Issue #3...a seized, sticky, gritty ejector. Even after removing the forend wood, the ejector didn't want to move. A few light taps with a plastic hammer while pulling down on the rod freed it up, but that left it feeling pretty gritty and rough. Oh well, at least it comes apart now...
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The forestock must be removed to change between .22 LR and .22 WMR cylinders, and with years of on and off, loosen/tighten, 'dirt' has built up inside the block and the wood has compressed just enough for the end of the screw to contact the ejector rod. Someone has really tightened it at some time as well...there were some pretty good burrs in the rod from the screw jamming into it.
The solution here was to polish away the burrs on the rod, clean the threads and guide hole in the block with old .17 cal bore brushes and some solvent, then use a cut-down 1/4" neoprene (rubber) fender washer as a shim between the forestock and the block. I have used similar washers as problem-solvers in many applications over the years. This one in particular has a 1/4" I.D., a 2" O.D., and is 1/16" thick.
This is how it looks under the wood...the block slides into a dovetail in the barrel, the ejector glides (like it should) through the block, which also serves as a mounting point for the wood.
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