Help with resizing 30-30

[Mistered]

Does this sound like a logical plan for "captive brass," or am I missing something?

It sounds to me like you have somehow strayed into the technique of 'neck sizing only' based on your statement of

my plan is to size this "once fired by only me" brass primarily at the shoulder

If this is the case please stop here.
Neck sizing is a procedure that is typically used by those reloading for specialized scenarios such as long range benchrest shooting with bolt action rifles where the utmost in consistency is important to maintain tight chamber pressure from round to round for the utmost in accuracy.
This is not a technique that is required and/or necessary when loading for a lever action 30-30 and quite frankly could cause cycling problems with non-full length sized brass. Also 30-30 brass is typically thinner and neck sizing only could cause loading issues when seating bullets and crimping.
Full length re-size with the standard die and press on.

[Rifletom]

I would agree with Mistered here. "Neck sizing" with 30-30 brass isn't going far enough with those thin cases. It's just a different animal than with bolt action rifles. FL and you'll be fine. 30-30's are pretty much a straight forward endeavor.

[ESquared]

Either I didn't explain if correctly or I'm on the wrong path. I intend to fully resize the casing, but i want to zero in on the shoulder dimension and maintain it as close as possible. My assumption is that this will still re-distribute the brass such that I'll need to trim the case to the proper length.

This may all be barking up the wrong tree when it comes to my 30-30 efforts, and that's okay. Given your comments about it being more common in bolt actions, it may be more appropriate for the 308 LR, in that it seems more "bolt-like" than the standard Henry Lever action.

I haven't even bought the 30-30 die set yet. Any recommendations would be welcome, just to aid in my research phase.

[Mistered]

The nature of the 30-30 action is such that it benefits from full-length sized brass and any additional steps are really unnecessary.
If you use a trimmer such as the Lee you will be, in effect, checking case length and trimming at the same time - I.E. if the trimmer cuts the case it was too long and is now trimmed to the correct length - if the case does not reach the cutting tool it's a bit short - but it doesn't mean it's TOO short either and this is where the FCD shines - it is not case length specific and will crimp the proper length case as well as one that is a few 'thou' too short. Cases that are a bit short will 'grow' with use.
If you want some die recommendations all the quality name brands work well (opinions vary and mine run to 'green') HOWEVER I was given a set of Bonanza (now Forster) Bench Rest DIes and can honestly say they are superior when it comes to the bullet seating step. The seating dies have a spring loaded sliding sleeve that supports the bullet into a perfectly vertical position and holds it all the way to final seating.
You do not need the 'micrometer' version of this die - the standard model works fine as it is the spring loaded sleeve that is the 'heart' of the system.
Because of this they are slightly faster to use as you do not have to ensure the bullet is setting in the mouth of the case vertically and stays there until you start seating. The Bench Rest seating die aligns the bullet as soon as it enters the die.
The other manufacturers no doubt have similar style dies but the only one I have is the Bonanza and that is for my .223 and I am going to get a Bench Rest seating die only for 30-30 and .243 as soon as some pop up on Ebay.

[Ojaileveraction]

ExE,
If your going to be shooting 30-30 loads in 35000 cups and above range, bumping the shoulder won't help to much with case life or how often you have to trim.

I eventually started to want to try custom resizing my 30-30 loads.
To Set my die correctly I used a headspace comparator gauge getting before and after measurements, then mesureing and remesureing to get the die set correctly.

You got to know were you are before you can get to were you are going.

After that I was able see/feel the difference using the LE Wilson gauge.

Bottle neck cases are a little different than straight wall. Just having to lube before resizing is a learning curve.

It may take a hundred or so to get the kinks out.

Back to my fist point

The higher the pressure in the case the shorter the case life necking, bumping or full resizing.

I'm full resizing my 30-30 brass now because I'm reloading for two rifles. I still keep to moderate pressures. And I find the shoulder adjustment is something less than .005" using my LE Wilson gauge.

[Mistered]

You got to know were you are before you can get to were you are going.

I agree - and one of the ways to do this is to not start out by trying to 'fix' something you don't even know is an issue yet - and in this case may never be.
Just Keep it simple to start, FL resize, load and shoot!

[Ojaileveraction]

I'm not saying don't do it, just get the basics down first.

There are many white rabbits to chase down holes in reloading.
Case capacity, concentricity, flash holes, neck tension, jam or jump, case length, OAL, on and on.

I do admit to only neck sizing the two straight wall cartridges I reload.
357 mag and 45-70.