Henry Rifle Forums

Well, I'll put the cocobolo scales on the blade, the brass bolsters, and make the leather tooled sheath. I can do the build along if enough of you want to watch, or just post the completed project pics. The friend has done a lot for me, and he may get TWO if the special one turns out. Let me know if y'all are interested in a build along.

That would be great to watch!

I'm going to take all the pics anyway, if a few of you want to watch, I'll take the time to do the write up and post them. I'm retired, I have time. Boy, do I have time.

Great... i will enjoy watching the progress

Okay, here we go. Let's look at the checklist. I make a checklist so I don't miss something.


It's saved to the computer in word so I can add to it. I'm always open to suggestions, as I know I'm an amateur at this. The first step, NOT on the checklist is to lay things out to make sure I have everything. Maybe that SHOULD be step one.


This is the Blade Blank and Brass Bolster Set from Jantz Knives in Davis Oklahoma. Yes, some of you may spot a sleeve from a knife kit from Woodcraft in the corner of some of the pictures... but as always, when I move from one project to another I clean the area and straighten the spaces. I was neatening the drawer that contains the knife kits. The old sleeves contained unused Rivet Screws where I used Brass Rods on a couple of older knife builds in place of the screws. I consolidated them into one small ziplock and tossed the old sleeves cluttering the drawer.


Step ONE on the checklist. Choose the wood. Doc wanted Cocobolo. I had several pieces and looked thru them all. I found a corner edge of one that contained a nice swirl at just the right location. From experience, I know that it might disappear as I shape the scales, but it could stay with us. You never know. But, this corner was highly figured. Sometimes you just get a deep rich color. I could live with that. I set up the bandsaw and cut off the end.

After cutting the end of the board, I laid the blank on the block and marked the shape on the edge, careful to place the blank in the location that would put the swirled grain at the location where I wanted it. I used a scribe to mark the curved edge. I then used a square to mark the widest point. The initial cut would be made on that point, then I would cut the finger grooves and leave the rest oversized at FIRST. I would also leave the back flat.


I measured the thickness of the blank, and then using a marking tool, marked the center of the edge in preparation of bookmatching the scales. That is, cutting down the middle and opening them up like the pages of a book. This gives you two identical halves with matching grain. THIS is why I did NOT cut the arched spine of the back side of the knife. The flat back edge makes for a safer cut on the bandsaw, and the arch is easily rendered during sanding later.


The bookmatch cut is critical, and can be dangerous if not done safely. As you can see in this picture, I used a guide on the left side, I push block to hold tight on the right, and a sacrificial push block to feed the scales thru. I fed slowly and let the bandsaw cut thru and didn't force the cut. This avoided burning the wood. It also avoided kickback and Jumping forward. I fed thru until the blade cut into the sacrificial block insuring my scales were clear then shut down the saw with the push block in contact.


Only then did I remove the scales, the guides and the pushblock. Reaching around the moving blade is asking for trouble. I have seen it done, and sadly, HAVE done it in the past. If doing high volume production work, Miss T stands on the other side of the saw and "Catches" WHEN told to catch, but not until.

This is a very poor picture as the angle distorts the lower scale and makes it look MUCH larger than it is. Remember these were bookmatched and are exactly the same size. I did not cut away the extra length on either end yet, and will remark both scales after pinning the bolsters temporarily in place. They will be cut to be about 1/16" oversized all around but to butt up tight against the bolsters. If, by some error there was a gap, I'd fill it with an accent material, such as copper, turquoise, or ebony. I stopped here for the night. I am time limited in the shop due to my physical challenges. I can stand only short periods. When I get into sanding and shaping I can work longer as that can be done from my chair.


Note that the brass bolsters will also require fitting and polishing to achieve decent fit and their polished look. We have some work ahead. We are still on step three.

Wood River makes some decent steel. Done a several of their blades as you are. Fun projects, and cocobolo is a beautiful wood, but I'd suggest not putting any finish on it except possibly wax (Renaissance). It's a very oily wood as it is, so gluing can be a problem. Wipe down the glue surface after sanding with denatured alcohol before glue up. It also doesn't really need anything besides a final sanding on the show face with at least 1500 grit paper, and wax. Good choice.

Yup, I have built boxes, grips, and knives with it before. Prior to glue up, removing surface oils really does improve performance of adhesives. I usually use my British beeswax finish and buff.

Here are two Tantos I did earlier in the year. One if cocobolo and the other walnut. The sheath was one of the first group I made, and a learning process. It was left natural, but I stained it today and treated it with neat's foot oil. I have come a long way since that sheath. I have made four of these Tanto's and they are good knives from Woodcraft. Everyone who has gotten one likes them.