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Paste Wax

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RanchRoper
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by RanchRoper » Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:22 pm

I think somebody on the forum said one time that the old time guys dunked and soaked there rifles in oil to help weatherproof them. Wood and all. Yikes!
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Conax
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by Conax » Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:30 pm

No big thing, we just never did it in my family, never heard of it til recently.
My dad once dropped his Browning .22 semi-auto (prized by him) in a river. We brought it home and gave it a good cleaning, no harm done. Oil naturally repels water. Once a gun has been cleaned a hundred times and wiped down inside and out, a brief exposure to the weather won't hurt it. If it gets rainsoaked you just wipe it dry and clean it as soon as possible, it'll be fine.
Traditionally gun stocks were oil finished. Linseed oil (I think) can be rubbed into the wood for a nice, natural, durable finish. Repels water, can be renewed with a little more oil.
I might as well tout my preferred oil, BreakFree CLP. It supposedly rust proofs your metal over time and many uses. I know it keeps it very slick and smooth in operation, and there ain't no speck of rust on any of mine.
Anyway you waxers go right ahead, for all I know you may have the best protection there is.
I learn something new every day ;)
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Mags
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by Mags » Sat Apr 14, 2018 1:05 am

If you like your brass shiny don't use polishes or waxes that contain ammonia, acids, Iso Alkanes or beeswax. Make sure to lookup the MSDS of the exact product you want to use. Even some product versions of Flinz, Peek, Nevl Dull, etc. can contain these chemicals. So check product version ingredients carefully.

Renaissance Wax, already mentioned, is best for guns with shiny brass and wood as it can be used on both surfaces.
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by ESquared » Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:31 am

I may have missed it, but I'm interested in the answer this this question regarding Renaissance Wax:

"Does it leave a residue in the checkering?"
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by Mags » Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:03 pm

My Henry doesn't have checkering, but my Mossberg does. I haven't noticed any build up on it. I use a 100% cotton white terry cloth wash rag for the wipe down the checkering while the wax is still semi liquid (before it could dry to a haze). The checkering on the Mossberg is a very fine pattern and not so deep that the terry cloth can't wipe through it.

With really deep checking, it might be more difficult for the wipe down cloth to get at the wax in the bottom of the crevices. For that might need to use a soft tooth brush.

Checkering aside, I have observed that the Renaissance Wax liquefies and self absorbs the previous wax coating and then any excess wax from the melding comes off in the wipe down cloth.
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by Shakey Jake » Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:38 pm

Love Renaissance Wax! I use it all the time on my guitars, clarinets, and other woodwinds I repair. It's not too bad on firearms either.
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by Mags » Wed Jun 27, 2018 6:09 pm

It does look great on firearms, but I don't use it on blued metal parts. Ok if you all want to, nothing wrong with doing it, I just think blued metal parts look better after an oil wipe.

Reading up on the history, Renaissance Wax gets used on lot of stuff found in museums. Parchments, leather, armor, brass, wood, tapestry, muskets, chests, and so forth.
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by PT7 » Wed Jun 27, 2018 7:40 pm

First time I used Renaissance Wax on the BBB wood checkering, I let it get too dry. It was a bit of a challenge to clean it out of those tiny grooves. After that, I simply avoided the checkering. I like the idea of using a soft tooth brush...bet that will work well.
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by Carver » Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:12 pm

I have found that when using wax on my wood carving, I use a hair dryer to melt the wax and get a really thin coating after it’s dry buff it with a cloth or soft brush. This would keep the wax from building up in the checkered parts.
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Re: Paste Wax

Post by Mags » Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:29 pm

Excellent idea.
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