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scope and mounts

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bandit1250
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scope and mounts

Post by bandit1250 » Sun May 15, 2016 9:11 am

The 25/06 I am working on for my friend had a 3-9 Tasco World Class (Japan made) scope on it with the old Weaver flip over mounts so you could use the open sights. These were very popular in the Pa. deer woods years ago before some body came up with the goofy idea to look under the scope with the see thru mounts. I saw many fore head gashes come from those see through mounts plus they made the scope so high it made the rifle uncomfortable to sight through the scope. My friend told me take the scope and mounts off he didn't want them and for me to keep them. The scope is clear as a new one and no ring marks or any scratched lens. I may set the parallax for 50-60yds. and put it on a CZ 22. I had a lot of these Tasco's from this time period and never had to ever return one and even had some of them on hard kickers like my 375 H&H Magnum. Some one will want these mounts for a woods deer rifle that has open sights still on it. I don't use open sights on mine so I really don't need them. Here is the set up that was on his rifle.
Image

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Sir Henry
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by Sir Henry » Sun May 15, 2016 3:22 pm

I always try to mount a scope as low as possible. So this Tasco has an AO?
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ditto1958
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by ditto1958 » Sun May 15, 2016 7:27 pm

That looks like a better way to do it.

Still... on older Marlin 336 rifles, from the 70's and 80's, those see-thru mounts are the "style." No, they're not optimal, but sometimes a guy just has to be cool. :)

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Cofisher
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by Cofisher » Sun May 15, 2016 7:33 pm

I am liking the flip over to access the Skinner peep sight. Hmmm...
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RetiredSeabee
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by RetiredSeabee » Sun May 15, 2016 8:28 pm

That is a set of mounts I haven't seen before. Thanks again for sharing the unique and cool stuff that finds it's way to you.
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bandit1250
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by bandit1250 » Sun May 15, 2016 10:53 pm

Sir Henry wrote:I always try to mount a scope as low as possible. So this Tasco has an AO?
The Tasco scope has no AO. If my strap wrench will loosen the lock ring on the objective end I can adjust the parallax myself. I have done quite a few Leupold center fire non AO scopes for rim fire application. Never had a single problem and can reset them for center fire distance if I need them moved back to a center fire rifle.

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Sir Henry
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by Sir Henry » Mon May 16, 2016 12:16 am

bandit1250 wrote:
Sir Henry wrote:I always try to mount a scope as low as possible. So this Tasco has an AO?
The Tasco scope has no AO. If my strap wrench will loosen the lock ring on the objective end I can adjust the parallax myself. I have done quite a few Leupold center fire non AO scopes for rim fire application. Never had a single problem and can reset them for center fire distance if I need them moved back to a center fire rifle.
Interesting. Have you even done that to Weavers? Especially vintage ones.
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bandit1250
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by bandit1250 » Mon May 16, 2016 10:35 am

Sir Henry wrote:
bandit1250 wrote:
Sir Henry wrote:I always try to mount a scope as low as possible. So this Tasco has an AO?
The Tasco scope has no AO. If my strap wrench will loosen the lock ring on the objective end I can adjust the parallax myself. I have done quite a few Leupold center fire non AO scopes for rim fire application. Never had a single problem and can reset them for center fire distance if I need them moved back to a center fire rifle.
Interesting. Have you even done that to Weavers? Especially vintage ones.
Sir Henry, I haven't done any old Weavers as they have a very narrow ring on the front and the strap wrench is on the tube and won't just hold the ring. Most scopes with the wider ring out front I can get off. Some scopes are not easily done and I leave the ones alone that don't have the two little notches if looking in the front. The ones with the notches are easy to do. Just sand bag the scope so it is held steady and look the distance you want to set it for and reach out and turn the ring with the notches until you can move your head around with out movement in the reticle. If you move it the wrong way it will show up as being worse with parallax. When you get it adjusted look where the notches are and start the lock ring back on the reach in the front and hold it from moving while tightening the lock ring back down. You can always set it back later if going back to a center fire or a rifle you are shooting farther than your rim fire. 60yds. is usually where the factory sets them for rim fire scopes. I probably have a dozen Leupold 4X and 2-7X set for 22 distance. Never had a issue with any of them after being adjusted.

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Sir Henry
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by Sir Henry » Mon May 16, 2016 10:47 am

Thanks. On some of the vintage Weavers that front ring is loose which allowed me to clean the lens. Do you ever have a problem with moisture after working on them because the gas escaped? I never have.
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bandit1250
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Re: scope and mounts

Post by bandit1250 » Mon May 16, 2016 11:04 am

Never had a problem with any yet. The seal is not at that ring. It is behind that ring as it is just a lock ring. If you send a Leupold back they set your parallax for your desired yardage and charge you nothing. If they lost the gas and needed recharged or resealed I am sure it wouldn't be free. I have hunted in some nasty weather I shouldn't have been in small game season with ones I have set and never had one fog yet. I believe there is info on the internet now about setting your own. Just don't screw the end off after removing the lock ring. It takes very little moving the threaded end to get it set where you want it.

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