CZ 455 Varnint, .17 HRM Trigger upgrade?

[henry22]

Another CZ question for the 455. I want to have the stock trigger adjusted, or replaced altogether. I'd like to know if anyone here has done it to their CZ?

I have noticed in the last few sessions with this rifle at the range, that there is to much creep, a hair of grittiness, and not enough ease of pull. It's not bad by any means, but even my Henry with a heavier trigger pull has absolutely no creep, and breaks very cleanly.

I saw a kit that ships from within Canada, called the YODAVE kit for CZ's 452, 455: https://www.yodaveproducts.com/

Does anyone have any info on this kit, or have they simply adjusted the stock trigger on their own?

Thanks.

[North Country Gal]

All I've ever done to our 455s is replace the stock trigger spring with an ACE Hardware #144 spring or similar, trimming the spring as needed. In most cases, just doing that got rid of any creep. Very easy and effective fix.

Here's the 455 trigger (same as a 452, by the way). Best way to replace the spring is knock out one of the two top pins that attaches the trigger to the receiver, the one on the right. This pin is usually very easy to punch out. The other option is to punch out that pin on the trigger blade that holds the spring assembly, but this pin can be very tough to remove on some guns.

[henry22]

NCG, above and beyond removing the creep and grittiness, did the #144 spring result in a lighter and smoother trigger pull?

Is there any part of the sear my gunsmith could polish - delicately, to ease the pre-travel, grittiness?

Sorry, edit: Found this, https://ibin.co/40dkhcMNIw9L.jpg are the spring dimensions going to be any issue?

I didn't think to ask or test the trigger weight when I bought the rifle. I'm assuming it's 3lbs-ish, maybe a hair more? Ideally, I'd love to get it down to 1 pound, or maybe 1.5 pounds, as long as it can pass the bump test.

I'm getting REALLY picky here, but when I fire the Henry, there's absolutely no vibration, or shock in the trigger, loop of lever, grip or stock. It's a very dense and solid CLICK. With the CZ, I always feel this vibration when the firing pin strike — whether it's a live round or dry fired. I feel it vibrating though the stock, the trigger, grip etc in either case. I wish it had that more dense feel of a strike.

I was debating that Timney trigger, but it's costly. Instead, I bought this DIP trigger guard, blued, polished and smooth, much nicer looking than the stock trigger guard. https://kinneysshootingsupply.com/colle ... gger-guard But maybe it was a dumb purchase. — Purely for feel and cosmetics.

Much thanks.

[bandit1250]

I will have to use NCG's photo for this. Go to the picture and on the left of the trigger use a feeler gauge between the action and under the hump on the trigger where the pin goes through. When you get the right feeler gauge thickness that takes the creep out you need a shim that thickness under that hump on the trigger between it and the action. I used air craft grade aluminum tape and cleaned the recess in the receiver where the tape goes with lacquer thinner. Don't use soft tape like duct tape as it will always be changing the creep felt. Usually about two or three thickness pieces. I cut mine to fit the full length and depth of the recess. It has been in my rifles since 2004 and never ever came loose or fell out. Very easy to do and is easy to take back out in a couple minutes if you ever want to go back to the original pull and creep if selling the rifle. Mine that I bench shoot are in the 8-10 oz. pull and creep free. My hunting guns are set for hunting type weights. I like this better than that kit they sell that you have to pound out that peened over front pin. I have tried some of the ones with kits in them and mine are better and cost nothing and easy to put back if desired later. You can also put the same thickness shim on both sides but I have some that don't have it both sides and never had a problem. A word of caution. When testing it for the sear to hold by the bump test use a rubber mallet on the back of the receiver while out of the stock and don't use the bouncing the stock butt on the floor as it can split the stock at the back of the receiver. If you get the sear to shallow the bolt will come out or can fire on closing. That is where filing on the sear for sear engagement can get you in trouble and have to buy a trigger or parts. Some make shims and glue them in but I have heard they fall out occasionally so the tape seems to hold better than the glue. Loc-tite would be better than the super glues. Fourteen years now for some of my 452's and still the same as when I put the shims in. Even if they would fall out you just go back to a creepy trigger and not a dangerous trigger. There is a sticky on rim fire central in the CZ/Brno on Poor mans trigger jobs for 452'-455 CZ's that has the steps for this work. I take at least 1 1/2 coils of the spring also. Still have plenty of spring to go back to tight again.

[North Country Gal]

To answer your question, yes, going lighter on the spring got rid of drag and grittiness in some cases. Not all, but enough to where I try the spring before doing anything else. Springs often have to be bent at one end for proper fit, but no big deal. The other option as bandit mentions is to clip coils off the factory spring. Have done that, too.

You can also stone or use very fine emery cloth (notice I did NOT say file) on the sear engagement surfaces and that also helps. I never remove metal from any sear/trigger interface, though. I know my limitations. Otherwise, follow bandit's steps, above, with the shims. Those are reversible.

'Be careful with the spring trick. You can get the pull down too light to be safe. Be sure to do a bump test.

Overall, though, our tuned CZs have the best target grade triggers of any rifles in our safe. The good thing is that springs are reversible, so if I wanted to carry one of these CZs in the field, I could increase the weight of pull, again, bu re-installing the factory spring.

In general, CZ rimfire actions are the easiest to tune actions of all rimfire actions I've messed with. That very simple and rugged design is really genius.

[henry22]

Yes, I agree, they are rugged and simple. The 455 and the others in the product line, even the 527, seem almost old school military in some way. They're handsome, rugged, basic, and they work so well, and mine is accurate as hell.

Thanks for the info. I'll probably ask the gunsmith to use emery cloth, and I'll just use the Yodave Kit. It's only $18 bucks CDN, I can stomach that.