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Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by Henry88 » Sat Mar 30, 2019 1:59 pm

North Country Gal wrote: Image
NCG, when you say "REST", could you tell us a little more. I'm thinking sandbags, but how many (front/rear or only front), and where do you typically place it/them (with relation to the stock)?


I think we all would appreciate any tidbits on the thought process, etc. when you shoot from a rest.
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by dddrees » Sat Mar 30, 2019 5:02 pm

North Country Gal wrote:I do understand, dddrees. My recommendation, then, would be a CZ for a bolt gun. Really are a better value and the 452/455 triggers are a breeze to mod, really as simple as it gets. The only CZs I haven't owned, yet, are the new 457s, but, honestly, I love our 425s, 453s, and 455s so much, I'm in no hurry to buy one.

Right now for me it's between CZ, Anschutz, and an outside chance on a Winchester 52. Not sure if there are any other decent ones out there I should be considering but these are the ones I am currently looking at.I ruled out a Cooper because it simply would be too much and I think I want to go more old school so I don't think a Volquartsen would appeal to me.
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by North Country Gal » Sat Mar 30, 2019 5:59 pm

I'm old school on the rests. I use sandbags, front and rear. On the front, I usually rest the gun just forward of the trigger guard to minimize contact with the forearm, since the forearm is a sensitive pressure point on many gun designs. On the rear, I use the also traditional method of squeezing the bag with my left hand to raise or lower the gun slightly. I take my time after every shot to get this right, meaning that the crosshairs or sights are resting naturally on target before firing the gun. I will also pull on the trigger (with the gun unloaded) during my initial setup to make sure the gun is coming directly back when pressure is applied to the trigger, crosshairs/sights basically still on target, rather than moving the sights off target.

I don't use sleds or other static rests because they don't allow me to fine tune how I rest a gun the way bags do. It's been my experience that every gun is an individual and part of getting to know that gun is learning how it best likes to be held or rested. A "one rest fits all" or a "one hold works for all" does not work for me. Not criticizing sleds and such, but I much prefer the use of traditional bags. Each to their own.

I sometimes get a little creative when I find a gun that needs something different, as seen here with a vintage Remington 550-1 22 LR. Not much weight out there at the muzzle, so was getting too much bounce off the bag for my liking. Used my left hand to ever so gently stabilize that forearm. Note that I also placed a bag under my forearm to stabilize it. :) It worked, though, tightened up my groups.
Image

Guess my approach to resting a gun might be best described as the gun-whisperer approach. I let the gun tell me what it likes. Just have to do my part and let it talk to me. :)
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by Henry88 » Sat Mar 30, 2019 6:24 pm

Thank you so much NCG for that. Somehow, from following your posts, it was along the lines I thought you would say. The reason I asked is I found my Henry Classic H001 to be very hold sensitive, maybe having something to do with the forestock?

So, recently (since airguns) I began to shoot everything artillery style, with my left hand back in front of the magazine. On my pellet gun I went as far to demark the place I hold with a piece of tape. :?

But now I am finding that my .22s can be just as finicky as an airgun (in fact maybe more :) )

So I guess if you're a hunter, try to emulate how you hold the gun in the field, and setup your bags/etc. accordingly, to avoid that, "I can't believe I missed :D .
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North Country Gal
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by North Country Gal » Sat Mar 30, 2019 7:45 pm

Definitely something to that light hold thing. It's one thing shooting air guns will teach you.
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by RanchRoper » Sat Mar 30, 2019 8:33 pm

Expert shooting as usual. Nice to see your range reports again. I always learn stuff.
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by Mags » Sat Mar 30, 2019 9:53 pm

.
Please explain the bit about the pressure sensitive point. Why is that?
North Country Gal wrote:... I usually rest the gun just forward of the trigger guard to minimize contact with the forearm, since the forearm is a sensitive pressure point on many gun designs.
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by Henry88 » Sun Mar 31, 2019 4:10 am

I think it would be great if some of the better off hand shooters like NCG and RR showed us how they hold their rifle.

Just sayin :D
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by dddrees » Sun Mar 31, 2019 10:13 am

NCG, great thread and very informative, thanks for sharing.
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Re: Browning (Miroku) T Bolt Sporter 22 LR

Post by North Country Gal » Sun Mar 31, 2019 12:10 pm

Mags wrote:.
Please explain the bit about the pressure sensitive point. Why is that?
North Country Gal wrote:... I usually rest the gun just forward of the trigger guard to minimize contact with the forearm, since the forearm is a sensitive pressure point on many gun designs.
Anything that attaches to a barrel will affect barrel harmonics - how the barrel vibrates during the shot. That, in turn, can have a pronounced effect on how consistently the barrel vibrates, shot after shot. That consistency is what makes for accuracy. Notice how bench rest rifle barrels tend to be very thick and relatively short. This makes for very consistent barrel harmonics.

Anything that touches the barrel, then, will have an effect on barrel harmonics. It's why there are numerous ways a rifle action and barrel are bedded in a stock. Free floated barrels in bolt action rifle stocks where the barrel doesn't touch the forearm is one method, but it is certainly not the only method. In fact, some bedding designs deliberately have the stock touching the barrel at a given point and removing it, via a do-it-yourself free floating job, can destroy accuracy.

Rifle designs where parts are directly attached to the barrel tend to be the most sensitive to a rest because the upward pressure exerted by the rest is directly transferred to the barrel through these parts. A good example is my Contender and Encore rifles/pistols where the forearms are screwed directly onto the barrel. Even have to be careful when changing barrels to torque those forearm screws the same. Too tight or too loose can affect accuracy. That's why I rest my Contender and Encores well back towards the receiver when shooting from a rest.

Lever guns are another gun design that can be touchy about forearm pressure, especially forearms that use a barrel band. More than one shooter has discovered that over tightening a barrel band can wreck accuracy. Rifle style lever gun forearms with a cap are generally a better design, but, remember, there's a lot of stuff dangling underneath a lever gun barrel like a tubular magazine and so forth. Even a loose tubular magazine bouncing around during a shot can affect accuracy.

In the end, it's always, always, always consistency that counts if you're after accuracy. Pretty tough to get that consistency if you keep changing any of these pressure points on the gun from one shot to the next. If you are going to rest that lever gun way out on the forearm, you must be careful to place it in exactly the same place for every shot. Resting the gun under the action greatly reduces this variable, though, because it's a less sensitive pressure point than that forearm.

Whew! Hope I haven't lost anyone with all this stuff, but I've really only touched the tip of this vary large iceberg. Go to a benchrest competition, sometime, where these folks actually build their own rifles if you want to see how complicated and detailed these discussions can get.
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