Henry Rifle Forums

I am reloading for 45-70 and 44 mag rifles. Jacketed bullets with canure. Both sets of dies are Redding. I like them very much but I seat and crimp in separate operations. So i'm tired of readjusting the dies every time I use them. I intend to buy separate crimp dies and wanted to know what brand is thought to be the best? I hear a lot about Lee factor crimp dies. And is that the same as Lee taper crimp dies? I see them both advertised on e-bay for under $20. thanks

Taper crimp is for ammo like 9mm and 45 acp. Rimless cartridges.
For 44 mag and 45/70 you need a roll crimp to keep the bullets from moving in the brass under recoil while they are in the cylinder or magazine.

I'll let someone more experienced answer the which is best question.

we've been using the same RCBS 3-Die Carbide Set like the one in this link --http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-3-Die-Carbid ... B000MOGTD6-- to reload 44 Mag shells for our Ruger Redhawk (and now for our Henry) since the mid '60's .... no telling how many tens of thousands of rounds that set has loaded, we have something over 800 rounds on hand right now .... the crimping die does a consistently outstanding job ....

I hear you on the crimp and seat in separate operations but I found that you can do both if you crimp in the forward part of the canlure. Where most people get this wrong is trying to roll the case when it's only slightly over the recess. But I also am a fan of Lee factory crimp dies and use them on cases such as 30-30 win because they are so weak you can't roll them without risking moving the shoulder. But 44 mag I just roll and seat at the same time.

Thanks guys, the Redding dies are terrific and roll crimp. I haven't tried seating and crimping in the same process. But I do crimp at the forward of the canure that's where the correct OAL. is. So I will give it a go and see how they come out. if not for $20 bucks I can keep my dies adjusted and buy a separate crimp die.

I had trouble getting a good crimp on .44 special cases using .44 magnum dies so I bought a Lee factory crimp die for the .44 . It works great for both magnums and specials. The only other factory crimp die I have is for .45 ACP. As stated previously this case headspaces on the rim so it gets a taper crimp. I am very happy with both dies.

My bad ,edit isn't working. .45 ACP. headspaces on the CASE MOUTH.

Squatch wrote:Taper crimp is for ammo like 9mm and 45 acp. Rimless cartridges.
For 44 mag and 45/70 you need a roll crimp to keep the bullets from moving in the brass under recoil while they are in the cylinder or magazine.
.

+1 ..... Each cal all have little different quirks . So no nothing should be put in stone which way is best in reloading ammo . I like to do all my crimps separate because I can feel the crimp and if there is a problem with brass you can pick it up there a lot of times . I try never to say the word reload .... I make custom ammo and it far better then factory ammo plus I can tailor the ammo for type of shooting I'm doing . My cowboy ammo is 750 fps . my defense ammo is 1000 fps and hunting at max fps .

Lee Factory Crimp Die is a big no no if you ever intend to load lead bullets. The carbide ring in the FCD tends to swage down the bullet inside the case, causing it to be undersized. I've had terrible leading problems in my Redhawk until I quit using the Lee FCD. Now I use an RCBS seat/crimp die and perform both operations in one step. All has been right with the world ever since.

adirondack wrote: I hear a lot about Lee factory crimp dies.

I only reload .357 magnum jacketed bullets and have always used the Lee Factory Crimp Die that came as part of a four die set. I do know that a .358 lead bullet will be squeezed down to .357 by it, so for those that need or want .358 lead bullets, it shouldn't be used. But, for those of us that just use jacketed bullets, I think it's a great tool, and it doubles as a cylinder gauge.

I also learned something about crimping in general back when I was shooting bench rest rifle. Crimping is not necessary for anything other than getting a round into the chamber with the same OAL you started out with at the loading bench. There are tons and tons of writings on the net and in books concerning the usefulness or lack of with bullet crimping. Bench Rest shooters don't crimp.

So, with any method all you need is sufficient crimp to keep your assembly assembled until you pull the trigger. This is far less crimp than most people apply when reloading.

I use the Lee Factory crimp to remove the flare and then I test push the round on the bench, if it moves I need more but if it will not move I am done with crimp.

Everyone who writes pro or con on this issue brings up factory ammo at some point and they use this as a justification for excessive crimping of handloads. But the truth is; factory tolerances and stack up of same will not allow for custom light crimping. In order to insure sufficient crimping they use excessive on average, but they no choice.

There is another argument that crimping aids ignition and full burning of powder. Given that the chamber pressure is about 1/3-1/4 of peak before the bullet is engraved in rifling the added very few pounds pressure from a brass crimp seems insignificant in the overall pressure in the chamber.

Bottom line: Don't over crimp.

Good information, eldermike. There is an art to the science, which is most enjoyable.

eldermike wrote:Bottom line: Don't over crimp.

But, in a Henry's tube magazine, if you don't want your 2nd or 10th bullet moved deeper into its case, roll crimp just enough! Thanks for the good advice. Lifelong learning is a treasure for the human spirit.

tx gunrunner wrote:

Squatch wrote:Taper crimp is for ammo like 9mm and 45 acp. Rimless cartridges.
For 44 mag and 45/70 you need a roll crimp to keep the bullets from moving in the brass under recoil while they are in the cylinder or magazine.
.

+1 ..... Each cal all have little different quirks . So no nothing should be put in stone which way is best in reloading ammo . I like to do all my crimps separate because I can feel the crimp and if there is a problem with brass you can pick it up there a lot of times . I try never to say the word reload .... I make custom ammo and it far better then factory ammo plus I can tailor the ammo for type of shooting I'm doing . My cowboy ammo is 750 fps . my defense ammo is 1000 fps and hunting at max fps .

Well said I like handload, also.

I didn't really know Crimp, but I'm sad to hear he has died. He will be missed.

Oh, wait- you mean dies that crimp ammo. Never mind.

I've used roll crimp dies with plated and never had that issue. I've switched to coated, and haven't looked back.