Damascus and Turquoise

[BrokenolMarine]

Worked in the shop yesterday, starting on the silver bar to cut and shape the bolster and end cap. The first step was to create templates for transfering the designs to the bar, and later the cocobolo to get the pieces as close as possible before cutting. First I retraced the basic shape of the knife again, creating a duplicate base for the templates and the design.

05 duplicated.jpg

Next, I covered both sides of the original with shipping tape, which is thick and clear. This stiffens the folder material.

06 taped.jpg

VERY carefully, I cut out each section and then trim the tape as closely as possible to the segment. I now have a template for each section of the knife scale. I transfer the design for the scales to the duplicate base.

templates.jpg

Using the bolster template, I started cutting the Nickel / Silver bar with the jeweler's saw. I was shocked at how hard this was. Thirty minutes of cutting only got me across the 1" wide bar. I took a break and came in the house to look into cutting options? Then I remembered my scroll saw, which I rarely use these days. I looked up "Metal cutting scroll saw blades." Yup, $12 a dozen on Amazon. I think I'll give those a try.

I'll still be able to use the jeweler's saw for bone, and softer metals like brass or copper.

[BrokenolMarine]

We have to make a run to OKC today, so I'll either work this afternoon, or be back at it tomorrow. Watch this space.

[BrokenolMarine]

I posted a query on a couple of my forums seeking advice on making the cuts in the Nickel Silver. I gave it a shot today using two of the pieces of advice I got. I used a new hacksaw blade and lubed it with beeswax to see if it would work. Cut a razor straight 3" cut, then two cross cuts with no issues, slow and steady. The old friend on the woodworking site said I could use my bandsaw with the blade slowed down, and regularly lubed with beeswax to make the same cut. I stuck with the hacksaw. I should get to shaping my four nickel silver components over the next couple days.

I have a project for Miss T for the kitchen in progress as well.

[BrokenolMarine]

Got some work done on the knife this morning... I started by dressing the straight edge on the two pieces cut for the end cap. In any "fine" work you have to have a reference point. The straight edge will be the reference point to work off of for the end cap. The cocobolo pieces will butt up to this edge.

08 end cap edges.jpg

I aligned the template for this piece of the handle puzzle on the edge and marked it in pencil being careful not to move the template as I worked around the edge.

09 endcap template.jpg

Once I had a pencil line, I used a scribe to etch the line into the metal as the pencil could be lost while cooling the metal as it is shaped. The endcap will only see the sanding disc on the belt sander. The bolster will see both the belt sander and the oscillating sander.

10 endcap prepped.jpg

After about an hour of careful shaping, with cooling every ten to fifteen seconds in a water bath, the pair of endcaps were shaped.

11 pair shaped.jpg

The small defects in the edges will be polished out when the pieces are smoothed and shaped after being mounted on the knife. We will go up from this original 80 grit, all the way thru 120, 220, 340, 400, 600, 800, 1,000, 1,500, 2,000, and 3,000 grit to achieve the glow we want. Even a final buffing with Jeweler's Rouge.

[BrokenolMarine]

Next up I worked on the bolster pair. Basically a repeat of the endcaps. A tad more challenging due to the shape, a few more complex angles and curves. If you look at the template, you can see what I mean. First I had to trim off a bit of excess tape.

12 bolster template needs trimmed.jpg

Another hour or so, but I started on the belt sander's disc, and hit the straight angles. Once those were done, I moved to the Oscillating Sander and addressed that long curve. The cocobolo panel will nest in that curve on the lower end of the handle. The Turquoise pieces had been cut a couple weeks ago, and will get trimmed to fit once I begin assembly. We are at the point now that we can look at preparing to cut that cocobolo and beginning that fitting process.

13 getting closer.jpg

I'll also have to drill into the knife blank for a single hole for the bolster and end cap to be securely anchored. That will be a pucker factor moment.

[BrokenolMarine]

Got in the shop today, and in addition to planer work on the kitchen project, I was able to spend some time on the turquoise pieces for the knife.
First I cut a square of 80 grit sandpaper and wet it, then put some soapy water on the turquoise for lube and polished and squared three sides. The tops will get highly polished after the knife is assembled and the handles go thru shaping.

It's important to smooth the bottom and sides somewhat to insure a tight fit with the cocobolo panels. Once that was done, I marked the angles and length from the template and used the table top disc sander to bring the pieces into length and shape to match the template. (close but not too close.)

14 turquoise trimmed.jpg

All in all about an hour's work. Once the pieces are glued in place and the knife is assembled, all the final shaping can begin. Once that is done, the entire knife can be sanded thru the grits and the silver and turquoise can be polished to a high luster.

[BrokenolMarine]

Today's task is cutting out the cocobolo panels. The first step was the layout. I found the grain pattern I liked and luckily it was at the end of this nice piece. I was able to use the same section and just lay them out side by side so there would be very little waste. I sometimes bleed in some of the sap line, but I wanted all dark wood in the panels to make the silver and turquoise pop, so... the sap line was excluded.

15 cocobolo panel.jpg

I couldn't resist laying out the "hardware" on the panels before I cut them out for a peek at the contrast. I think it will look really good if it turns out like it should.

16 goes here.jpg

I set up the scroll saw for the cuts as the band saw wouldn't make as sharp a cut as I needed. I had recently cleaned and waxed the table top and the scroll saw would but like butter. I made the first rough cuts, then laid out the design so I could cut away the areas where the nickel silver and turquoise would be and leave the necessary panels.

17 cut and marked.jpg

\


I made the initial cuts on the scroll saw, staying just inside outside the pencil line for safety, knowing I'd use the disc sander to accurately bring the panels right up to the line, especially the leading curved edge on the one end of the panel closest to the bolster. Worked like a champ. Even though the panels were a bit oversized, by careful alignment we get a feel for the look of the knife.

18 properly aligned.jpg

Satisfied, I marked and cut the second panel. Just a rough layout, but you get the idea. Once they are both glued and pinned in place after careful alignment, they can be shaped and polished and it should look pretty good.

19 rough cut.jpg

A peek at the scroll saw, which did most of the work on these panels. The disc sander was only a five minute touch, and I could have done the same with sandpaper on the bench top. (Yeah, yeah, the disc sander was faster and easier.)

[BrokenolMarine]

I'm Back

I know the Calf and the Kitchen Cabinet project pushed this aside for a good while, but when the wife asks, you sometimes (OFTEN) put your own projects on the back burner... but I'm back at work on this one ... and I'll alternate between the knife and the range culvert. It rained all day yesterday, and the ground was too wet to run the tractor on the range today, so I got back at this. I'll run the tractor for a session, then work sitting in the wheelchair in the shop on this knife... it'll get done. Mainly this was set aside because the work tables were needed for the range cabinet project.

Yesterday I cleaned up from that while it was raining and got the Oscillator and the bench top belt sander and vacuum back in their spots. This morning I spent some time fitting and marking the left side panels for the move from rough shape to close shape and then started shaping them on the Oscillating Sander.

21 oscillator.jpg

In order to make sure everything was going to fit and match up, I started by making sure the two bolsters were the same size. Since the left side bolster was the smaller of the two, by a hair, I used it to mark the right side and then brought the right side down to match the left. That took about an hour as the nickel silver is HARD and I didn't want to have to start over by going too far. Sand it, check it, Sand it, check it.

22 bolsters.jpg

They are very close in this picture. A tad more and they matched right up.

[BrokenolMarine]

I set aside the right side for the day, and worked on each component of the left side, bringing them CLOSE to the blank but leaving final shaping for after the glue up. I didn't worry about the turquoise or the RED carbon fiber spacers. I tested the fit of the forward cocobolo scale, got it where I wanted it... then marked the back side. Then I sanded it just to the line, but not over.

Then I fitted the spacer, turquoise, spacer. Fitted the rear cocobolo panel and when it was fitting tight, I marked it... then sanded it close, just TO the line and not over. I have NOT fitted the Nickel Silver end cap. When you compare the left side fit and the unshaped and resized Right side the difference is obvious.


The resized and reshaped LEFT side components:

23 resized reshaped.jpg

The right side components will be the next targets for attention. I'll use the left side pieces for templates.

24 needs resized reshaped.jpg

I'll have to use the HIGH Dollar bits to drill the special holes in the Blade Blank for the bolster and the end cap. THAT will be a pucker factor.
Stay tuned.

[BrokenolMarine]

We had a couple days of marginal weather this past few days, and I had some unexpected news that caused me to need some quiet time to myself. I went into the shop and found solace in the project that has been delayed and delayed by other priorities. First, I matched the left side pieces of the scales, with the matching pieces on the right side and reshaped them. With that out of the way, I set up the Drill Press with the 1/8" Carbide Bit and prepared to drill the holes for the pins for the Bolster and End Cap.

25 drilling blank.jpg

High Speed Carbide Bit
Lubricating Oil
Patience not to rush...


I had four holes to drill and I took my time with the setup and alignment for each. Insured the blank was locked into place, and then made sure to avoid overheating the blank by slowly making each cut, and insuring the cut stayed oiled. I think we did fine.

26 four new ones.jpg

The next step will be gluing on the bolster and drilling thru the one side. Then gluing on the opposite side and drilling thru and setting the pins.
Prior to that step I'll need to round the front edge of both since trying to do that once they are in place could lead to scarring of the blade blank.


We wouldn't want that.