Henry Big Boy Steel forend assembly?

[henry22]

I've been looking at the Henry Big Boy Steel series on the Henry site. If you own one, you're familiar with the forend, how it's attached to the rifle, and the fact that is has no barrel bands.

SEE:
https://cdn0.thetruthaboutguns.com/wp-c ... G_3694.jpg

https://www.henryusa.com/rifles/henry-big-boy-steel/

How is forend coupled to the rifle?

And what does the set screw at the front forend's lower barrel band thread into to keep the forend in place?

Thanks.

[Mistered]

and the fact that is has no barrel bands.

Uh, yes it does - the forward barrel band as shown in your pictures. The screw threads into the opposing side of the band and slightly compresses it on the fore stock and that is what secures it.

[henry22]

Sorry Mistered, I didn't clarify. What I meant to say was, it has no barrel band(s) that loop OVER the barrel itself. I thought maybe it was coupled a bit differently than say an H001M.

I wish Henry would release an all steel H001M, and varmint express .17 HMR, and find a way to weld a steel block on the underside of the magazine tube. The block would sit in a shallow square notch inside the forend itself, and the barrel band would have a screw on each side that threads through the wood and into the block - so nothing can move. And the band wouldn't compress the wood at all, the drilled and tapped holes in the block would only be deep enough to accommodate the screw's length - no more over tightening.

Picture this in steel, set into the bottom or channel of the forend, and the mag tube would sit in the block's cylinder shaped channel, or that block in steel would be welded or machined as part of the magazine tube itself.
https://s33.postimg.cc/rfdgxvbdb/Re-enf ... blocks.jpg I'm no engineer, but I know this could be done.

It's just a nit picky thing I'm nuts for. I LOVE my Henry, I just wish the forend had more mass and width, and be coupled with a better design to the mag tube. My forend always gaps. When I'm at the range, I'm always having to grip the forend, and tug it backwards towards the receiver to snug it back, no matter how tight the barrel band is around the forend. I just know there's a better way to couple these parts together.

[PT7]

Just looked over my new BBS H006MR w/o the barrel band. It is unlike the first Big Boy .357 Magnum H006M I bought in 2013, which did have a brass barrel band.

Your Q: How is forend coupled to the rifle?
When I look at the top of the barrel where it meets the receiver, the forend wood has two "slots" that wedge in at the sides. I had to change out the forend on my older BB, but I think I recall that these wood slots actually were a solid wood piece that curved and ran completely underneath the barrel. This wood kept the forend in place at this point. I'd think this new BB might have the same forend design.

Your Q: And what does the set screw at the front forend's lower barrel band thread into to keep the forend in place?
I've not taken the forend assembly apart on this rifle....no need to at this time. I think this screw keeps the forend in place (my thinking, I may be incorrect) just by the correct pressure when tightened. I can't see for sure without disassembling it, but I don't believe it threads into anything....just sits in between the barrel and magazine tube. A key point for holding the forend in place is the dovetail near the muzzle, which solidly holds the magazine tube in place. If the forend is held well by that screw, it won't move.

Wow, re-reading that, I hope it makes some sense. But like I said, the only way I'd know for sure is to take it apart. Looks like it would be easy to do. If you do that, let us know what you find.

And you can always contact a Henry rep with your questions. They should be able to help.

[Mags]

and the fact that is has no barrel bands.

Uh, yes it does - the forward barrel band as shown in your pictures. The screw threads into the opposing side of the band and slightly compresses it on the fore stock and that is what secures it.

The screw also passes through a notch in the underside of the barrel. In addition to the screw slightly compressing the band on the fore stock, the notch keeps the screw/band and fore stock from slipping forward.

Fore stock shown removed with band slid away toward the muzzle (to the left) in this picture.

notch.JPG

[henry22]

Thanks guys. I've already a submitted a "wish list" on the Henry submission form page, requesting an all steel H001M and Varmint Express in .17 HMR. I requested that Henry release an all steel model in 22 WMR, and .17 HMR, exactly like the big boy steel models, but just slightly scaled down, but not by much.

I love shooting my H001M, and how easy it is to dis-assemble and clean. I just want an all steel model with more heft, more width and mass in the forend, more mass in the receiver. Basically a rifle that will last 100 years, and built like a tank. If they can make a big boy for $1049 CDN, surely they can make a 22 WMR just like it for a bit less, or close to that price. I'd buy one in a heartbeat. Considering the fact that the Uberti Silverboy lever action .22LR is only $799 CDN, and it has an all steel frame and receiver - I'm pretty sure anyway.

—CORRECTION— The Uberti Silverboy's "receiver is alloy with a chrome finish"

[PT7]

Good show and glad to know, Mags. Wasn't certain about a barrel notch, but it makes good sense to have it built this way.

and the fact that is has no barrel bands.

The screw also passes through a notch in the underside of the barrel. In addition to the screw slightly compressing the band on the fore stock, the notch keeps the screw/band and fore stock from slipping forward.

Fore stock shown removed with band slid away toward the muzzle (to the left) in this picture.
notch.JPG

[Ojaileveraction]

The End Cap or Barrel Band debate. Some say an end cap will help accuracy, others say there is no difference.
End Caps come loose sometimes also.

[henry22]

They'd have to re-design the mag tube, with those blocks integrated into the bottom of the mag tube itself. My Henry's forend slides forward a bit sometimes, creating a tiny gap in between the rear of the forend where it slips into the receiver, and I'm always sliding it backwards towards the receiver to snug it up again.

It shouldn't move, at all. To me, IMHO, it should be designed and coupled a lot like how the stock is routed to accommodate the tang with the screw. that kind of idea. Wood coupled to steel with steel screws, with threaded steel inserts would be better, but I don't work for Henry.

[Pa. Woodsman]

You guys got me totally confused. Don't worry about it...