Got back out in the shop for a couple days work. Once the doors had been stained, it was time to peel off the tape and carefully measure each door, write down the measurements and cut the wire to insert into the dadoes. Using band clamps, I test fitted each wired front and trimmed as needed for a tight fit, but one that still allowed a little movement. Once I was sure there was a match up, the glue was applied, the band clamps were tightened and then I checked the assembly was square and set it aside to dry. This step was repeated for all three door assemblies.
- 50 fitted the wire.jpg (178.05 KiB) Viewed 3849 times
Once the doors had set up the band clamps were removed and any glue squeeze out was carefully pared away with the one inch chisel. Razor sharp, so extreme care was needed to only peel away the glue and not cut the assembly. The oil finish that was applied, allowed the glue to peel off with a careful application of the sharp chisel.
- 51 out of the band clamps.jpg (163.81 KiB) Viewed 3849 times
Next, I needed some plugs to close up the open ends of the dadoes used for the screens. There are a couple ways to cut dadoes. Stopped dadoes would not show, but can be risky cut on a table saw and I didn't want to take the risk. I could have cut the thru dadoes and then cut the ends of the frames at a forty five degree angle, which would have hidden the dadoes as well. I didn't want to chance the forty five with the weight that would be applied. This method would work fine since the plugs would be mostly hidden INSIDE the cabinet and only revealed on the edge of the doors when they are tilted open to grab a "tater," and they will nearly match perfectly.
- 52 cutting plugs.jpg (159 KiB) Viewed 3849 times
Once the plugs are cut, I pound the plug with a rawhide mallet until it's thin enough to match the gap, then trim the width to nearly the right size, shave a bit of a wedge shape, and put glue in the channel. I then tap the plug into the channel and the glue causes the plug to swell back up to fill the gap tightly. Once all the gaps have been plugged, I set the doors aside for a half hour or so until the glue dries. Then I come back and sand the area flush, which also sands away the last remnants of the glue. Then wipe on the Watco Oil, Bam... match.
- 53 plugging the dadoes.jpg (178.92 KiB) Viewed 3849 times
Next up, assembling the sides. First I mock up the side using cardboard and play with opening the door, trying to find a correct angle. Once I have it, I cut out a cardboard template and then cut the sides on the bandsaw.
- 54 trial and error template.jpg (131.16 KiB) Viewed 3849 times
The bottoms and the sides are cut, matching the bottoms to the exact width of each door. The sides are all cut the same.
- 55 bases and sides.jpg (174.98 KiB) Viewed 3849 times
I carefully assemble the bin bodies, using the bench to hold everything in place as I glue and screw the assembly together. Care must be taken for alignment. measurements are marked out on the base, and the assembly requires multistep drilling. The first hole is a small drill bit to mark thru for reference. The second is a countersink on the underside drilled with a 3/8 forstner bit. A third hole is drilled thru the base at that point the same size as the shank of the screw. After the glue is applied to the sides, and everything clampled in place, a pilot hole is drilled thru the plywood, just under the size of the threads, to prevent splitting, and the threads are dipped in glue.
- 56 assembling the bin body.jpg (138.06 KiB) Viewed 3849 times
Left to dry overnight, I come out in the morning and work on attaching the doors. The multi-step drilling process is used again, this time the countersink is drilled on the face of the door with 1/4 inch forstner bit. This will be plugged and stained once the process is completed.
- 57 doors attached.jpg (156.3 KiB) Viewed 3849 times
Note in the door pics that the maple plugs, cut with a 1/4" plug cutter have been installed, and are drying. Once they have dried they will be shaved flush with a chisel, lightly sanded with 220 grit if needed and the watco oil applied, which should make them nearly invisible. The bins will need only the screen applied across the rear and the pull knobs installed. They will be ready to be hinged in place when the time comes.