Wood boards should be stored on edge anyway, not left flat on a countertop, to equalize moisture and prevent warping, etc. I made a simple rack for us for that reason, but you can use most anything to support them on edge to save counter space also.markiver54 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 16, 2020 6:54 pm
Very nice Gunny. Will keep that in mind. Great info, however the kitchen is not very large and she's a real stickler about storage. Beautiful boards though!
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Razor Sharp
Re: Razor Sharp
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- JEBar
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Re: Razor Sharp
I didn't know that .. .. info appreciated .... as it turned out, my wife already knew ..
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- markiver54
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Re: Razor Sharp
Links are appreciated Dave!dave77 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 17, 2020 12:52 amHere's some sharpening tips links sent to me from Zelle when I bought a couple of high quality knifes from them. Most are about sharpening kitchen knifes.
https://youtu.be/lVCM5BfeA8c
Shun Training Video – very good overview of knife construction and maintenance
https://youtu.be/MUdrRE7W0b4
Bob Kramer – Honing your Knife
https://youtu.be/kFhMGJYhYpU
Bob Kramer – Knife Sharpening
https://youtu.be/xRPrswhMdAc
Bob Kramer – what is sharp?
How to sharpen a serrated edge
https://youtu.be/9dUb4z7JC8M
Knife Sharpening With Mino Tsuchida
https://youtu.be/SIw5ChGOADE
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- markiver54
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Re: Razor Sharp
Never knew any of that. A lot more scientific than I thought!!GunnyGene wrote: ↑Fri Jul 17, 2020 6:47 amThe reason knives (and other edged tools) dull is partly due to the granular structure of the alloy, and partly due to the edge that results from sharpening. Any abrasive used to remove metal will result in a microscopic irregular sawtooth pattern on the cutting edge. The finer the abrasive, the finer the "teeth" on the edge. The first few times you use the blade these very tiny and thin points will break off leaving what we perceive as a dull edge. Our objective in sharpening (to obtain a sharper and longer lasting edge) is to remove the "sawtooth" to the limits of the granular structure of the steel. This is where stropping comes into play, by controlled breaking and thinning these microscopic teeth to get as close to a continuous "toothless" edge as possible given the limits of the steel itself. Of course the shallower the angle is the thinner and weaker the edge will be, and that means it will bend more easily and eventually break off. So we must compromise between durability of the edge and it's sharpness by adjusting the sharpening angle(s). Again, the quality of the steel (hardness, alloy, etc.) limits what we can expect in both durability of the edge and it's potential degree of "sharpness" we can obtain.
Thanks Gunny, that sure gives me a better perspective of sharpening.
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- JEBar
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Re: Razor Sharp
the angle on a Buck Knife is ground to 13-16 degrees per side .... that spread shows that even Buck can't sharpen to an exact angle .... if you hold the knife against the stone to cut evenly across the edge grind, you will produce an edge with a similar angle .... if you hold the blade at too high of an angle, the resulting edge will lose some slicing ability but will stand up better to chopping ... in short, over time you will develop an angle that works for you
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Re: Razor Sharp
This problem with steel (and other metals) has been known for a long time. There are a couple ways of improving steel blades in particular. One of those is to use laminated blades of different alloys. The ancient Japanese perfected this with so called "samurai" blades (Katana, etc.), which had a much harder alloy sandwiched between layers of a softer alloy. The hard cutting edge was brittle and the outer layers being more malleable added strength to the inner hard but brittle center. Kitchen knifes made in this manner can still be bought, but are usually quite expensive.markiver54 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 17, 2020 9:42 amNever knew any of that. A lot more scientific than I thought!!GunnyGene wrote: ↑Fri Jul 17, 2020 6:47 amThe reason knives (and other edged tools) dull is partly due to the granular structure of the alloy, and partly due to the edge that results from sharpening. Any abrasive used to remove metal will result in a microscopic irregular sawtooth pattern on the cutting edge. The finer the abrasive, the finer the "teeth" on the edge. The first few times you use the blade these very tiny and thin points will break off leaving what we perceive as a dull edge. Our objective in sharpening (to obtain a sharper and longer lasting edge) is to remove the "sawtooth" to the limits of the granular structure of the steel. This is where stropping comes into play, by controlled breaking and thinning these microscopic teeth to get as close to a continuous "toothless" edge as possible given the limits of the steel itself. Of course the shallower the angle is the thinner and weaker the edge will be, and that means it will bend more easily and eventually break off. So we must compromise between durability of the edge and it's sharpness by adjusting the sharpening angle(s). Again, the quality of the steel (hardness, alloy, etc.) limits what we can expect in both durability of the edge and it's potential degree of "sharpness" we can obtain.
Thanks Gunny, that sure gives me a better perspective of sharpening.
Here's a little bed time reading about the various steel alloys used for knives in general:
https://www.knivesandtools.com/en/ct/st ... knives.htm
https://www.bladehq.com/cat--Best-Knife ... uide--3368
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- Rifletom
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Re: Razor Sharp
Dang, this is some very good info for sharpening my knives. And here I thought I was a sharpening guru with my DMT diamond sharpener gizmo! Certainly learned something new. Hot dog!
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- RanchRoper
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Re: Razor Sharp
Good info.
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1860 Henry .45C
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1790-1820 Frontier Flintlock .50
Ohkínohkomit - Shoot skillfully
Re: Razor Sharp
Glad I could help. After what seems like years of sharpening various woodworking hand tools you learn what works and what doesn't. Shoving a #7C handplane thru a couple miles of hardwood teaches you what sharp really is (or isn't).
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Re: Razor Sharp
GG, I have two old Stanley's: a #5 and a # 203. They belonged to my Grandfather and are still in excellent shape. And damn sharp! I used the smaller one(203) on my work bench. Worked great.
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