 15 yards, 25 yards, etc.). Then, follow the directions of how to adjust your scope accordingly. Once you achieved your desired zero, move further out and zero (i.e. 50 yards or 100 yards). From what I have read, different scopes may settle after zeroing. So, it is good to check your zero some time afterwards (a few days or week later). I check mine periodically.

These links gave me some ideas:
https://m.wikihow.com/Sight-In-a-Rifle
https://m.wikihow.com/Zero-Your-Rifle-Scope

GFK wrote:I echo bore sighting. It helped get me in the ball park. I had it done by a range I was using. The rifle was supposedly bore sighted from the factory. I think that was not the case. Help may not be a bad thing. But, I think you will probably be able to do it. Either way, start as close as you can see where the bullets are hitting (i.e. 15 yards, 25 yards, etc.). Then, follow the directions of how to adjust your scope accordingly. Once you achieved your desired zero, move further out and zero (i.e. 50 yards or 100 yards). From what I have read, different scopes may settle after zeroing. So, it is good to check your zero some time afterwards (a few days or week later). I check mine periodically.

These links gave me some ideas:
https://m.wikihow.com/Sight-In-a-Rifle
https://m.wikihow.com/Zero-Your-Rifle-Scope

Mags wrote:

ESquared wrote:I'm with you, Jake, I'm not wanting a new thing to practice with. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to zero in a scope on my own, but maybe it is best done with help, professional or otherwise...
Which means I probably don't need any new equipment, just some help!

E^2, try not to over think it. zeroing isn't very hard to do. It's less time consuming if you start with a laser bore sight. The laser will get you close to zero and then following up with 3 groups of 3 shots you should achieve the zero of your choice. For example dead on zero at 50 yds or 1 inch high or whatever sight picture you choose. Old school without a laser bore sight it will take quite a few more rounds down range to get at the zero you want. But you'll have fun shooting while you do it. In old school I'd recommend a sled like you identified in your first link.

With a laser sight, a Vangard Porta-Aim fore rest and 9 rounds I got the zero I wanted. The remaining variability is me moving while shooting.

5 inch Paddles at 75 yds.
paddle.jpg

Great advice, men, I hadn't even thought about bore sighting as part of the process but that makes perfect sense. More research to do!

Thanks, as always!

Some .357 laser bore sights. Make sure to check for an on/off switch. My didn't so I have to remove the batteries to shut it off.

skip past the 'sponsored' sights those aren't .357. .357 list comes after the sponsored list.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss ... bore+sight

Shakey Jake wrote:I use what is similar to what I'm going to hunt with, i.e, rifle resting on stacked bags. I can't see a reason to use something different at the range than I'm going to use in a blind or "real life" shooting (hunting) scenario.

I agree. Use whatever rest you like at the range to help sight in the gun, initially, but at some point, use the rest/shooting position you plan to use in the field to do your final sighting in. A gun will shoot, differently off a mechanical rest versus a traditional bag rest versus shooting from an unsupported shooting position in the field.

Thanks, Mags, very helpful. Almost as complicated and cluttered up as scope shopping!

North Country Gal wrote:A gun will shoot differently off a mechanical rest versus a traditional bag rest versus shooting from an unsupported shooting position in the field.

So using a lead sled or similar to set up a scope is not ideal, in your mind? I’ve heard other people say this, and I get why the actual behavior of the rifle will be different off of different types of rests, but to me it makes sense to have the gun as steady as possible when siting in a new scope. The rest I have is not going to absorb any substantial amount of recoil, it’s just going to allow me to take the “shakey james” out of the equation. Seems to me like that would be a good idea?

Redthies wrote:

North Country Gal wrote:A gun will shoot differently off a mechanical rest versus a traditional bag rest versus shooting from an unsupported shooting position in the field.

So using a lead sled or similar to set up a scope is not ideal, in your mind? I’ve heard other people say this, and I get why the actual behavior of the rifle will be different off of different types of rests, but to me it makes sense to have the gun as steady as possible when siting in a new scope. The rest I have is not going to absorb any substantial amount of recoil, it’s just going to allow me to take the “shakey james” out of the equation. Seems to me like that would be a good idea?

This is exactly what had me scratching my head about sled-type rests. If one is a hunter, about the only need for a sled rest is to sight in a scope, it seems to me. Other than that, you'd want to practice in more "field-like" conditions, as NCG points out. Don't see many sled rests in deer blinds or tree-stands.

Bags, then, are different, as they are portable and might be used in some form or another in hunting scenarios, no?

All this leads me to a bore sight/bag combo as a likely path.

Nothing wrong at all about using a sled type rest for initial sighting in, nothing wrong with it at all. In fact, some folks like to use these rests for all their range shooting. It's a great tool. If it helps, by all means use one, and do so with my blessing. Don't want to leave the impression that they are not something to consider. We have enough snobbery in the shooting community without adding more snobbery about what rest you use.

Just remember that you may have some more sight adjusting to do when you shoot without one. I don't use one because I learned to shoot before there were such rests. I grew up using bags for rests or whatever was available as make do rests. Also, not a lot of my shooting, any more is with rests.

There's snobbery in the shooting community?