fore stock

[North Country Gal]

Here's my experience with these issues, not on Henry's, but other lever guns. Hope it helps. Take it for what its worth.

I've always gotten better and more consistent accuracy off a rest with my lever guns by resting the action on the bag, not the forearm, same as with my Contender Carbines or other guns with two piece stocks. I find that guns with two piece stocks can be forearm sensitive when resting the gun on the forearm. Resting the gun on the action takes the forearm out of the equation, not just for accuracy, but also the problem you're having with the barrel band.

Also, it's been my experience that over-tightening a forearm band can lead to a decrease in accuracy. The bands are not designed to be snugged down gorilla tight, anyway. That can lead to cracked stocks and stripped threads. The function of the band is simply to keep the forearm from sliding forward. Then, too, a little play in the forearm is no big deal on a barrel band forearm. Stocks dry out as hey age and shrink a bit. If it bothers you, as above, just do a little shim work on the rear end where the forearm nestles into the receiver.

As to the hammer extensions, I use them a lot on my Contenders and have for years. Occasionally one works loose. No big deal. Just remove the screw, add some Loc-tite, and re-install. (I always take the allen wrench with me to the range in case a hammer extension works loose.) The only caveat is to use aluminum hammer extensions to keep the weight down. Do not use steel. Too much weight can put too much stress on the hammer and slow down lock time. Above all, DO NOT mess with scope eye relief. That is far, far more important in terms of shooting comfort and accuracy. Just not worth messing with for the sake of a loose hammer extension.

[henry22]

Mistered, I ended up taking the hammer extender off, it's an UM too. I had my gunsmith re-mount my scope, and he moved it back almost an inch, maybe a bit less. I don't notice any difference in the eye relief, but now I can reach the hammer easily without squashing my thumb under the eye piece. It works.

About the fore-end, yes mine always gaps when I'm at the range, after a 100 rounds or so. I try to be careful not to drag the fore-end over the front rest, but I always end up dragging it backwards, forwards, to gain height or lower my POA. It probably causes the fore-end to slide like that. I just think there's a better way to fasten something like that.

I get the price point of the rifle, and the reason behind the cost saving features, aluminum receiver cover etc. But IMHO, there should be absolutely no play at all in those parts, that can throw a shot off for sure.

When the barrel band screw stripped yesterday, I felt like the fore-end and barrel band was more of an ornamental fixture, rather than part of a rugged, rootin-tootin' shootin rifle. I find the fore-end WAY too narrow and small. It feels like a youth rifle sometimes, but that smooth action keeps me coming back. I wish Henry would make the fore-end as chunky as the Browning BL-22 models, or even slightly beefier and wider.

I'm actually entertaining selling this thing. It's too bad, I love the action, smoothness of it, but I can't stand this. The H001, H001M series rifles should be slightly scaled down versions of the big boy all steel models. — I'd buy it.

I wonder how much "more" it would cost Henry to produce the H001M as an all steel model, with a better coupling system for the fore-end and barrel band? And I wonder how I'm going to find a permanent solution to this problem.

I don't see there being one. You'd have to change the fore-end itself, and use a completely cured piece of kiln dried black walnut. I know what this rifle needs: a steel block at each end of the magazine tube, with steel threaded inserts on the bottom of the fore-end, that steel machine screws thread into BOTH the fore-end's steel inserts, and the steel square blocks.

The barrel bands would be simply cosmetic, and float just above the barrel, imposing no contact or pressure whatsoever onto the barrel.

[henry22]

I had my gunsmith move my scope back a bit, and the accuracy was bang on the other day at the range, at 100 yards, then the accuracy went out the window, like it always does. I'm really hoping it's the scope, or the mounting rings. The guys at the range who watch me shoot a group, then see what I'm talking about first hand are all thinking it's the scope itself. I hope so.

I've tried resting on the receiver itself, and it works, but only if you're aiming at something at that height. I often need to slide the gun backwards on the wide Caldwell front Dead-rest, to gain or decrease aim height.

This is what I had installed on the CZ:https://us.hawkeoptics.com/match-mount- ... edium.html and IF I keep the Henry, I'm thinking this is what I should install for the scope. I'm selling the Vortex Diamondback, because I found a Leupold VX1 on sale for 244.99 CDN - exceptional deal, and the glass is so much clearer.

Regarding the fore-end and barrel band...
I'm so bummed, because I really love this Henry, I just wish it was built like a tank. Should I e-mail Anthony Imperato directly, or just deal with customer service.

I agree too that maybe the wood on the fore-end has become somewhat compressed, and therefore the barrel band screw always seems loose. I need a permanent fix, whatever it is, or as much as I love this rifle, I'll sell it, and buy a used Marlin XT in 22 mag at my range.

NCG, is this barrel band issue the same with all vendors? The Winchester 9422? The BL-22?

[jstanfield103]

I know I am late on this thread. My fore stock was also moving back and forth on my Goldenboy. Called Henry they sent a replacement out and that one is very tight, no movement at all.