Older Anschutz vs Newer Savage

[henry22]

Thanks NCG, I should know more about this stuff, I haven't read or watched enough. Here's one that I still have a hard time with.

If I take a shot at that 1" square, and I'm trying to hit dead center, if I'm high and right as I mentioned before, I usually try and hold the POA exactly where I was aiming, and then move the cross-hairs via the turrets TO the POI. It's usually trial and error, 2 clicks at a time, or 1 at a time, until I start hitting within a 1/4 inch of where I intended.

What I still can't understand, is why the turrets move in opposite directions. Like down is actually up, and left is right. A few times I've accidentally move the turrets the opposite way, and then I'm too left, or too right, and then I have to dial it back in, 1 click at a time, and if you miss at 100 yards, it's not always easy to tell exactly how far off you were.

Case in point: https://s31.postimg.cc/75wg5oryx/22_Mag_at_50_yards.jpg See the top line, the right most circular target with the 4 shots in it?

I placed the first 2 just outside the bullseye, the range officer tried 2 shots with my rifle when he was walking by the bench I was on. He placed the next 2 shots high, and couldn't for the life of him figure out why. He said, "Oh god, I'm a MUCH better shot than that". He shoots out to 400-600 yards with creedmore, so this was awful to him.

But this also happens to me regularly. I dial the scope in, exactly where I want it, then it changes, slightly, or sometimes more. It's never predictable or repeatable. The 3 targets on the bottom line, left, were intentional. I was trying to shoot a group for reference, in case the bullet didn't impact where I wanted, I'd at least be able to see WHERE and how FAR it went from where I was aiming, and still have room on the target to take a few more shots to refine the group.

Do you see the first TOP LEFT bullseye? The one in the red was intentional, — after I had dialed the scope in by 1 click, then another. It'll shoot that way for awhile, but then you'll get ones that are high and right for no apparent reason. When this happens, I'll usually stick a few potatoes onto the target board, knowing that if I hold bottom and left, at about 7 o' clock, I'll get every single one. Then it changes, sometimes low, sometimes a higher and right shot - ammo, or me, or both? I'm learning how crucial trigger squeeze is, and stillness — absolute stillness.

Having said that, I could PULL the trigger in some cases with this new Deadshot front rest, the support under the fore-end is amazing, and you don't even really need a rear rest, you can just shoulder it.

Despite it not being a tack driver, I absolutely love shooting this Henry, and I love 22 mag. God it's fun.

[markiver54]

My first rifle is about 50 yrs old. My Dad bought it for me when entering NRA sanctioned training and competetive shooting. It is a Savage/ Anschutz model Mark 10 A 22lr. I believe it is considered a youth model. Has always been a tack driver and I still love it. ( mint condition ). Certainly does not feel like a youth model as it fits me perfectly. Has high peep sites and front sight with inserts in spring loaded cylinder. I had bought a Nikon 3-9 x 40 scope for my BB 357 but opted for a different scope. Have not yet returned the Nikon yet so was thinking about putting it on the S/A 22 lr. Any thoughts or info on this old rifle would be appreciated. Will try to post pics later, but my tablet is going dead at the moment.

[North Country Gal]

The Mark 10s came in a variety of actions and, therefore, triggers. If yours has an adjustment on the trigger, it's likely a 64 action and, therefore, a real keeper. The best Anschutz action is the 54, but the 64 actions and triggers aren't far behind. My Anschutz Exemplar pistol, for instance, is built on a 64 action. I like to joke that it's my most accurate 'rifle", but it's really not that much of an exaggeration. Anyway, hang on to your S/A. You'd pay a hefty price replacing it with a current production Anschutz. Note I said Anschutz, not Savage. The only thing Savage about those old Savage/Anschutz rimfires was that Savage was the importer.

[markiver54]

20181127_125739.jpg

As always, thank you NCG. Yes, mine does have an adjustable trigger. Wish I could get a close pic, but there is a thin screw going from front to rear with a small nut behind the trigger.

20181126_222337.jpg

Sorry, don't know why pics are upside down.

[Mags]

.
Details on why here: http://henryrifleforums.com/viewtopic.p ... =20#p64075

Hold your phone with the camera lens to the left and the home button to the right when taking a picture. The picture should then post right side up. Using your phone camera in any other orientation, the pictures may be rotated or upside down.

To fix photos, you'll need to down load them to a computer and use the photo editing software to rotate them into the correct orientation. Then repost them.

.... Sorry, don't know why pics are upside down.

[North Country Gal]

Looks good on that S/A. Those sights are actually worth quite a bit, now. The open sights on my Exemplar bring an easy $100 when you can find them, but that's not often. Hang on to those sights.

[markiver54]

First off, thank you Mags. I use my Galaxy tablet to take my pic so that they are already there for me to post. I hold it horizontally for most of my pics. Maybe I just need to rotate 180 degrees next time. NCG, thank you again as well. WILL hang on to those sights! In the meantime, what are your thoughts on that Nikon 3-9 x 40 scope that I still have in the box?. It's the Buckmaster II model. Can still return it if need be. Thought it might be ok for the rim fire.

[Mags]

.
Please do that. We can then include that information in the photo testing topic.

... I hold it horizontally for most of my pics. Maybe I just need to rotate 180 degrees next time.

[North Country Gal]

You're welcome.

The issue with using standard big game scopes for rimfire work is parallax, the apparent movement of the crosshair off the target when you move your head. This happens anytime you use a non adjustable objective/side focus scope at a distance other than the factory set perfect focus distance. This factory set perfect focus at a particular distance for the sake of minimizing parallax is what distinguishes a rimfire scope from a big game scope. Rimfire scopes are focused at the factory to be parallax free at 50 or 60 yards (some rare exceptions a touch beyond), depending on make and model. Big game scopes are set to be parallax free anywhere from 100 to 150 yards, depending on the make and model.

This does not mean you can't use a scope like your Buckmaster for rimfire work. It just means you'll have to deal with the parallax issue. Note that, although it may seem counter-intuitive, parallax is going to be more serious at close distances rather than way out there. For a big game scope with a parallax setting of 150 yards, the error due to parallax is negligible for big game hunting way out there at 500 yards. On the other hand, that same scope will have a significant amount of parallax error at 10 yards.

A fun way to demonstrate this is to close one eye, then hold your thumb up about 6 inches from your face. Then open that eye and close the other one. Repeat rapidly, switching eyes. Note the apparent distance the thumb seems to move. Then repeat the procedure with your arm fully extended. Even with such a minimal change in distance, you'll see your thumb appears to move more when it's closer to your eye.

You can also check parallax error easily with your gun at the range. Place your gun solidly on a rest, with the crosshairs centered on the target. Then move your head right and left and note how far the crosshairs move off that target. That's your parallax error potential. It's also the proper way to focus you AO or SF scope to eliminate parallax, because the marking on an AO scope for yardage are an approximation, not a perfect indicator of focus.

With your Nikon on a rimfire, then, all depends on the distance you'll be shooting. At 50 yards, won't be much of an issue, unless you're shooting for the absolute smallest possible group. On the other hand, parallax on such a scope will be a serious issue at 25 yards and especially at 16 yards. Note that parallax can be eliminated as an issue on any scope and gun combo IF you can place your eye in EXACTLY the same spot for each and every shot. This, of course, is easier said than done. Pretty much all but impossible to do on a stock that does not allow for a solid cheek rest, as per most lever guns.

Some types of scopes offer parallax adjustments for the sake of their intended use. Varmint scopes typically have parallax adjustments via an adjustable objective or side focus because the targets will be very small and even a small amount of parallax can cause a miss. Air guns scope almost universally have AOs or SFs, too, because they are used at such close ranges.

Hope this helps.

[markiver54]

Helps very much. Your detailed and educated... ( never in question ) answers and descriptions actually answerd a few questions I might have asked in the future especially re: parallax which I admittedly have not quite understood up to now. We should all be thankful for you sharing your wealth of info NCG. Now that I'm retired I have time to be seeking info that I did not try as much to focus on because of long work hours. AHAAA! time for me now. Your profile shoes retired ,yet you keep teaching...CUDOS!!