Crimp dies

[adirondack]

I am reloading for 45-70 and 44 mag rifles. Jacketed bullets with canure. Both sets of dies are Redding. I like them very much but I seat and crimp in separate operations. So i'm tired of readjusting the dies every time I use them. I intend to buy separate crimp dies and wanted to know what brand is thought to be the best? I hear a lot about Lee factor crimp dies. And is that the same as Lee taper crimp dies? I see them both advertised on e-bay for under $20. thanks

[Squatch]

Taper crimp is for ammo like 9mm and 45 acp. Rimless cartridges.
For 44 mag and 45/70 you need a roll crimp to keep the bullets from moving in the brass under recoil while they are in the cylinder or magazine.

I'll let someone more experienced answer the which is best question.

[JEBar]

we've been using the same RCBS 3-Die Carbide Set like the one in this link --http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-3-Die-Carbid ... B000MOGTD6-- to reload 44 Mag shells for our Ruger Redhawk (and now for our Henry) since the mid '60's .... no telling how many tens of thousands of rounds that set has loaded, we have something over 800 rounds on hand right now .... the crimping die does a consistently outstanding job ....

[eldermike]

I hear you on the crimp and seat in separate operations but I found that you can do both if you crimp in the forward part of the canlure. Where most people get this wrong is trying to roll the case when it's only slightly over the recess. But I also am a fan of Lee factory crimp dies and use them on cases such as 30-30 win because they are so weak you can't roll them without risking moving the shoulder. But 44 mag I just roll and seat at the same time.

[adirondack]

Thanks guys, the Redding dies are terrific and roll crimp. I haven't tried seating and crimping in the same process. But I do crimp at the forward of the canure that's where the correct OAL. is. So I will give it a go and see how they come out. if not for $20 bucks I can keep my dies adjusted and buy a separate crimp die.

[Travlin]

I had trouble getting a good crimp on .44 special cases using .44 magnum dies so I bought a Lee factory crimp die for the .44 . It works great for both magnums and specials. The only other factory crimp die I have is for .45 ACP. As stated previously this case headspaces on the rim so it gets a taper crimp. I am very happy with both dies.

[Travlin]

My bad ,edit isn't working. .45 ACP. headspaces on the CASE MOUTH.

[tx gunrunner]

Taper crimp is for ammo like 9mm and 45 acp. Rimless cartridges.
For 44 mag and 45/70 you need a roll crimp to keep the bullets from moving in the brass under recoil while they are in the cylinder or magazine.
.

+1 ..... Each cal all have little different quirks . So no nothing should be put in stone which way is best in reloading ammo . I like to do all my crimps separate because I can feel the crimp and if there is a problem with brass you can pick it up there a lot of times . I try never to say the word reload .... I make custom ammo and it far better then factory ammo plus I can tailor the ammo for type of shooting I'm doing . My cowboy ammo is 750 fps . my defense ammo is 1000 fps and hunting at max fps .

[Owly]

Lee Factory Crimp Die is a big no no if you ever intend to load lead bullets. The carbide ring in the FCD tends to swage down the bullet inside the case, causing it to be undersized. I've had terrible leading problems in my Redhawk until I quit using the Lee FCD. Now I use an RCBS seat/crimp die and perform both operations in one step. All has been right with the world ever since.

[CT_Shooter]

I hear a lot about Lee factory crimp dies.

I only reload .357 magnum jacketed bullets and have always used the Lee Factory Crimp Die that came as part of a four die set. I do know that a .358 lead bullet will be squeezed down to .357 by it, so for those that need or want .358 lead bullets, it shouldn't be used. But, for those of us that just use jacketed bullets, I think it's a great tool, and it doubles as a cylinder gauge.