Paper Target Help

[Sir Henry]

I have the perfect targets for globe/ peep sight combinations. These two black circle targets are perfect because I can use the correct size peep and globe so I can see center by allowing for the same distance of white around the black in the sight picture. Those are for 50 and 100 yards. I ran out of the 25 yard targets. At the correct distance the black bullseye is the same size so I can use the same peep and globe inserts.

What I am finding is they do not work for post sights because it’s black on black. The target to the left works great for open sights but it’s for 100 yards which is really beyond my abilities. Anyone have a good recommendation for 50 and 25 yards?

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Out of all my targets these are the only ones that seems to work. Those smaller targets in the drawer are for airgun.

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[BigAl52]

Next time Im at Genes I know where to get some free targets

[Vaquero]

Right!!

RP

[North Country Gal]

One way to beat that black on black with a blade front on those all black bulls is to paint the front sight a high viz color or even get a fiber optic front. Not a perfect solution, because in some lighting conditions you see only a silhouette of the sight, not the color or fiber optic. This usually happens when the light is in your eyes. Best to have the light behind you to avoid the silhouette effect. (Standard all black bulls are also ideal for use with a red dot, but I know you're not wild about red dots.).

Another option for using a blade front to avoid losing it in a black bull is to use a colored bull, like an orange or a yellow. This is very effective at short ranges, but it gets hard to see the colored bulls at longer distances.

Those bulls with the light centers are ideal with a scope. That's where I use them. Beats losing a reticle in an all black bull.

Lastly, I and other iron sight shooters using a six o'clock, sometimes leave just a sliver of daylight between the top of the blade and the bull to avoid losing the blade in the bull. Takes some practice to do it, consistently, as far as that sliver of daylight, but it works.

Hint: When using a six o'clock, start with the blade directly below the bull with some light showing, then slowly and carefully bring up the blade to where you want it, visually "tickling" the bull. Do this religiously the same way for every shot. I find that the consistency of having a set routine for lining up the sights does translate into better groups.

[Sir Henry]

One way to beat that black on black with a blade front on those all black bulls is to paint the front sight a high viz color or even get a fiber optic front. Not a perfect solution, because in some lighting conditions you see only a silhouette of the sight, not the color or fiber optic. This usually happens when the light is in your eyes. Best to have the light behind you to avoid the silhouette effect. (Standard all black bulls are also ideal for use with a red dot, but I know you're not wild about red dots.).

Another option for using a blade front to avoid losing it in a black bull is to use a colored bull, like an orange or a yellow. This is very effective at short ranges, but it gets hard to see the colored bulls at longer distances.

Those bulls with the light centers are ideal with a scope. That's where I use them. Beats losing a reticle in an all black bull.

Lastly, I and other iron sight shooters using a six o'clock, sometimes leave just a sliver of daylight between the top of the blade and the bull to avoid losing the blade in the bull. Takes some practice to do it, consistently, as far as that sliver of daylight, but it works.

Hint: When using a six o'clock, start with the blade directly below the bull with some light showing, then slowly and carefully bring up the blade to where you want it, visually "tickling" the bull. Do this religiously the same way for every shot. I find that the consistency of having a set routine for lining up the sights does translate into better groups.

Thanks Joanie, I’ll try that. To complicate things I’m not fond of a flat rear sight like what is on the CZ tangent. I’m going to concentrate on CZs for the summer, both scoped and iron sights.

[BrokenolMarine]

NCG nailed it, floating the bull, giving yourself a lollipop sight picture works to defeat losing the blade in the target. You can also change to 8" paper plates from the dollar store and shoot those. Just staple them to the cardboard and shoot for the center. Cheap targets. I used them for teaching.

[Sir Henry]

NCG nailed it, floating the bull, giving yourself a lollipop sight picture works to defeat losing the blade in the target. You can also change to 8" paper plates from the dollar store and shoot those. Just staple them to the cardboard and shoot for the center. Cheap targets. I used them for teaching.

I like cheap!

[BrokenolMarine]

With the 8” white “bull” you won’t lose the post. If you need an aiming point black marker

[Sir Henry]

So do I shoot the plates after I’ve eaten on them or shoot first and then eat? Just asking for a friend.

[Ernie]

I find them less messy if you eat on them first. And as a bonus, depending on what you are eating, they tend to pick up some color.

[RanchRoper]

Shoot while you are eating.

[zara_puppy]

Got a PC and a printer? You can easily create what you want in Microsoft Word. Also, the www has many, many free targets available for the printing. I have a couple thousand targets from “Official Slow Fire” to dart boards for friendly competition. In a pinch I use a roll of painters tape, a sharpie and crayons on a poster board. The inside of a roll of painters tape is 3”. The outside is as big as the amount of tape left on the roll. A light green or pink center is easy to see.

[Ernie]

Zara_puppy, don't know why I never thought about printing targets. Found several sites available for free downloads. Printed a couple off of gunnewsdaily.com and they are very clear.

[zara_puppy]

Zara_puppy, don't know why I never thought about printing targets. Found several sites available for free downloads. Printed a couple off of gunnewsdaily.com and they are very clear.

As much as I shoot it saves some money. Just punching holes in paper - might as well do it on the cheap. A piece of poster board and the painters tape to cover previous holes and a marker and I can use the same target for a whole session - or a couple short sessions. Any printed target using iron sights at 100 yards gets a poster board backing. No way I hit an 8 1/2 X 11 piece of paper with every shot using irons. That’s RanchRoper territory - and I’m not even close.

[zara_puppy]

Hey Ernie- southwest Lower Michigan? Bell’s - Founders - New Holland, etc. Want a good brew? The folks in Southwest Michigan know how to do it right (sorry about the thread highjack).