Spring has sprung. Get out and shoot your Henry
fore stock
fore stock
The fore stock on my H001L moves slightly back and forth, any way to tighten it up. the screw is as tight as it will go. I do not want to ship it back to Henry for just that.
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- CT_Shooter
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Re: fore stock
My H001 did that, too; so I loosened the barrel band screw, pulled the fore stock back as close to the receiver as it would move, then re-tightened the screw. All better.
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H006M Big Boy Brass .357 - H001 Classic .22LR - Uberti / Taylors & Co. SmokeWagon .357 5.5" - Uberti / Taylors & Co. RanchHand .22LR 5.5"
Re: fore stock
Ditto!CT_Shooter wrote:My H001 did that, too; so I loosened the barrel band screw, pulled the fore stock back as close to the receiver as it would move, then re-tightened the screw. All better.
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RE: Forstock and other issues...
I have tightened the barrel band screw as tight as it will go. When I'm at the range, and I have the fore-end on top of the Caldwell rest, the back and forth motion of bringing the rifle closer to elevate the barrel results in the gap between the fore-end and the receiver opening again. I ALWAYS have to re-tighten the barrel band screw when I get home.
I'm also noticing, that my Uncle Mikes Hammer Extension is loosening after about 30 rounds. I know there was lock-tite on it when it was installed, and it didn't budge. But when I dis-assembled the rifle to clean it over the winter, I had to remove the hammer extension to get the receiver cover off.
I'm now thinking of 2 things,
1) Have a professional move the scope further back in the scope rings so the hammer clears the ocular bell, and remove the hammer extension entirely (although it will change the eye relief - closer)
2) Ask my gunsmith to drill and tap the right side of my hammer to create a female thread, and use a longer version of the hex screw provided with the Uncle Mike's Extension, so the screw doesn't just butt up against the side of the hammer, but instead is ALSO threaded into the hammer?
QUESTION: How much further back can this scope be in the rings, so I can get my thumb on top of the hammer without getting my thumb wedged in between the eyepiece and the hammer?
If I could get that scope BACK about 3/4 of an inch, there would be more than enough room for my thumb to clear that eyepiece. I mean, how much play do you have with bringing it back closer to your eye?
SEE:
Hammer Clearance 1: https://s14.postimg.cc/7z2z3ubr5/Hammer_Clearnce_1.jpg
Hammer Clearance 2: https://s14.postimg.cc/frtmvtpg1/Hammer_Clearance_2.jpg
I'm also noticing, that my Uncle Mikes Hammer Extension is loosening after about 30 rounds. I know there was lock-tite on it when it was installed, and it didn't budge. But when I dis-assembled the rifle to clean it over the winter, I had to remove the hammer extension to get the receiver cover off.
I'm now thinking of 2 things,
1) Have a professional move the scope further back in the scope rings so the hammer clears the ocular bell, and remove the hammer extension entirely (although it will change the eye relief - closer)
2) Ask my gunsmith to drill and tap the right side of my hammer to create a female thread, and use a longer version of the hex screw provided with the Uncle Mike's Extension, so the screw doesn't just butt up against the side of the hammer, but instead is ALSO threaded into the hammer?
QUESTION: How much further back can this scope be in the rings, so I can get my thumb on top of the hammer without getting my thumb wedged in between the eyepiece and the hammer?
If I could get that scope BACK about 3/4 of an inch, there would be more than enough room for my thumb to clear that eyepiece. I mean, how much play do you have with bringing it back closer to your eye?
SEE:
Hammer Clearance 1: https://s14.postimg.cc/7z2z3ubr5/Hammer_Clearnce_1.jpg
Hammer Clearance 2: https://s14.postimg.cc/frtmvtpg1/Hammer_Clearance_2.jpg
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Re: fore stock
Well you wouldn't normally move the scope to facilitate removing the hammer extension. I have that UM hammer extender (though I'm not using it presently) and I can tell you it has a REALLY small hex (allen) screw that you really have to tighten. A lot of us use that product with no problem.
If you haven't already, I think a call to Henry is in order. There maybe some wood compressed on the fore stock causing the looseness, but they will know............
If you haven't already, I think a call to Henry is in order. There maybe some wood compressed on the fore stock causing the looseness, but they will know............
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Re: fore stock
Came back from the range today, and as usual, the barrel band screw had backed off. I slid the fore-end stock back again as far as it would go - it always gaps in front of the receiver, and when I slide it back, it goes "CLICK".
But today as I re-tightened the screw on the barrel band, it started to spin, like the threads are stripped, either on the screw itself, or inside the other threaded hole. What a PITA.
I love the rifle, but I wish Henry had designed this part to be more robust. I feel like it needs a larger screw, and or a different material, as well as the barrel band material. I don't think it's "gun steel" but an alloy. It feels like that.
The little recess in the front of the receiver, that accepts the rear portion of the fore-end isn't deep enough, or needs it's own fastener. You'd think it would be better to couple something like the fore-end with 2 bands, with 2 screws for each band.
I'm starting to think that part of the accuracy issues I'm having with the H001M, are attributed to movement of the fore-end. I sent Allison at Henry an e-mail this evening, asking if they could send me another barrel band, and screw.
I just hope it can be resolved.
But today as I re-tightened the screw on the barrel band, it started to spin, like the threads are stripped, either on the screw itself, or inside the other threaded hole. What a PITA.
I love the rifle, but I wish Henry had designed this part to be more robust. I feel like it needs a larger screw, and or a different material, as well as the barrel band material. I don't think it's "gun steel" but an alloy. It feels like that.
The little recess in the front of the receiver, that accepts the rear portion of the fore-end isn't deep enough, or needs it's own fastener. You'd think it would be better to couple something like the fore-end with 2 bands, with 2 screws for each band.
I'm starting to think that part of the accuracy issues I'm having with the H001M, are attributed to movement of the fore-end. I sent Allison at Henry an e-mail this evening, asking if they could send me another barrel band, and screw.
I just hope it can be resolved.
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Re: fore stock
Well you wouldn't normally move the scope to facilitate removing the hammer extension. I have that UM hammer extender (though I'm not using it presently) and I can tell you it has a REALLY small hex (allen) screw that you really have to tighten.
I agree with this however if moving the scope to help reach the hammer to eliminate the extension doesn't change your eye relief then give it a try. I didn't understand your saying ' Have a professional move the scope further back in the scope rings' - it doesn't take a 'pro' for this - just loosen the scope ring screws and slide the scope back and see if you can get the clearance and maintain proper eye relief. With regard to the extensions I have never have one loosen up on any hammers I have had them on. I have a couple older ones that fit my hammers fairly snugly and don't require much tightening of the screw to hold them.
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Re: fore stock
Would that actually be front to rear possibly?The fore stock on my H001L moves slightly back and forth
You might try taking it off and slathering the inside of it with a heavy coat of some kind of wood oil, put it in a plastic bag and let it soak in for a few days to try to expand the wood.. Having heard this before I suspect some of the stocks are 'shrinking' due to probably not being completely dry when cut and fitted to the rifles by Henry. Heck mine will move slightly on my BBB but a slight snugging of the band screw tightens it right up.
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