Henry Rifle Forums

Seems to me like my .45-70 brass fails much sooner than my .357 magnum or ,44 magnum brass. Sometimes after just 3 reloads, I have a failure. Always the same kind - a split that begins in the case mouth. Even though just a small split, I choose not to use them again. So far I have only used Remington and Starline brass. Just curious if anyone else has noticed this behavior with your .45-70 brass.

That type of split tells me you are working the case mouth too much. Maybe try less of a crimp and use the minimum flare at the case mouth. Just use enough flare to get the bullet started. Hope this helps.

Paul

Headhog wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:37 pm

Maybe try less of a crimp and use the minimum flare at the case mouth.

Paul

agree

I have Federal, RP, and WW brass and I do get split necks but it is very rare . Some I have reloaded five or six times. What brand of dies are you using?I have Marlin G.G .but most of my 45-70 shooting is done with my Rolling Block some of it with black powder duplex loads.

I have 'nicked' 45 colt brass that looks similar. My mistake in not having the case mouth aligned when putting it into the RCBS Prep Center deburring bit. I inadvertently lowered the case mouth on the edge of the bit instead of inside it. The cutting edge snagged the case mouth nicking it.

Travlin wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 05, 2022 6:28 pm

I have Federal, RP, and WW brass and I do get split necks but it is very rare . Some I have reloaded five or six times. What brand of dies are you using?I have Marlin G.G .but most of my 45-70 shooting is done with my Rolling Block some of it with black powder duplex loads.

I use Lee dies.
The only rifle I use for these is my Henry BBS .45-70.

The cases do not split during the reloading process. The splits appear after the rounds were fired but I went ahead and cleaned the split brass with the other brass.

I think you may be missing the point. The reloading process overworks the brass and make it weak and brittle. Then the brass splits when fired next time. So back to my original post and try less crimp and less flare.

Paul

I use Lee case lube but do not lube the inside of the case.
I use three types of bullets. 405 Gr. LRNFP coated bullets from MBC, Hornady 300 Gr. Interlock HP, & Hornady 350 Gr. Interlock FP.

I don't know anything about annealing. Never have done it or seen it done.

Steve51 wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 07, 2022 4:41 pm

I use Lee case lube but do not lube the inside of the case.
:
:

Case mouth lube powder. Stick the case into the little cup and the case mouth will get a little powder lube inside and out.
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Dry-Case-Ne ... 168&sr=8-5

Case mouth lube powder. Stick the case into the little cup and the case mouth will get a little powder lube inside and out.

Agree with this VERY MUCH!!! I use the "Mica" stuff that i got from Midway last century, and it works fine. I had a problem with one of my steel RCBS sizing dies. The expander ball gizzie for the inside of the neck had quite a bit of drag when you pulled the case down. I began lubing the INSIDE of the case with the Mica lube before I re-sized, and it ended that problem......

Mr. Neutron wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 07, 2022 8:32 pm

... I had a problem with one of my steel RCBS sizing dies. ...

I forgot mouth lube one time. A .30-30 case got stuck in the sizing die.

Bake wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 07, 2022 5:38 pm

I assume you're using regular reloading brass cleaner material, not some commercial brass cleaner [like Brasso] with ammonia; with enough time, ammonia will eat the brass up . . .[/size]

I use Frankfort Armory walnut media for cleaning cases.

I watched the video on annealing. Seems simple enough - THANKS FOR POSTING!

I was gonna mention annealing but I see that's covered I reload 45-70 but zero splits. Crushed a few and over crimped a couple (newbie) but splitting hasn't happened yet. Good help all!